Growing grape seedlings in the usual way
Preparation of cuttings. Cuttings must be harvested from healthy, high-yield, well-developed shrubs of the right kind. The best time for harvesting cuttings in the areas where bushes cover for winter is autumn. Usually, cuttings are mixed with preliminary pruning of bushes to their shelter. In areas of undeveloped grapes, cuttings are harvested in the fall after fall leaves, in winter( except frosty days) and early spring before the beginning of sap flow.
Only one-year old, well developed and mature shoots are used for propagation. The most valuable for the preparation of cuttings is the lower and middle parts of the vine with well-formed eyes.
Outward signs of good maturing of the shoots are the color of the bark characteristic for the variety, their hardness to touch and slight crackling during bending.
When harvesting cuttings, the vine is cleaned from the antennae and stepsons. Cuttings cut into 5-10 cm more than the depth of landing accepted in the given locality. The thickness of them, depending on the type of grapes, should be 6-10 mm. Cuttings thinner than 5 mm are not suitable for reproduction, as they contain a small supply of nutrients, and too thick - more than 10 mm - due to fatliquoring. When propagating acutely deficient varieties cuttings are also cut from well-developed stepsons, if they have a sufficient thickness and normally matured.
You can not harvest cuttings from shrubs that are severely damaged by frost, cancer patients with short-bruised, anthracnose, oidium and mildew. Irregular shoots of shoots are unsuitable for harvesting cuttings, vines that had all sorts of ugliness - flattened, strongly curved, with abnormally long internodes, etc.
If possible cuttings should be planted immediately in the school. If there is no such possibility, then they are kept until the spring.
Storage of cuttings. To protect from freezing and drying, the cuttings immediately after the workpiece are dripped or temporarily put the lower ends into the water. Before laying for long-term storage, they are treated with a 5% solution of ferrous sulfate or a 0.5% solution of quinazole in order to protect against mold.
Cuttings obtained from a different place should be soaked in water for 24 hours, then ventilated.
Long-term storage of cuttings can be carried out in a trench or pit, in moist soil or sand, at a depth below freezing of soil in a given locality.
The best place to store cuttings can serve as dry, cool cellars. Bound cuttings are wrapped on all sides of moderate moisture, but not too wet burlap in two or three layers and placed in a polyethylene bag that is tightly knotted or tightly wrapped in polyethylene film. The best storage temperature of cuttings is 1-5 ° C.
The condition of the cuttings during winter is checked at least 2-3 times. In the case of detection of mold, it is removed by rubbing the cuttings followed by a brief airing, after which they are again packed. When the sacking dried, it is slightly moistened, when the mildew appears, the sacking is washed in water, and when rotting, it is replaced with a new one.
For a long distance cuttings are transported packed in polyethylene bags.
Preparing cuttings for planting. For better rooting, the cuttings before the planting are renewed with the lower cuts( they are held tightly under the lowest knot), while preventing damage to the diaphragm of the knot. After the cut is updated, the cuttings are put in water for 1-2 days for soaking, after which they are placed on the kilts or planted.
Other techniques that accelerate rooting, deserve attention fissuring and blinding the lower eyes of the cuttings.
Planting cuttings in the school and caring for her. Before planting cuttings in the spring, and even better from autumn, the soil is deeply digged, at the same time organic fertilizers are introduced. For 1 m2 - 0.5-1 bucket of well decomposed manure or compost. When digging up the soil in case of detection of larvae of horsetails or other root-killing pests, they are destroyed.
Cuttings are planted in ditches with a depth of at least 40 cm and a width equal to the width of the shovel. At the bottom of the ditch it is desirable to make a well decomposed manure or compost at a rate of 0.5-2 buckets per 1 m2, thoroughly mixing it with the ground. When planting, reject cuttings that do not form callus, dried and non-viable. The more carefully the selection of cuttings during planting, the greater the yield of seedlings from the schoolchild and the better their quality. Cuttings are installed obliquely to one side of the ditch at a distance of 10-12 cm from each other so that one or two eyes remain above the surface of the soil. Then the ditch is covered up to half with fertile soil, densely packed and filled with water. After absorbing water, the ditch is covered with earth to the top.
