Bags - history, types, photos, instructions, characteristics
From the emergence of
bags bags, like any design items, tell us not only about the level of technical progress, but also about the lifestyle and psychology of various social groups. According to psychologists, the character of a woman can tell her bag. A small, tightly packed handbag in the neighborhood of a plastic bag speaks of the mistress's faint imagination. Large bags are worn by ladies, prone to pessimism. Bright bags are preferred by frivolous, but fantasy-laden women. An old, worn, dirty or torn bag in the hands of an elegant lady is a sign of a complete lack of logic or a lot of problems with external well-being.
The appearance of the bag is associated with the need to carry a variety of small items that should not bind hands. For example, Roman citizens in the folds of the toga had a special pocket, the so-called sine, where they deposited money and other items. And the women of Ancient Greece used small elegant pouch-pouches, which in the XIX century, in the era of fascination with classical costume, served as a prototype of a women's handbag.
In African nations, bags were given a magical meaning. So, in Tuareg Saharan bags - amulets-amulet, which contains spells for all cases of a hard life of a nomad.
In Europe, bags are beginning to be used since the XI century. At that time they were small purse-bags, attached to the belt, in which noble ladies and gentlemen put small coins for alms. These bags are called laumoniere( coin).
Bags-tobacco pouches were a part of a man's suit. Depending on the rank and property status of their owner, these bags were made from a simple cloth, soft goatskin, suede, cloth, brocade, ornately embroidered with embroidery, pearls, multi-colored beads, etc.
In the XIII century.along with pendant bags appear and hand, mostly flat, square or rectangular with handles of embroidered cord, which served as a case for prayer books. Bags were embroidered with silk, gold and silver threads, decorated with small bells and brushes.
Until the XV century. The bags were mostly used by merchants and money changers. An indispensable attribute of their costume was a large belt pouch. Also, wallet bags were also known in Russia.
In the XV century.the role of the bag in the suit is changing. Begin to distinguish between women's and men's bags. The bag becomes an object popular in all walks of life. Women wear bags in the form of soft purses, embroidered with silk, hung on a long cord or chain to the waistband.
Men's bags were made of coarse leather, they were fastened to the belt with leather hinges, on the back of the bag there was a loop into which a dagger was inserted.
In France XIV and XV centuries. A pouch for money was a part of the toilet of the courtiers. The late Gothic fashion envisaged whole collections of bags of different sizes worn on the belt, while the coins in them rang. In addition, a bunch of keys, a small folding knife and a perfume bottle were attached to the belt.
Bags attached to the belt, preserved in the Renaissance.
At the beginning of the XVI century.there were bags with frame locks, the designs of which have survived to this day.
In the XVII century.in Europe, in connection with the appearance of pockets in men's and women's clothing, men stopped wearing bags attached to the belt.
In the XVII century.the Marquise de Pompadour invented a handbag called "reticule"( from the French reticule - a ladies' bag or net).It was a soft purse made of velvet and lace, richly decorated. Entered into fashion in the middle of the XVIII century.reticule to the beginning of the XIX century.was simply irreplaceable, because the narrow "antique" dresses of that time did not provide for pockets and hide all sorts of ladies' trivia( as well as love letters), there was nowhere. For walks and visits there are reticuli made of expensive furs, embroidered with silver or gold or made entirely of silver or gold chain mail. They were carried in their hands, fastened to their waists, hung around their necks.
Ridicule was fashionable until the 19th century.
At the beginning of the XIX century. The bag becomes an essential element of the female toilet. Female ladies' bag, which gradually returns to its old name "reticule", becomes the leader among bags.
In the 1930s.in fashion, simple, bulky and durable bags of leather, and the word "reticule" goes out of use, acquiring a certain shade of absurdity, although now in many stores, boutiques, at exhibitions, you can find this name in the list of leather goods.
Bag groups
1. Business bags .The design is very strict. The sizes range from medium to large. Fittings - in the minimum amount. Material - genuine leather, magnificent plastic. Models - bags, bag-briefcases, briefcases, diplomats. Styles are classic or urban.
2. Output bags .Design - from classic to completely modern. Dimensions - from small to medium. Fittings - no restrictions, decorations are possible( applique, embroidery, etc.).Models - a ladies' bag, a theatrical handbag, a "bentel"( a small elegant handbag) and many others. Style - any, except city and sports.
3. Road bags of .Design all sorts( depending on the style of the suit and the purpose of the trip).Dimensions - from medium to very large. Fittings - purely functional, discreet. The material is from impregnated fabric to natural leather. Models - bags, bag-trunks, cases, suitcases, carpet bags. Styles - from classical to sports.
4. Youth bags .Design - any except strict. Dimensions - from small to medium. Models - a backpack, a bag, a briefcase, a bag-pouch. Fittings - according to the principle "who is in that much."Material - fabrics, tapestries, impregnated fabrics, leatherette, less often - genuine leather. Style - any, except urban and classical.
5. Special bags .Bags for special applications.
If we talk about classics on a world scale, then the following fact is generally accepted: a far from conservative Europe prefers only four models of bags for more than 40 years( since 1955).This is a "bagong"( a small leather boulevard), a "caravel"( a bag in a sporting style, the shape of which corresponds to the name), a "grande poronta"( rectangular boule with brass locks) and "suzanne"( a suitcase with retro style, in the manner of a bag).
The nature of the owner of the handbag
The world knew a lot of famous women who were fans and real collectors of handbags. The famous Edith Piaf, for example, appreciated the bags made according to the sketches of Coco Chanel. Despite the fact that Edith was one of the most progressive and free in the tastes of French women, she assured that "to go out into the street or into the theater without a handbag for a woman is similar to the appearance in public barefoot."
If the fashion designers claim that the bag is a necessary subject of a ladies' toilet, then psychologists can tell about the nature of the owner of the handbag, looking at the shape of the bag and how the lady wears it.
A big strong bag is preferred by active women.
A strict portfolio-type bag is chosen by ladies both active and able to combine work with useful entertainments. Specials of this type dress elegantly, but strictly.
