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  • Chamomile family chamomile

    Well, what a Russian garden without chamomiles - our flowers. This family includes plants, flower baskets in which they consist of white or colored smooth, usually flat, marginal petals and a yellow( red-brown or other color) tubular center.

    In Russian, the word "daisy" appeared only in the XVIII century. It came to us from the Polish language and meant in translation a Roman( Roman) flower. It applied only to a medicinal daisy, of which remarkable properties had been known since ancient times. Europeans learned this knowledge mainly from the treatise of the Roman scientist Pliny the Elder. Long before the appearance of the word "daisy", this flower was widely known in Russia, as it grew everywhere in the meadows. In Russia there was a belief that daisies appear where the star fell, so especially a lot of daisies in the fields appear after the stellar fall. In Ancient Egypt this flower was dedicated to the sun god Ra.

    Garden daisies appeared much later as a result of the selection activities of flower growers from different countries. Plants belonging to this family are sun-loving, but they tolerate and with penumbra. It is important that the sun hit them at noon time, at least within 3-5 hours. To the soil they are, in principle, undemanding, but, of course, grow better and blossom on fertile garden lands. The root system lies at a depth of about 20-40 cm. This kind of soil layer should be laid before planting. In principle, you can plant both in spring and autumn, but, as already mentioned above, not in the Northwest. We prefer and more reliable planting perennials in August.

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    All Compositae prefer the soil, which is close to neutral, but is completely reconciled with weakly acidic soils. If the area is flooded with meltwaters in spring and in winter thaws or during prolonged rains, which is often in the Northwest, it must necessarily be drained, because the plants will die, although they are rather hygrophilous, that is, during a prolonged drought( week-and-a-half)they will have to be watered. Good watering( 2 buckets under a large bush), and not "pshikat" from the watering can on top. To prevent moisture from slipping off the surface of the soil and flowing into the unknown, it is necessary to first "popsykat" on the surface of the soil to slightly moisten it, and only after that, water properly. Irrigation should always be done in the evening, then less water will evaporate from the surface and moisture per night will penetrate deep into the root zone. Blossom chamomile for a long time( from 30 to 60 days) and abundant, look elegant. Most of them are tall plants reaching 100-150 cm, but there are lower ones( 40-60 cm) and even very small ones( 5-15 cm).

    Propagation of chamomile chunks. The division of the bush is best done in August. Where there are no spring frosts, it can be done in the spring. The places of division should be immediately sprinkled with ashes( or greased with "zelenok", bought at the pharmacy).

    Perennials reproduce well with seeds. You can sow seeds for seedlings at the end of March, and then raspikirovat it for individual containers at 1 -2 present leaflets. For small seeds this is literally a piece of jewelry. Planting seedlings immediately in place can be done after frost, in early June. Distance at any planting 35 x 35 cm. Either you can sow the seeds in the school directly into the open ground in May, but immediately cover the crops with film. Seedlings appear after 2-3 weeks. Carefully follow the crops to remove the film in time, otherwise the shoots may "burn" under it. Irrigation and weeding are mandatory until the plants grow up. They can be put to places in August. But some species require a long stratification, so it is better to sow them in the open ground in September.

    Many chamomiles are well cuttings. For cuttings should take young green shoots, which must be cut into cuttings long with a pencil. For a canopy on a fertile soil layer, 10-12 cm of clean sand should be poured. Then it is necessary to pour well with a solution of potassium permanganate. Cuttings cut into water, then into "Kornevin" and stuck into the sand vertically. Cover with a glass jar or plastic transparent bottle, from which the bottom is cut off( do not unscrew the plug).You should make a cherry tree in the shade. Now we must make sure that the soil does not dry out. You can water on top directly to the banks, and in hot weather you need to do this every day, but do not fill the soil with water. It is necessary that the upper layer of the earth remains moist. Cuttings are usually made in late June-early July. When new leaves appear, the cans can be removed. For winter, cover the planting with lapnics or transplant them into boxes with soil and put them in the cellar for the winter. In the spring, drop it off, but only after the frost has passed.

    In one place plants bloom well 3-5 years. As soon as flowering starts to deteriorate, it is necessary to dig it out in August and divide it, or simply to separate one part, which should be planted( sell, divided into smaller parts, exchanged for another plant or donated).Form a void fill with new fertile soil. At the next rejuvenation, after 3-4 years, separate the part of the bush from the other side. Thus, the bush will grow and bloom in one place for about 10 years. This is convenient if you do not like to do redevelopment of flower beds. And if you want to change their appearance, then the bush must be digged, divided into parts and transplanted to another place. But if you do not do rejuvenation or transplant bushes, then you will lose the plant. It will take and perish overnight.

    They have almost no wreckers. Although the roots can damage the bear, the wireworm( larvae of the beetle beetle), the horseradish( larvae of the May beetle and bronze) and the caterpillars of the winter scoop( the night butterfly is a large moth).Leaves can prick out cruciferous fleas and bare slugs. And the flowers are eaten by the May beetles and bronzovka.