In production after planting, the cuttings are grounded with earth. In individual plots, instead of hilling the cuttings, it is better to cover with a film, and not to pour a layer of earth 5-6 cm overhead. To observe the development of cuttings above them, leave a narrow gap( 2-3 cm) of the film not covered with earth. The film reliably prevents the upper eyes from drying out and the resulting young shoots from spring frosts. With the appearance of green shoots on the cuttings, they are aired by raising one of the sides of the coating, and after the spring frost has stopped and the warm warm weather sets in, the film is removed. Temporal covering of the film with earth is necessary to reduce the heating of air space under it and to delay the development of eyes.
When planting several rows, the ditches are digging in parallel at a distance of 30-40 cm. With the planting of the cuttings, one should not be late to avoid shortening the time for growth and maturing of shoots.
In northern areas with a short vegetation period, the seedlings should be grown under a film. This makes it possible earlier to plant cuttings in the school and accelerate the growth and development of seedlings.
When growing seedlings under the film, the soil is prepared from autumn, and early in the spring, its surface is covered with a film for its rapid warming up. Cuttings are planted on a more dense layout and at the earliest.
Watering during planting and later carried out with water heated to a temperature of 40-50 ° C.After planting over the cuttings set a low frame of metal or wooden arcs, on top of which stretch polyethylene transparent film, which is firmly fixed to the ground.
In conditions of arid climate and when an amateur appears in the garden only on weekends, seedlings are best grown in a trench. To do this, dig a trench depth and width of 30 cm( length arbitrary).
Cuttings 40 cm long laid obliquely through 8-10 cm and completely covered with soil, leaving only the ends on the surface that mulch. In the groove, moisture is accumulated, which contributes to the development of seedlings.
High survival rate of cuttings and a good yield of first-class seedlings from the school are provided by careful and timely care of the site and plants. For this, it is necessary to periodically loosen rows between rows and weed out weeds in rows. If there is no rain, the schoolchild is watered, for which in the middle of the aisles do grooves, in which water is poured. Water should be so that the soil is well hydrated to the depth of occurrence of the roots. After watering, the grooves fall asleep. In the second half of the summer, watering is not carried out, which contributes to the suspension of growth and ripening of shoots.
Watering can be combined with fertilizing plants with mineral fertilizers. In the spring, nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers are used to feed the best growth of seedlings( 250 g of superphosphate and 200 g of ammonium nitrate per 10 buckets of water), in the summer - potassium and phosphorus fertilizers that promote better ripening of shoots( 250 g superphosphate and 150 g potassium salt per 10buckets of water).In the spring, you can feed the plants with slurry. To prepare it for 10 buckets of water take 2 buckets of mullein. The mixture is allowed to ferment in the tub for 2-3 weeks. When watering a bucket, the slurries are diluted with 10 buckets of water.
After the shoots on the cuttings are developed, they are bored, and in the beginning of August the covering roller is even leveled. It is necessary to spread the shoots on an overcast day, so as not to cause burns by direct sun rays of a young tissue devoid of chlorophyll. At the same time, the roots that develop from the upper nodes and the shoots from the lower nodes are removed, and the larvae of the horsetails, wireworms and other pests of the grape plants are selected.
To combat mildew, the school of susceptible varieties is periodically sprayed with a solution of the Bordeaux liquid: the first spraying with a 0.5% solution is carried out when the first 3-4 leaves on the shoot appear, followed by a 1% solution after each rain and as new leaves form.
In the period of shoot growth pinch children, pinching 1-2 leaves. Underdeveloped shoots on the cuttings are removed, leaving only 1-2 of the strongest. At the end of summer, the tips of the shoots are minted for better maturation of the wood.
Excavation of seedlings. The saplings are excavated in the autumn. Along one side of the row, dig a groove to the depth of the roots, then dig up the earth from the other side of the row and, together with the seedlings, they are piled into the groove. Carefully, not to cut off roots, seedlings are selected from the soil and sorted. For planting on the vineyard, only such saplings are selected, in which the lower part of the shoot( with 3-5 buds) matured well, and several roots developed on the heel. Saplings with a weak or non-mature growth and poorly developed roots should be planted in a secondary school.
Assorted seedlings are tied into bundles, labels are attached to them, wrapped in film and placed in a cellar or cellar for storage. Seedling can also be stored in moist sand.