A small-sized thin leather bag for a spoiled lady who does not bother with careful job performance, is often distracted by extraneous pursuits.
A small bag without a handle usually holds only keys, money and a small set of cosmetics. Alas, her miniature functions speak of the limitations of her who wears it.
To learn more about the hostess of the bag, pay attention to how a woman holds a favorite object.
A woman carries a handbag by the handle, and her hand is freely lowered along the body. This indicates the restraint of character, well-being and punctuality of the hostess.
The bag hangs on the arm bent at the elbow. If the hand is at the waist level, this indicates the prudence of the lady, her business. If the hand is raised to the shoulder - the woman is brave, active and meets difficulties with an open visor. She is sociable, but very afraid of loneliness.
The lady casually holds the bag at one end. The hostess is too self-confident person, indifferent to the opinion of others and ready to swim against the current.
The hand is passed through the handle of the bag and pressed to the heart. A typical gesture of mistrust, disguised as ease. A woman is not generous.
The belt of the bag is thrown over the shoulder. If the hand is lowered along the body, this is a sign of shyness and uncertainty. If the lady wanders at ease while walking, this indicates her cheerful nature.
Bag under the mouse. Her owner is closed and shy, but has an independent and emotionally stable character.
After acquainting yourself with the research of professionals, take a closer look at yourself and your associates and confirm or disprove these statements.
A small women's bag is placed two monuments. One of them is in the Australian city of Melbourne, in The Public Purse. The second - on the bank of the canal near the museum of the Welsh County Pope in the UK.The local sculptor Andy Hancock, after the exhibition N.M. - Handbag Memorabilia - created a real work of art - a wooden handbag covered with scales from small blue metal glitter-plaques, which are often decorated with evening models.
Materials for handbags
Fabrics are generally classified according to the industry characteristic for cotton, linen, woolen, silk. This feature is based on the type of fiber being processed.
The term "fabric" is usually referred to as a textile product, measured by the appropriate measure( length, width, area).The fabric is produced on a loom of two mutually perpendicular strands: a base running along the fabric, and a weft across the fabric. The corresponding threads are called basic and weft. Interlacing of filaments is one of the main indicators of the structure of tissues. The warp and weft threads are consistently intertwined with each other in a certain order( depending on the minimum thread body - the rapport required for the finished weaving pattern).This affects the formation of tissue with a characteristic for this interlacing structure, appearance, properties. The number of patterns of weaving is very large. Let's name only the basic: simple or smooth - linen, twill, satin, satin;special small-bore - fine-grained, diagonal, matting;coarse - jacquard( fabrics with a large pattern in the form of patterns and flowers, etc.);pile - weft weave( semi-velvet, corduroy);foundation( velvet, plush);two-layered - two separate cloths are formed, located one above the other and connected to each other by one of the systems of threads that form these webs, or a special thread from the base and the weft( wear-resistant and heat-insulating thin-cloth fabrics such as drape and some types of silk).
The raw material for fabric production is fiber of natural, artificial and synthetic origin.
Natural fibers are plant( cotton, linen, hemp, jute) and animal origin( animal wool, silk from silkworm cocoons).
Artificial fibers are obtained from natural polymers - cotton, wood and other cellulose, vegetable or milk proteins - by their special chemical treatment.
Synthetic fibers - high polymer substances - polymers obtained by synthesis from low-molecular substances( phenol, ethylene, acetylene, methane, etc.).
Yarns are produced from fibers, which can be combed, carded, hardware.
Combed yarn is made from long-staple cotton, long wool of various kinds. It differs smoothness, evenness and strength. Fabrics from this yarn are very pleasant to the touch, soft, elastic, do not crumple, especially from combed woolen yarn.
Carded yarn is produced from fibers( cotton, wool) of shorter length, which are processed in various ways( excluding combed ones).The fabric of this yarn is strong, elastic, but of unequal evenness, differs a little fuzzy.
On a hardware spinning system, a soft, fluffy yarn is obtained that does not differ in uniformity. From the hardware yarn thick-saber and coarse-woven fabrics for winter use are made( flannel, paper, cloth coats, etc.).
Cotton fabrics
Cotton fabrics are used for a wide range of garments. Basically, these are classical homogeneous fabrics made from cotton. Along with them, cotton fabrics with the addition of viscose, polnose, lavsan, nitron fibers and cotton yarn with a viscose and nylon complex yarn are becoming increasingly popular.
Cotton fabrics have a number of positive properties: significant strength, sufficient resistance to bending. The resistance of cotton fabrics to abrasion is less than that of synthetic fibers.
Cotton fabrics include calico, calico, tights, as well as underwear, clothing, lining and pile fabrics.
Denim fabrics are produced with a twill weave of single-stranded carded yarn dyed in the base and harsh in the weft. Along with the classic denim fabric, denim fabrics are produced with colored threads forming a pattern in a strip or cage. For the production of denim fabrics, yarn with the addition of lavsan fibers, as well as viscose-lavsan fiber, is used.
Jeans fabric is increasingly used to make bags that play the role of both costume elements and a separate accessory.
Cotton fabrics are also cloth, velveton, suede, etc.
Linen fabrics
There are linen fabrics for household use, technical and curtains. The volume of production of household goods is constantly increasing due to the reduction in the production of technical fabrics made from linen fibers and the replacement of fabrics or nonwoven cloths from chemical fibers and other materials. The production of linen fabrics is expanding due to the use of katunina( modified linen fiber).
Linoleum fabrics are woolen and have a beautiful appearance, they have considerable form stability and are well folded, resistant to abrasion. These tissues are prone to peeling.
Linen form-resistant fabrics with expressive surfaces are produced, plastic fabrics with various patterns of interlacing, including openwork, imitating shoe, with the effect of false stitches, with jacquard patterns simulating the effect of squeezing.
Linen fabrics have many advantages, but they also have drawbacks. These fabrics crumple and sit heavily. Therefore, before opening, they should be soaked, dried, and then re-moistened and ironed properly.
