Cherry information

Cherries are distinguished by two species: sea, with colored juice and pulp, and amorelia, in which the pulp and juice are not colored. Remarkably delicious and absolutely useful berry, well, except that you have a very high acidity of the stomach, then little by little, but still you can eat it.

The cause of poor fruiting may be the absence of a suitable pollinator for grafted forms of stone fruit crops, a single planting, an early autumn frost that kills still unripe flower buds. And they are bred by the stone fruit only by late autumn. Or, conversely, late spring frosts, when the flowers have already opened in the plants. Sometimes spring frosts pass when plants have already formed young ovaries, then their discharge occurs, since young ovaries are as vulnerable as open flowers.

However, the dumping of the ovaries is not only due to a drought during the period of growth of ovaries or late spring frosts, but also from the lack of potassium and calcium needed by plants to build up the stone. In addition, coccomicosis and moniliosis also cause premature ovary failure.

Selection of variety

In the south-west of the Leningrad region, cherry and plum sorts grow and bear fruit. Of the early varieties are zoned: Amorel Nikiforova, Shpanka Shimskaya. From the average maturation period - Vladimirskaya, Gorkovskaya, Zvezdochka, Rubinovaya, Raduga, and from the later - Lyubskaya, Korostynskaya, Zarnitsa, Zhukovskaya.

Cherries and, especially, plums in our - plants are problematic. First, they are usually vaccinated. They need pollinators. A suitable pair of plants can be very difficult to find. Yes, and that is a sin to conceal, often sellers give out wishful thinking, and you will realize that you bought the wrong goods when the plants begin to bear fruit, in 4-5 years after planting.

There are self-fruit varieties of cherries and plums. As a rule, these are varieties of people's selection, so they should be bought. In addition, such cherries are proprietary. There are also cultivars of self-fertilized plums and cherries, but this does not mean that you can plant one plum or one cherry. The crop will be scanty, just like in the absence of the right pollinator. In any case, you must plant at least two self-fertilized sinks and at least 2-3 cherries.

Of the self-fertilized cherries, the most suitable for the North-West are Cherry Steppe and Cherry Sand, which grow in the form of bushes. Do not allow too many trunks that grow from the ground in one bush. It is most expedient to have 5-6 of them. It's easier to take care of them.

There is another interesting cherry - Cherry felt. This is also a problem in the Northwest due to the fact that the cherry in the winter thaw easily freezes the root neck, and since this cherry does not resume root shoots, the plant often dies. This defect can be eliminated if the plant is not planted with a root plant, but plant a cherry cherry stem on a stem with a height of at least 40-50 cm, a steppe or steppe cherry. This cherry is attractive in that it fructifies in the North-West, and abundantly and annually, is not subject to classical diseases of stone fruit crops - coccomicosis and moniliasis, is practically not damaged by pests. In addition, it is a very elegant plant - a lush bush with leaves of a gray-blue color, covered with a gentle fluff.

Varieties: Alice, Delight, Oriental, Children, Beauty.

Features of cherry growing

Pruning

Pruning of cherries is a must. The normal growth of cherry tree branches is about 30-40 cm. The fact is that in the stone buds the buds are growth and fruit. From growth grow leaves and shoots. If the current year's gains are small( less than 20-25 cm), then they have only one growth bud at the top of this branch. The remaining kidneys are fruit-bearing, they live one to two years, depending on whether the given fruit is cherry-bearing on one-year-old wood or on a two-year-old. Accordingly, and the fruit twigs live a year or two, and then die, and the branch is bare. And only at the end of this branch there are several leaves. Gradually the cherry plant turns into a panicle.

Small increase indicates poor care - lack of moisture and nutrition, poor protection from diseases and pests. Help the plant, and it will restore the normal growth, which should be about 40 cm. The branches will eventually have to be cut off along with the bare trunk, to which such twigs are attached, it makes no sense to shorten them, since you cut the only growth bud, and the bare branch grows furtherwill not be.