    Medvedki - large( about 5-7 cm), similar to cancer, pests - make horizontal moves in the soil and eat everything: the roots of plants and root crops, potatoes and tubers or flower bulbs. They settle in wet places, they like wintering in dungThey are often brought to the site along with the manure, and special baits such as "Medvedoks" can be scattered around these insects, and slightly loosen it in the soil. It is noticed that the bears do not like garlic, so it is useful to plant garlic in flower gardens.you can lure for the winter,then destroy in the earliest spring, in the square where the bear was planted, dig holes and fill them with fresh manure( marking these places with sticks).

    A wire( hard as a wire, yellowish "worm" 3-4 cm long) basically lives there, where the grass grows, on weakly acidic soils. If you constantly maintain the soil neutral( pH 6), it will not be. Reave the wheat grass - the wireworms will also be lost. Either the "Nemabakt"( symbiosis of the bacteria and the predator nematode, which destroys the wireworm) must be introduced into the soil."Nemabakt" can live in damp soil for a long time, and therefore it is usually sold together with a soil called "Protection".

    Cracks( thick, with transverse folds, arched white larvae with a black or brown head) hibernate in the soil, mostly under bushes and trees, often in compost or manure. When you compost under the planting, carefully watch so as not to carry along with him and the bugs. They are chosen by hand and pressed. If the landing areas are large, then before planting, you can make 2% granular hexachlorane( 1 teaspoon per 1 m2).

    Against a cruciferous flea( fine beetle with a bronze outflow), spraying with a shampoo solution for washing dogs against fleas called "Bim" is excellent.

    Naked slugs for a day climb under cover. So make traps for them, for example, pieces of wavy slate, which should be disposed near the feeding places of slugs( an indication of their presence is the large holes on the leaves of plants).In the afternoon, turn the slate and transfer slugs or drop them into cans with strongly salted water. This is an excellent treat for chickens. In addition, slugs - drunkards and cannibals. They like beer. Dig in the very neck of a jar of beer in the places of their accumulation where there are many large holes on the leaves. They will certainly get into the beer, but they will not be able to get back. If you crushed a slug and you do not have any familiar chickens, then leave them where they crushed. At night, live slugs will gather at the feast, and you put several granules of methylaldehyde on the soil around the corpse( sold under the names "Meta" or "Thunderstorm").A good measure is the pollination of the soil around the plant with dry mustard. This, of course, is much more economical than pouring poison from methaldehyde throughout the flower garden area. Slugs, as well as snails, have a tender abdomen to not injure them, they release mucus. Mustard and metaldehyde abdomen are burned, and slugs die. Sometimes, instead of metaldehyde or mustard, lime is used, but it can not be poured around plants that prefer an acidic environment.

    If the area is large, then you will have to use methaldehyde or quicklime( in any case not getting on the stems of plants).The consumption is large - 1 teaspoon per 1 m2.

    Winter scoop inhabits places, clogged with field bindweed and quinoa. Do not let these weeds in your planting, there will not be scoops. The scoop flew at the time of cherry blossom. In the North-West in late May-early June. To-get rid of the scoop, it is enough to spray the planting in mid-May with the drug "Fitoverm" or "Iskra-bio."If the area is large, then you can apply "Carbophos" or "Actellik", but only not on the site of 6 hectare.

    None of these pests will not be if the soil is covered with black spunbond( or lutrasil) or cardboard( newspapers).A plant will regularly spray( or pour under the root) with the drug "Healthy Garden"( 2-4 grains per 1 liter of water).Spraying, though more laborious, but more profitable.

    Chamomile are extremely seldom, mainly mildew, with prolonged wet, cold weather and rust.

    The most effective remedy is any modern immune or microbial drugs. The most effective are "Zircon", "Novosil"( they are more economical to spray plants) or "Extrasol" and "Phytosporin"( they can water the plants better, you can directly on the leaves and soil around the plant).

    All kinds of chamomiles are excellent in cutting. Cut in the morning before the heat, and immediately put in water. For cutting, flowers are usually taken with the floor open with buds. If you need to transport them, it is better to do this in a container of water. Alternatively, wrap the stems in a damp cloth( or sphagnum moss) and put them in a plastic bag. Gently wrap the whole bouquet in a newspaper or gauze and then transport it. Of course, you can buy special packaging long boxes for the transportation of flowers. Carry cut flowers bouquet is meaningless, because for the road your bouquet will be consumed and will have a miserable appearance. Such "remains" of bouquets can often be seen at suburban train stations on a Sunday.

    Cut flowers stand in the water much longer, if they are put not in the water, but in the prepared solution of the "Healthy Garden".If you do not have it, add 1 teaspoon of sugar to 1 liter of water for top dressing and an aspirin tablet, it will help against putrefactive bacteria. Instead of aspirin, you can use a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate. But the solution after a day should be changed, washed and slightly cut the stems.

    So, let's look at the different types of chamomile, this remarkable family of Compositae: Most often, the daisies are referred to as Nivian, Matricaria and Pyrethrum. This is the end of the matter. But there are a lot of flowers with such a flower structure. Conditionally all of them can be attributed to daisies. Let's consider them. Let's start in alphabetical order.