Linen fabrics include: kolomenok, matting, jeans of increased strength of twill weaves, variegated with relief pattern in the form of strips and cages, with a two-sided pattern, harsh edges, with low-shrinkage finish.
The nature of the weave of threads in linen fabrics can be used to decorate a bag with a cross-stitch, embroidered cross-stitch.
Woolen fabrics
Woolen fabrics for clothing, for household purposes, depending on the type of yarn used and the way of production are divided into worsted( combed), fine-grained, coarse-grained.
For the production of woolen fabrics, yarn made of fine, semi-fine, semi-coarse and coarse wool( sheep, camel), secondary( restored) wool, invert and wax of wool production is used for the production of woolen fabrics. When developing half-woolen fabrics, cotton yarn and threads of chemical fibers, semi-woolen yarn of a mixture of fibers( wool, cotton, viscose, lavsan, kapron, etc.) are used.
Wool fabrics include: classic twilled weave fabrics called cashmere, light tualli, boston, crepe, tights, chevlot, diagonal, flannel, gabardine, koverkoty, drapes, pure woolen cloth, castor, rantine, etc.
Currentlymany clothing designers supplement their collections of woolen fabric suits with accessories made of tweed( tweed bags with leather trim).
Silk fabrics
The silk industry produces fabrics made of natural and chemical fibers, yarns and yarns from a mixture of chemical fibers with cotton( at least 50%), from chemical fibers and their mixtures in the base and chemical fibers in the weft. The main part of the issue is made up of classic crepe fabrics for the group: crepe de chine, crepe-chiffon, crepe-georgette.
The subgroup of jacquard fabrics includes satin, damask and other fabrics made from raw silk, silk yarn or fine twist yarn with Jacquard weave.
Subgroup of pile fabrics is represented by velvet, produced from natural silk yarn. Pile short, up to 2 mm.
Silk fabrics also include: velvet velvet, velor-velvet etching, lining fabrics;with the addition of metallized yarns: plastlex, methanite, lurex, moire, taffeta, etc. These kinds of fabrics are traditionally used for making handbags for evening dresses and wedding dresses.
Felt
In recent years, mixed fabrics called cloaks have spread. And although the name is one, but the fibrous composition of these materials is very diverse. The most popular blends of cotton with synthetics.
Cloak fabrics are produced mainly from kapron and lavsan complex yarns.
This type includes thin fabrics with "lazh" finish and thickened atlases, as well as the types of gabardine and poplin, with light linen filling, light fabrics with multicolored pattern in the cage and with printed pattern. Such fabrics are very suitable for the production of sports bags.
Lining materials
Lining in the product plays an important role, it improves its aesthetic performance, extends the life of the product.
Ready-made lining fabric made from chemical fibers and yarns are made from viscose yarns in warp and weft;from viscose filaments in the base and acetate or triacetate filaments in the weft;viscose yarns in the base and viscose or cotton yarn in the duck;of polyester yarns in the base and weft;kapron threads in the base and polyester in the weft.
On the basis of artistic and aesthetic characteristics, lining fabrics made of chemical yarns and yarns must correspond to standard samples, and according to physical and mechanical parameters, the requirements specified in GOST 20272-96.
Genuine leather
Genuine leather is obtained from the skins of some animal species. The technological process of processing hides is composed of a variety of physical and physicochemical operations, which are usually divided into three groups: preparatory, tanning and finishing.
The skin is classified:
- by age of the animal: residue - skin of the unborn animal;opyek - the skin of the newborn;outgrowth - the skin of a three-month-old animal;nebulous - the skin of a six-month;half-cot - one-year-old;
- for the quality of dressing: Moroccan marken - from a weakly bred goat;shagreen - soft rough goat or sheepskin;parchment - veal leather, used in raw form;yuft - the skin of a horse, a deer or a pig, tanned by a willow bark, is on average 3 mm thick or more;
- by type of raw material: husk - thin elastic skin from the residue or sediment, there are no large sizes;chevron and goat - from goat skins;shevrit - of sheepskin, less elastic than chevrove;velor - chrome tanned leather, polished on the front;suede - from the skin of an elk, a wild goat or a deer, on the front side there are large pores, it is light, soft, stretches strongly;spilk - a layer separated from natural suede, made by a twinning machine.
Synthetic leather
The main types of artificial leather are the materials that form the basis( fabric, knitted or non-woven fabric), coated( or impregnated) with a polymer or a polymer composition.
For soft artificial leather, abbreviated names are set and the term "deceit" is adopted. The purpose of the skin( dressing, haberdashery, upholstery, etc.) and the abbreviated name of the polymer from which it is produced are specified( polyvinyl chloride - vinyl, rubber - elasto, polyamide - amide, nitrocellulose - nitro, polyesterurethane - urethane, etc.)..At the end of the name, the letters denote the type of the base( T - fabric, TP - knitwear, NT - non-woven fabric).
Artificial suede is produced by applying fibers to the surface of the substrate by an electrostatic method. The peculiarity of the technological process is that the fibers of a small size, having received a charge of a certain sign, are oriented in the high voltage field in the required direction and are strictly applied vertically to the surface of the substrate covered with an adhesive composition and having a charge of the opposite sign. As a result, a sufficiently strong connection of the fibers of the pile with the adhesive base is obtained and a sueded surface is formed. As a basis, fabrics, knitted fabrics, non-woven fabrics and other materials are used;for the application of pile apply glue on the basis of polyurethane, polyvinyl chloride, epoxy resins, glue-melt.
Natural fur
Fur hide was the first material that a person used as clothing and for decorating his home. Millennia passed, and natural fur did not lose its importance as one of the main materials for making clothes and various household items. Thanks to good heat-protective properties, high wear resistance and beautiful appearance, natural fur is widely used today for making clothes of various kinds, for decorating and decorating garments, footwear, leather goods, and decoration accessories.