In case of poor growth, the plant should be sprayed a couple of times during the summer with the "Ferevit" preparation, which increases the growth of the ends of the shoots, and feed it with microbial preparation "Extrarosol" in accordance with the attached instructions.

Branches with large increments( 50-60 cm) should be shortened to the desired 40 cm. As a rule, buds with such an increase( or more) are also planted with growth( vegetative) buds, from which new shoots and leaves form. And also on long shoots, fruit buds are formed, from which flowers are formed, and then fruits, and only the apical bud is growth.

After fruiting, the fruit buds will die, but the branch continues fruiting, as it has lateral branches, on which both fruit and vegetative buds are re-planted with increments of about 40 cm.

Watering, top dressing

Cherry does not like stagnant waters. In principle, like apricots, it is completely drought-resistant, but still needs dry water in the dry spring and early summer. Water should be along the perimeter of the crown of the plant, in the evening, 4-6 buckets of a subtree.

Fertilizer in spring - ash, on a liter jar, on wet soil, along the perimeter of the crown, 1 tbsp.a spoonful of urea and 2 tbsp.spoons of chlorine-free potassium( with topping with potassium chloride discards the leaves) per 10 liters of water( at least 3-4 buckets per plant).You can replace potassium nitrate( 2 tablespoons).During the intensive growth of the ovaries, sprinkle the leaves with a solution of trace elements. In addition, you need one more liter of ash to build up the stone.

In the middle of August - 2 tbsp.spoons of double granulated superphosphate and 1 tbsp.a spoonful of potassium per 10 liters of water( not just 4 buckets) and again a liter ash bank. Litry ash can be replaced with 1 glass of dolomite.

Late fall, after discarding the leaves, you can make a couple of organic buckets or pour faeces, like apricots.

Propagation of

Propagation of root-cherry cherries is easiest for root growing, you only need to know that the shoot should be taken no closer than 1.5 m from the trunk, otherwise you will deprive the plant of a large part of the root system. Dig carefully, not burrowing into the soil for more than 20 cm, the root offspring. When you find the root of the mother plant on which it grows, chop it off at 20-30 cm from the offspring( so as not to take the root from the mother plant).Then try to find the roots around the offspring and gently dig them out. Now you can land it on a prepared place in advance. If you keep the maximum of the root system, then the offspring will blossom the next year. Of course, the grafted cherries do not multiply that way, because they are grafted onto wild animals. Root-owned cherries can be propagated and bones( without pulp), which are sown immediately after harvesting.

Extra growth should be regularly cut to the soil level. In the home-grown cherries, growing in the form of bushes, one must at times leave one strong escape shoot, carving out the obsolete, which stopped fruiting.

In order to grow smaller, cherries should not be buried in the soil when planting.

Pests and diseases

The most malicious wrecker of cherries is aphids. If you spray a spring cocktail, the recipe of which was given in the section on protecting the garden, at the time of leaf rotation, it will not be. Then - cherry fly, hawthorn and cherry moths, sawflies, tortellar, goose, scoop. Regular spraying of plants( once a month) "Healthy garden" will save trees from pests. With a large number of them should be added to the solution of the "Healthy Garden" "FToverm".

Of diseases the most dangerous are moniliosis and coccomicosis. Moniliasis of stone fruit crops is usually seen in cold, rainy weather in the spring: suddenly suddenly the leaves turn brown, as if they were scalded with boiling water, and the branches seem to shrink. But usually in early summer on the shrunken branches of the sleeping buds, the leaves unfold again, which turn yellow and fall at the end of July and beginning of August. Cockcomicosis manifests itself in the middle of summer, causing premature yellowing and falling leaves. With these diseases, the crops fall sharply, the berries crack, become covered with brown spots, become inedible.

Usually, to save trees, they are recommended to spray them with copper-containing preparations. But after such spraying, you can not eat fruit and berries for 3 weeks. It is better to take a spring cocktail at the time of the turn of the leaves, and then every 10-15 days spray the plants on the leaves with "Zircon"( 4 drops per 1 liter of water).If the increments are small, then add to the solution also 2 drops of "FeroVita".These measures are also suitable for other stone seed diseases.