Reproduction by green cuttings
Mar 28, 2018
What is good about this method? Many fruit, berry and ornamental plants multiply by green cuttings. • Under favorable conditions, the yield of seedlings is high and reaches 95%.This method is also simple, but there is one "but": if you intend to plant a large number of cuttings, then you need greenhouses and better greenhouses with fogging plants.
Preparation of the
cutlass If the number of cuttings is estimated to be a hundred or two, then you can make the simplest shank. This is a bed covered with polyethylene film over its arcs, the edges of which are pressed tightly to the ground.5-15 cuttings can be rooted simply under the hood from a 5-liter plastic bottle.
How to prepare the soil?
The basic requirements are as follows:
- at the bottom of the ridge( at a depth of 20-25 cm) a good drainage is made of expanded clay, gravel, rubble with a layer of 10-15 cm;
- the fertile layer of the earth( already compacted) should be about 20 cm;
- a layer of pure river sand with a thickness of at least 5 cm is poured on top;
- the ridge prepared in this way is watered properly, so that the water goes to the bottom.
Most garden plants cuttings during the period of intensive growth of annual shoots, that is, in late June - early July( for the middle belt of Russia).True, there are exceptions. For example, in the honeysuckle edible at the end of June, shoots begin to bum one
and so get worse. Scrap this culture begins after June 10.Lilac and mountain ash are planted on the rooting even earlier - during the flowering period, at the end of May. And such crops as sea buckthorn and actinidia are better rooted in the period of attenuation of shoot growth - in mid-July.
General rule for all crops: Cut cuttings early in the morning, before the heat.
Which plants are better to take cuttings?
So-called uterine plants should be young, 3-4-year-old. Moreover, they can be both vaccinated and proprietary. For cuttings, one-year increments are selected with a well-illuminated surface.
It is better to place the tree in the half-shade of trees or from the northern side of the greenhouse. In this case, during the hot summer days, the temperature inside it under the film will not rise too high, and the humidity will remain high for longer.
part of the crown is 40-60 cm long. For labor-based plants it is better to cut off short side shoots. You can not cut cuttings from fatty shoots( tops), as they do not take root.
Cutting green cuttings
The average size of cuttings for most crops is 12-17 cm. Short cuttings take root normally, but their
grow longer to obtain standard seedlings. Long( 25-30 cm in size) worse take root, but in such breeds as lilac, chubushnik, thuja long cuttings are more preferable.
The lower cut of the cut is made oblique and below the kidney by 0.5 cm, the top cut - 1 cm above the kidney. The bottom 1-2 leaves are removed, only short petioles are left. In cultures with large leaves( viburnum, hydrangea, grapes maiden), shorten the remaining leaves to 1/2 or 1/3 part.
Using root stimulants
To accelerate root formation and increase the percentage of rooted cuttings, they are treated with special substances. The best results are obtained with the use of heteroauxin, or rather its aqueous solution.
There is always a cornevine on sale, which is used both in pure form and in dissolved form.
For processing, the cuttings are bundled into bundles, immersed in a solution to a depth of 1-2 cm for 14-16 hours. Then cuttings are rinsed with clean water and planted.
Cuttings are planted vertically to a depth of 1-2 cm with a distance between rows of 10 cm, and in a row through 5-8 cm, depending on the size of the leaves. Planted cuttings abundantly watered and close the paznik or greenhouse.
Care for cuttings
The period of rooting of green cuttings in different cultures is different. At the lung-
Renamed plants first roots appear after 3 weeks. But in this period the cuttings need constant care. All attention should be directed to maintaining the turgor in the leaves, because cuttings have no roots and water does not come from below. Therefore, only the creation of high humidity in a blackberry or in a greenhouse and a moderate temperature( optimal temperature + 23-27 ° C) will ensure the viability of green cuttings. To reduce the temperature in the heat can be shaded with gauze, whitewash, etc. And that leaves are all the time wet, cuttings are often sprayed or watered
from a small watering can( in the first 1-2 weeks every hour).You can focus on the condensate inside the cherekochnika: if the film inside the droplets of the chamber, then the humidity is high. As the lower leaves fall from the cuttings, they are collected so that foci of fungal infection do not arise.
When the first roots are formed, the first fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers is carried out. After mass rooting of the cuttings, the hotbeds are ventilated in the evenings, tempering the tender plants, and after some
. In such crops as cherry, plum, cherry plum, lilac, conifers, white and red currants, root cuttings - green cuttings with a part of last year's cuttingsmore than 0,5-1 cm. They are also called cuttings with a heel.
time fully open. Better in cloudy weather.
You can transplant rooted cuttings in autumn or spring. For the winter, young plants of roses, clematis, hydrangeas and other heat-loving crops are covered with lapnik or oak leaf.
To easily inseminated plants are: black currant, honeysuckle, edible, raspberry-blackberry hybrids, actinidia, red viburnum and decorative plants such as barberry Ottawa, grapes devi-chi, hydrangea tree and large-leaved, durens, roses, clematis, etc.
Medium-bred breeds: currant red and white, gooseberries, sea buckthorn, wild rose, hnosmele( Japanese quince), barberry Tunberga, hydrangea paniculate, honeysuckle honeysuckle, shrubby shrub, etc.
Hardly rooted crops: cherry, plum, ashberryan ordinary, a cherry-tree, a cranberry, a western thujas, a Cossack juniper, lilacs, chubushniki;spiraea, mahonia, etc.