Artificial fur
Artificial fur is widely used in the manufacture of various products. This is because it has a beautiful appearance and has a set of properties that make it possible to make from it garments of high quality and for different purposes. Artificial fur is used as the main material, decoration.
In its structure it resembles a natural one and consists of ground and nap. The ground is the basis of the fur, the fibers of the pile are fixed in it. Pile - fibrous cover - depending on the method of production, the type of threads and fibers used, and the purpose of the fur can be uniform and heterogeneous in the length and thickness of the fibers that form it, according to the density of their arrangement. The height of the pile of artificial fur can be from a few millimeters to several centimeters.
By the way of production, we distinguish woven, knitted, overhead( with glued pile) and tufted( fabric) artificial fur.
The quality of artificial fur is assessed by the indices of the main properties of pile and ground. The main characteristics of the pile are: the thickness of the fibers and fibers forming the pile, their height, density, the angle of inclination of the fibers of the pile, the content of loose fibers, the pileability of the pile, its color, etc. For ground, the breaking load and tensile elongation are important quality characteristics.
A method for manufacturing artificial fur with the use of fibers of natural wool has been developed. To obtain such a fur, a wool fleece with a hair height of 15-16 mm is applied to the base( fabric or artificial leather), which is obtained by shearing fur sheepskin skins having a hair height of at least 35 mm. The cut fleece with the preservation of its configuration is transferred to the base, pre-greased with glue. The resulting fur is used as an independent material and as a finish.
Film materials
Polyvinyl chloride and polyethylene films are mainly used.
Polyvinyl chloride film is produced either by roller-calender or extrusion( methods - sleeve or flat-slit) methods. The first method allows the production of films with a thickness of 0.3-0.8 mm. The second method produces thinner films.
Polyvinyl chloride films are strong enough, odorless, resistant to oxidants, acids and alkalis.
Films are produced in a smooth, embossed, printed pattern. When embossed, an imitation of the surface of the fabric or skin is obtained. Using finishing compositions, films with pearlescent, silver or golden tint are produced, etc.
Plastic
Plastic for making bags is used relatively recently, it is made of cosmetic bags, children's bags, it is used in the manufacture of covers for cell phones. The plastic itself is a soft, homogeneous, smooth and elastic material; when folded, it does not leave any creases, it is strong enough and often completely transparent. The work is simple, does not require the processing of slices, there is no clearly expressed front and back sides, when manufacturing plastic products, you can do without the use of cushioning and lining materials. Plastic perfectly holds the shape of the bag, so it does not sew bags.
A negative factor in the manufacture of plastic products is the restriction in the choice of fittings - it is undesirable to put punch hardware on plastic( such a bag will be less durable).
When folding plastic stitch is laid once, it can be braided under the skin or subjected to perforation.
Work with plastic has some special techniques:
- cutting is performed on the board with a cutting knife or scalpel( scissors are undesirable in order to avoid the formation of burrs when cutting);
- you can straighten the jammed plastic by holding it for 2-3 minutes in hot water;
- the patterns are attached with an adhesive tape and are wound with a ballpoint pen( not gel);
- if you need to fasten the parts before tightening, use paper clips.
The plastic parts are pulled from the plastic on the sewing machine by needles No.80, 90 using conventional cotton threads in the tone of the bake or the line.
Baku in the processing of slices used to give a qualitative appearance of the seam and a more solid connection of parts. The product is made by seams outwards, so the bake can be a decor. For joining plastic parts, perforation, i.e., braiding, can be used. To do this, you need a punch and multi-colored laces.
Plastic can be combined with other plastic, vinyl, artificial and natural leather, denim. Instead of plastic, you can use reinforced or unreinforced film - it looks amazing, the principle of operation is the same as with plastic.
Cushioning materials
Cushioning materials are used, firstly, to impart a certain shape and preservation to the parts( side fabrics) and, secondly, to harden the parts of the product and to protect them from abrasion.
Linings, half woolen fabrics, cotton fabrics and non-woven fabrics are used as packing board materials.
In addition to airborne liners, airborne woven fabrics are produced, such fabrics are produced from cotton yarn at the base and horsehair or kapron monofilament in the duck. The onboard hair fabrics are characterized by the raised rigidity and elasticity.
Non-woven glued linens GOST 25441-90, linen boards GOST 5665-77 have been developed.
Sewing threads
In the sewing industry, sewing threads are mainly used for bonding parts of products. The industry produces sewing threads for various purposes: clothing, embroidery, knitting, shoe, surgical, etc.
The fibrous composition of sewing thread can be cotton, synthetic, made of natural silk, linen.
Cotton and synthetic yarns are produced in accordance with GOST 6309-93.
Cotton for the manufacture of articles made from woven and non-woven materials is produced by matte and glossy grades: "Extra", "Prima" in three additions, "Sturdy" in 4 and 6 additions.
Symbol( trading numbers) of the strings "Extra", "Prima" in three additions-10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 80;thread "Strong" in four additions - 30, 50, 60, 80;Strong "in six additions - 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 80.
Synthetic threads for the manufacture of articles made from woven and non-woven materials have the following conventions: reinforced with cotton braid - 25 LX, 36 LH, 44LH( in two additions);reinforced with polyester braid - 25 LL, 35 LL, 45 LL( in two additions);of complex polyester yarns - 22 L, 30 L, 33 L, 37 L, 47 L, 55 L( in two or three additions);from complex polyamide yarns - 50 K( m)( in three additions);of polyamide textured yarns - 24 LTL, 37 LT( in two additions).
Threads produce right and left directions, final twist, one-knit and two-roll.
For the quality of finishing and coloring, the threads must comply with GOST 15007-88.
Yarn from natural silk is produced from raw silk, which is subjected to two successive torsion processes in the directions S and Z with the appropriate addition of threads, according to GOST 1674-77 and GOST 22665-83.
Linen one-knit, one-woven linen with chemical fibers and multi-threaded flax threads, intended for the manufacture of technical and household products, are covered by GOST 14961-91.
Picking up the material, take a good look at what it can offer you, what attracted you to it and how you can emphasize its attractiveness.
