Caring for frost-damaged trees
Fruit trees, depending on the breed, species, variety, have a different degree of frost resistance, some plants tolerate frosts well even in severe winters, others can freeze and receive extensive damage as a result of frost.
High frost resistance is typical:
for young trees during the period of growth and the beginning of fruiting;
for trees with strong growth;
with a moderate annual yield;
annually cropped;
growing with favorable water-air and nutrient regimes of the soil;
with timely harvesting;
with the optimal completion of growth at the end of vegetation.
Low frost resistance is observed in trees:
newly planted;
weakened, with short growths of branches in length and overload generative formations;
is periodically fruiting;
after a plentiful harvest on the eve of a severe winter;
launched, old, not cut short;
growing on rich soils with one-way enhanced nitrogen nutrition;
when delayed with harvest;
as a result of prolonged growth and secondary growth.
When freezing the bark, determine the nature and extent of damage and after the awakening of the kidneys cut the damaged branches. When the weakly freezes, and the visibility of the damaged parts is poor, pruning is carried out to healthy wood in the early spring before budding.
Sections are made in the area of budding budding, not paying attention to the subordination of branches. In the first year, the maximum number of growth points is left. To maintain the root system leave the root shoots for 1-2 years. After 1-2 years, when the trees get stronger, they use a correction pruning. Shallow frosts and sunburn on the stem and the bases of large branches relatively quickly overgrow themselves. The lagging bark is cleaned up to a healthy place and covered with garden fumes. You can not leave it open.
After melting snow, bushes of raspberries and other berry bushes, tied and bent to the ground, are freed from strapping, and after their straightening they tie up to the trellis. If the freezes very hard, it will only be pruned in the next year, if the tree can be restored. If only a small number of branches are preserved in a satisfactory condition, the trees are uprooted and new ones are laid. When the above-ground part of the tree is frozen to the level of the snow cover, 2-4-year-old trees are cut in the place where live tissues are preserved. The new crown is formed from the strongest and well located shoot, which appeared above the site of inoculation. Frozen trees need a recovery period: they are weakened and can easily be exposed to various diseases and pests, so care must be taken to ensure them. To improve the
, the conditions of the root system are created by a good water-air and nutrient regimes of the soil: regular watering, weeding with hoes of the trunks, fertilization( especially nitrogen fertilizers).
- With a slight degree of freezing, the trees are cut off in spring, as healthy.
With an average degree, the trees are cut after the entry of the tree during the growing season, not before the end of May or the beginning of June.
In case of severe freezing, pruning is carried out for the next year.
Adult tree transplantation
In the practice of homestead gardening, there is sometimes a need for transplantation of adult trees. Pomegranate( apple, pear) easily tolerate transplantation until the age of 20, stone fruit can be ill for a long time. For a transplant, healthy trees are suitable without damage, wounds and dope. The trees affected by cancer or burns are very poorly tolerated by transplantation. Adult trees can be transplanted in autumn, winter and spring. The most favorable period of transplant is early spring. Digs the trees neatly, trying to keep as many roots as possible. The excavated trees can be with a lump of earth and without it. The survival rate of trees is much higher when transplanting with a lump. Transplanted trees are immediately watered abundantly( up to 10-15 buckets of water per each) and the soil surface is mulched with manure or compost with a layer of 6-8 cm. Then 2-3 waterings are carried out during the growing season. To protect against swinging by wind, the tree must be strengthened by spacers( at least 3).The trunk of the tree and the bases of skeletal branches are wrapped with moss, straw or burlap. This reduces the evaporation of moisture by the tree and improves its survival. After planting, the branches are shortened, cutting off young annual increments, removing dry and diseased branches. In trees transplanted with a clod of earth, branches are cut less. For the winter, transplanted trees are recommended to be insulated.