Today the fashion is increasingly evolving theme of decorative effects due to the connection of fabrics of different textures in one product. And then there are their own rules: two materials are not combined with any remarkable textures, for example a boucle and a fabric with a pile, corduroy with a characteristic surface "in the hem" and, say, a fabric with a patterned dressing. On the contrary, only a smooth environment emphasizes the expressiveness of a particular texture.
Hardware and tools
Sewing man has been engaged since ancient times. Even at the dawn of its development, people sewed themselves clothes from the skin of animals with the help of bone needles and tendons of animals( as threads).Then the bone needle was replaced with a metal one, and threads began to be used instead of the veins.
But even after the appearance of weaving, fabric sewing has been done manually for many centuries.
At the beginning of the XIX century.attempts were made to speed up the process of making clothes, there were the first, still very imperfect devices for sewing the fabric.
In 1830, the tailor of Paris, Timonier, invented the first sewing machine, which he sold to the owner of the sewing workshop of Decollete.
By the middle of the XIX century.already several inventors have received patents for sewing machines of various designs. By this time the German-born Singer, having bought all the patents for sewing machines, together with his partner Dark in 1854, founded a company in the US to produce sewing machines.
The company quickly developed, opened several branches in different countries, including Russia. The sewing machine factory built by Singer in Podolsk, near Moscow, in 1902 gave the first production.
Currently, the plant produces several types of household and a large number of industrial sewing machines.
Almost every family currently has a sewing machine that, despite the huge production of ready-made garments, still remains a necessary and desired household item.
The main types of household sewing machines
Over the improvement of sewing machines hundreds of designers and inventors are constantly working in many countries. Therefore, all new and new designs are appearing, and the technological capabilities of machines are expanding.
Modern household machines allow not only to sew pieces of fabric, but also to sweep the crumbling slice, sew on buttons, get loops, darn, embroider and perform a whole series of various operations.
Depending on the degree of increase in technological capabilities and the complexity of the design, household sewing machines can be divided into the following types: lockstitch, simple zigzag, full zigzag, full zigzag with decorative and special stitches, continuous zigzag with programmed combined automatic control of needle mechanisms and engine fabrics.
Straight line machines. Machines of this type are the most common. They allow you to sew a straight two-line shuttle stitch. The actuator can be mechanical or electrical. For operational purposes, they are manufactured stationary and portable. Straight line machines have different designs, but their technological capabilities are almost identical. Machines of this type are very durable, reliable and do not require high qualification for working on them. With certain skills on lockstitch machines, it is possible to carry out many technological operations necessary for making bags at home( 2M or PMZ machines, Tikka Finland, Minerva).
Machines of simple zigzag .In these machines, in order to obtain a zigzag shuttle stitch of the needle together with the frame of the needle bar, an oscillatory motion is additionally communicated in a plane perpendicular to the direction of movement of the material.
Machines full zigzag. From simple zigzag machines, they are distinguished by a more complex zigzag mechanism, which allows the zigzag line to move to the left or right relative to the center of the needle groove( Veritas, Lada, Radon, etc.).
Proper maintenance of the machine is a guarantee of durability and reliable operation. Technical capabilities in the manufacture of products expand the use of special paws.
Paws with a linear needle guide for working with denim, leather, knitwear allow you to get a quality work and joy from work.
For the manufacture of various garments, including bags, you will need not only a sewing machine, but also some tools.
Tools
Tailor scissors - scissors for cutting fabrics( do not use for cutting paper, thread cutting).
Scissors for thread trimming - small scissors with sharp ends.
Set of needles for manual work - for each type of fabric( depending on the thickness) use a specific needle number.
Pins - necessary for chipping the parts before sweeping or stitching.
Ruler - better metal length of 15, 30, 50 cm.
In addition, you will need:
- tracing paper - for translating patterns;
- cardboard( can be a Whatman) - for making patterns;
- chalk tailor - for mismanaging patterns on fabric.
If you have all the attributes of sewing, you can safely proceed to the main task - the creation of a bag.
Finishing materials
Finishing materials include tapes, braids, cords, laces. By designation, the finishing materials can be divided into three groups: applied - tapes and braids, serving for edging and strengthening the edges of seams on the inner sections of products;decorative - applied - tapes, braid, cords, used for decorative edging of the outer edges of products;decorative - tapes, braid, cords, laces, performing aesthetic functions and serving as decorating elements.
Tapes are woven or knitted strips of different widths from kapron complex yarn, lavsan, nitron yarn or textured yarn.
To decorative tapes are:
- tape lacquer made of nylon thread, with an indelible shine, processed on hot calenders;they are used as finishing and fringing;
- finishing tapes of different widths, produced from viscose complex yarns with small-diameter and jacquard interlacing, often with multicolored patterns;used to decorate products;
- openwork ribbons made of nylon threads in the base and cotton or woolen in a weft or textured yarn;These tapes are produced with drawings that simulate shading;
- emblems - ribbons from viscose complex threads or viscose staple yarn with jacquard multicolored thematic drawings( anchors, beasts, geometric ornaments, sports subjects, etc.).
Braid is knitted and woven. Knitted braids of different widths are produced from staple, viscose, lavsan yarn and textured yarns on warp knitting and refining knitting machines. It can be smooth, dense and openwork, with an even edge and festoons. Smooth braid is used as a border, patterned - as a finish.
Cords can be woven, crocheted, twisted. Finishing braided cord - soutache. The soutache is one-and multi-colored, used for decoration.
Knitted cords have different widths and shapes, they are used for finishing. Sometimes the finishing cords include metallized strands.
Laces are called transparent mesh patterned yarn products, made by hand or by machine. Laces of handwork can be woven, sirloin( sewn) and knitted. Lace is used for finishing products.
Edge - a lace strip, smooth from the side, sewn to the material, and notched from the opposite side.
Outsole - a lace strip with even edges, sewn between two parts of the product.
The motif is a lace insert shaped like a square, an oval, a circle, etc.
Guipure( air embroidery) is obtained by embroidering cotton yarn over cotton cloth impregnated with aluminum salts, which after heat treatment and mechanical influences is removed. Guipure - lace heavy, massive, used for decoration.
Accessories
Fittings - auxiliary products required in the garment industry. The fittings include: buttons, zippers, buttons, hooks, buckles, etc.
Buttons perform aesthetic and utilitarian functions, being an element of both fasteners and decorative finishes.
There are buttons of the following types: on materials - plastic, metal, ceramic, combined;by fastening elements - with holes, with eyelet;By the method of manufacture - cast, pressed, mechanically processed, stamped, prefabricated;on finishing - without protective and decorative coating, embossed with foil.
The zipper consists of two belts with links connected when the lock moves. Metal zipper can be of four types: A - with one lock and one-piece stop;B - with two locks;B - with one lock and with a detachable limiter;G - with two locks, detachable.
Button - spring-loaded fastener. The design distinguishes buttons with an annular spring, with an omega-shaped spring, with a spring bush;on materials - steel, brass, combined;by type of coating - with nickel, with oxide, with brass, with paint and varnish.
Buckles, frames, rings are made of steel wire, tape or steel and brass sheets. They can be welded or not welded.
Textile clasp is a detachable joint consisting of two ribbons. The front side of one( loop) tape has closed loops formed of special monofilaments. On the front side of the other( hook) tape there are loops having a side cut, resulting in the formation of hooks from these loops. When connecting the loop and hook bands, the closed loops enter the side cuts of the loop loops and firmly connect to the hooks of these loops.
All kinds of fittings presented are widely used in the manufacture of bags of any purpose.
Create a sketch of a bag.
In 1928 at the exhibition "Artisan fabric and embroidery in a modern women's costume" N. Lamanova was presented a theoretical program of Soviet costume modeling, which was based on the unity of history and practice. The purpose of this program is the introduction of a costume appropriate to modern life, and the training of new artists. The basis of the concept in this program was the costume design model( scheme).
Diagram. Conceptual model of design by N. Lamanova
Using the costume design model for creating a bag model, you can get a good result and the habit of approaching each project from a scientific point of view.
Having learned a lot about the history of bags and materials used in their manufacture, having looked through and studied trends and trends of fashion, having analyzed your own style in clothes, you can start to make your own bag model.
Next, models of bags, patterns and technological sequence of bag making are offered. Models are considered from the easiest to the most sophisticated. After studying the practical part, you can develop your model( sketch), make patterns and, using the methods of processing studied, make an author's bag.
So, let's get started!
Bag "Housewife"
The model "Housewife" is made of raincoat, cloth for umbrellas or technical fabric( fig.), Has a rectangular shape.
For execution you will need 40 cm of fabric with a width of 150 cm.
The layout on the fabric is shown in Fig.
Fig.1 - handle, 2 - front, back, 3 - side, 4 - patch pocket
SEQUENCE OF MANUFACTURE OF THE BAG
Open the bag details according to the patterns. The allowance for the contraction of the lateral and lower cuts is 1 cm, the oversize allowance of the upper cut of the bag is 4 cm, the allowances for the processing of the handles are 1 cm. The pocket size is 18( width) x 20( height). See
Cut the upper section of the bag into a fold with a closed cut.
Prepare knobs and pocket.
- Press the knobs along the length in half( inside inside), sweep the allowances along the side cuts by 0.2 cm from the side edge of the handle, also make a stitch 0.2 cm from the other edge( Fig.).
- In the handles of the strength bag, a cotton textile tape or a strip of cotton cloth cut out along the share thread can be laid.
- Process the upper section of the pocket into a fold with a closed cut. Press( side-out) the allowances for the side and bottom cuts( Fig.)
Place the prepared pocket in the center of the front wall of the bag, 10 cm above the bottom cut. Tune the pocket on the front of the bag. If the fabric does not crumble along the cuts, it is possible to attach a 20x20 cm inner pocket part with the processed upper cut from the wrong side, the side and bottom remain untreated sections. The internal pocket is fixed at the same time as the upper pocket is attached.
Place the handles according to the markings, adjust 1 cm from the top of the handle, bend the handles, placing them upwards from the bag, and adjust 3 cm from the first line( fig.).
Simultaneously, place the side and bottom sections. Twist the corners of the bag so that it forms a bottom, and adjust( Fig.).The resulting triangles are fixed on the bottom of the bottom of the bag.
Bag "Window"
This bag model can be performed similarly to the previous one, but without a patch pocket. Instead of a pocket on the front of the bag carry a "window", the role of the glass in this case will perform an organza or plastic. On the organza you can arrange a butterfly, a bee, etc. The size of the bag can be changed at your discretion.
The procedure for making a "window" on the front wall is as follows. Mark the location of the rectangle 12x10 cm. In the center of the front wall of the bag, cut a rectangle 14x14 cm. Sweep the sections. Lay it on the planned rectangle on the front side, secure with pins or sweep. On the planned line to lay a line. Scissors carefully remove excess fabric inside the rectangle, leaving the allowance for the seam of 0.5 cm. In the corners, the allowance is cut, not exceeding 0.2 cm to the stitch. Thus, trim the rectangle. Straighten the wrap on the wrong side. Sweep, releasing the edging from the fabric of the front wall of the bag. Cut a rectangle of 14x14 cm from the organza. Gently reflow the slices with the flame of a match or a candle. Lay the organza from the wrong side, swirl to the obtack, then lay a line on the front side 0.2 cm from the processed edge of the "window"( Fig.).
If necessary, next to the first line, you can lay one or two( depending on the model) parallel to the first. From the wrong side, cut the organza and the stitching, if necessary, manually attach to the main fabric.
As a finishing option, a small bear cub or pupa can be inserted into the "window".This option is more suitable for a child. In this case, and sew a bag, and pick up a toy can be with the child, drawing him to the creative process.
In order for the bear cub to look out of the window, you need to put a pocket-briefcase from the wrong side, and a toy can fit in it. The pocket pattern is given in Fig.
Stitch darts in the bottom corners of the pocket. To spend it it is necessary the second line( the first line - настрачивание an organza).
Pitch the pocket on its front side( darts inside the pocket - fig.).
Bags on the lining.
Most bags are lined. This improves the appearance, hiding the inner processed side of the bag, allows you to place inside pockets( overhead, slotted with a zipper, slotted and overhead with a valve).
The bag model, the manufacture of which is described in this chapter, is simple in form, but is lined( pockets and fastener absent).This is a summer version of the bag. It can be made of any fabric with a pattern, with an interesting texture, from the technical, the details are duplicated by an adhesive pad to give the bag a more rigid shape.
Finishing can also be varied. On a monophonic fabric: appliqués, embroidery, hemming, tuned silk colored ribbons of various widths. When using a two-thread( cotton fabric), you can embroider a pattern in the technique of "cross".On a fabric with a color pattern, thermostrases( white, multicolored) can be glued in the cores of flowers.
The size of the bag can be chosen any.
SEQUENCE OF MANUFACTURING
Open the details of the bag from the main fabric according to the patterns. Cut one part of the lining of the bag, four parts of the patch pocket and the lining of the slotted pocket with a zipper( Fig.).Identify the location of the overlaid and slotted pockets.
Treatment of the patch pocket: the upper section of the pocket is processed into a fold with a closed cut( Fig.).
Fold the allowances for the side and bottom cuts by 1 cm.
Arrange the prepared pocket on the front side of the lining according to the notes and adjust.
Place the padding of the pocket on the front side of the bag underlayment.
Obtach entrance to the pocket on the frame, planned on the padding of the pocket. Cut the entrance into the pocket, not reaching the side of the frame 1 cm, cut into a corner, not reaching 0.2 cm to the corners of the frame.
Unscrew the pocket lining through the hole formed on the wrong side of the bag lining, straighten the frame( Fig.), Lay a string of lightning under it and adjust it along the contour using the presser foot to sew the braid( Fig.).The lower part of the padding of the pocket should be lifted upwards and connected along the cut with the upper cut of the lining, then the padding of the pocket along the side and top sections should be stuck( Fig.).
To decorate the front wall of the bag with embroidery, applique or adjust ribbons.
Assemble the bag from the main fabric according to the sequence. In this model, the upper section of the bag is not handled. It is marked or zautuzhivaetsya whole-piece wrapping bags.
Assemble the lining: fold the lining inward, stitch along the side and bottom sections of the bag, leaving a hole in the middle of the bottom seam.
Unscrew the bag inside out, put a lining in it( face with face).Obtach the upper section of the bag lining.
Through the left hole in the bottom turn the bag on the front side.
Stitch over the allowances left in the bottom hole.
Bag made of faux fur under canopy
Bag made of artificial fur under the caracul( fig.).
This model looks good, made of a smooth leopard-colored fur. Handbag is made on a lining. It is fastened with a textile fastener. On the front side of the valve is a decorative element( brooch, decorative button).
EDGE DETAILS
( enlarge the details shown on the diagrams in 3 times)
From the main fabric: 1 - the front( back) wall of the handbag - 2 children.(Fig.),
2 - valve - 2 children.(Fig.),
3 - the bottom, turning into a barrel - 1 child.(Fig.),
4 - handles - 2 children.(rectangle 43x6 cm), 5 - obtachka - 1 child.(rectangle 51x4 cm).
From the lining fabric: 1 - front( back) wall - 2 children, 3 - bottom - 1 child, 6 - pocket of the waybill( Fig.).
On the dash, the dotted line shows the possible parting of the part( for these sections add the allowance for grinding 1 cm, the seams are ironed), if the bag is made of pieces of fur, follow the direction of the pile.
SEQUENCE OF MANUFACTURING
Cut out the details of the handbag from the main fabric.
Cut out the glued gasket( according to the curves of the top, reducing by 0.5 cm from the cuts of the parts).
Duplicate the top details.
Manufacturing of the handle: bend the side cuts of the handle inward( 1 cm), fold the handle in half( inside the inside) and stick( 0.3 cm from the edge), as shown in the figure;
iron.
5. Tie the textile fastener to the sub-valve. Fold the valve and the valve face inward. To obtuse the valve of the bag with a subvalve.
Straighten to the front, sweep, iron( you can lay a stitch 1 cm from the edge of the valve).On the front wall, adjust the textile fastener by marking.
Fold the inside of the front wall and the bottom of the bottom of the barrel. Combine by dissection. Sweep away, melt.
Fold the rear wall and the bottom part of the bottom upside down. Combine by dissection. Sweep away, melt.
Attach the handle to the top slices of the side of the bag, by placing the front sides inside the bag. Remove the basting threads.
Attach the valve to the top section of the rear wall, laying face to face.
Stitch side cuts forming a circle. Press the seam. Sweep the obtacle to the upper sections of the bag, laying the inside sides( the seam of the stitching of the obtacle is located at one of the seams connecting the back wall and the barrel).Expand the fringe inside the bag, sweep, straightening the edge from the main parts. Press it. Remove the sewing threads. To adjust the allowance for obtachka( by obtachka), as shown in Fig., Line 2.
ASSEMBLY ASSEMBLY OF THE
BAG Open the lining over the templates of the top of the bag( exclude the handle templates and the subvalve, although the sub-valve can be made of a lining).
Cut the top section of the patch pocket into a fold with a closed cut( press 1 cm, bend another 1 cm, press, adjust to 0.8 cm from the edge).
Press the side and bottom allowances of the patch pocket.
Tune the pocket on the back of the lining( along the planned lines).
Sweep and then stitch the details of the front and back side of the lining of the bag with the bottom-barrel detail.
Remove the sewing thread.
Adhere the lining to the obtachle( fig., Line 3), combining the side seams, leave the area where the valve is located unattended. Unscrew the bag on the front side through the hole left. Attach manually the seam allowance of the lining to the wrapping of the bag( close the hole through which the bag was turned out after the lining is ground).
The bag is ready, now you can decorate it with a decorative clasp: from the front side on the valve( at the location of the fastener) we attach a brooch, decorative button or other finishing part.
Bride's handbag "Bride"
Bride handbag is a cute wedding accessory, it should not be conspicuous and distract attention from the wedding dress, it can fit a scarf and small necessary items, cosmetics. The handbag can additionally be decorated with flowers from fabric, beads, rhinestones, beads, glass beads, expensive lace.
When choosing the finishes the best advisor will be your imagination( and sense of proportion).
Handbag is made of dress material and decorated like a dress;it is worn, as a rule, on the wrist, covering with a bouquet of flowers( Fig.).
DETAILS FOR POY
From the main fabric: 1 - front wall - 2 children.(Fig.),
2 - the bottom, turning into a barrel - 1 child.(Fig.).
From lining: 1 - front wall - 2 children, 2 - bottom, turning into a flank - 1 year. .
When making patterns, add allowances to the seams: on the sides of 0,8-1 cm;on the top edge - 0,5-0,7 cm.
The lining should be made of fabric of the top or some other beautiful decorative fabric, in harmony with the material of the top, because it will be visible in the upper part of the purse.
If the fabric easily falls off in sections, it is necessary to sweep the sections of the parts.
Depending on the type of material( transparent or not, loose or dense, hard or soft), an adhesive pad is selected for the details of the handbag. If the properties of the fabric are allowed, the details do not duplicate.
A ready-made cord is used for the handles.
SEQUENCE OF MANUFACTURING
Open the details of the handbag.
Repeat if necessary.
If necessary, trim sections of parts.
Sweep and obtach the details of the bag from the material of the top Fig.between themselves. When pulling, leave the non-staggered areas in the area of the kuliska( 1.5 cm long at a distance of 2 cm from the top edge) for subsequent pulling of the handles. In these areas, allowances for the seams of the grinding of parts( pre-swept) are spread out on both sides of the seam and secure in this position with secret stitches.
Stitch the lining details, leaving the unaddressed area in one of the seams for the subsequent wringing of the handbag on the front side. Fold the details of the top and linings with the inside sides, equalize the slices and seams, trim the upper edge of the bag with a seam width of 0.5-0.7 cm. Turn the product over to the front side, straighten the seam, sweep it into a split, slightly press. Fix the seam grooving with a finishing stitch or with sweeping( secret) stitches, re-press. Connect the line of temporary use of the details of the top of the handbag and the lining between each other along the lines of lines, which eventually form a kuliska. The lines of temporary assignment must pass at a distance of 0.2 cm from the control lines of machine stitches. Lay the machine lines: the first - at a distance of 2 cm from the circumscribed edge of the bag, the second - at a distance of 3.5 cm from the edge of the bag.
The length of the handles is about 50 cm each. Put one handle in the kuliska, another knob-pull out into the kuliska, located on the other side of the bag. Connect the ends of each handle-knot to each other with a knot( using a bead, letting both cords pass through it).
Smart handbag "Bag"
This handbag model, resembling a bag( a similar shape was the first ladies handbags), is proposed as an addition to the festive side( Fig.).
Handbag is made of organza, on the lining. On the horizontal lines of assembly are sequins with beads( in the color of the main fabric).In the upper part of the bag is pulled together by a cord, which acts as a handle. To this model it is proposed to make a scarf from the cloth of the handbag, you can decorate the ends of the scarf with braided braid( from the metallized thread).
To perform this model you will need( the fabric calculation is given along with the scarf): organza - 150 cm with a width of 110 cm, lining fabric 20x150 cm, silk cord - 140 cm, 3 transparent beads( diameter not less than 1 cm) with holes, throughwhich can be missed the silk cord, fixing the block, sequins and beads in the color of the main fabric( the amount at your discretion).A circle of cardboard or plastic with a diameter of 13 cm, a finishing braid for a scarf 140 cm, a width of at least 4 cm.
DETAILS OF THE EDGE
From the main fabric( Fig.): 1 - bottom - 1 child, 2 - cloth of the bag - 1 child.,3 - scarf.
Of lining fabric: 1 - bottom - 1 child., 2 - cloth of handbag - 1 child.
Of cotton fabric: 1 - bottom - 1 child.(diameter 14 cm).
From cardboard( plastic): bottom - 1 child.diameter 13 cm
SEQUENCE OF MANUFACTURE
Sweep 4 loops 1 cm long in the specified areas. From the wrong side along the intended line, adjust the strip from the lining fabric with two lines - the kulisk.
Lay 5 lines at a distance of 3 cm from each other( the maximum stitch length is 4 cm)( Fig.).
Assemble the parcel with parallel lines, pulling the shuttle thread to get the size of the cloth of the bag - 50x30 cm. Stitch the side seam( 1 cm).
Stitch the bottom to the bottom of the fabric of the top of the purse.
Circle from a cardboard in diameter of 13 sm to cover a detail in diameter of 14 sm from a cotton fabric and manually to fix on cuts allowances of a bottom from a basic fabric and from cotton( the bottom from cardboard settles down between them).
Assemble lining: Stitch the side sections of the lining, leaving a 12 cm non-stitching area. Stitch the bottom to the top of the lining. Unscrew the bag and lining inside out. Fold the sides of the upper sections and stitch. Unscrew the bag on the front. Straighten the line along the top line of the kuliska, thus fixing the all-round wrapping of the bag( Fig.).
Pull the string into the culottes:
- a lace 140 cm long, fold in half, thread the ends of the cord into the bead( Fig.);
- to pass the laces in different directions of the kulisok. On the other side, both cords pass into the fixing block( it will regulate the free entrance to the purse).
The loose ends of the laces are threaded into the beads and fixed on the end by knots, you can fasten the knot in front of the beads( Fig.).
Undo the bag with paillettes with beads, placing them arbitrarily on the paved lines( Fig.).
Small handbag "Ridicule"
Small handbag