Selection and placement of crops
The selection of vegetable crops for growing in the garden is largely dependent on soil and climatic conditions, site location and other environmental factors, as well as your personal tastes and preferences. So, in the southern regions heat-loving crops are grown - tomato, eggplant, pepper, watermelon, melon, beans, corn, and from cold-resistant - onions, carrots, beets.
In the central strip, cabbage, carrots, beets, parsley, celery are preferred, and from heat-loving ones - tomatoes and cucumbers. In all zones, a significant place in the gardens is occupied by green crops - salad, radish, dill.
When placing crops on the site, consider the peculiarities of its relief. South side( slope) give heat-loving crops( beans, tomato, cucumber), northern - cold-resistant( turnip, rutabaga, radish), low places - cabbage.
On fertile high and well-heated areas protected from cold winds, it is preferable to place thermophilic crops - cucumber, tomato, beans, corn, melons and gourds. Cabbage of medium and late varieties, table root crops can be planted at low sites. These crops work well in low-lying drained peatlands and loamy soils. Early cabbage, onion-poppy grow well on sandy, light loamy, well drained soils with medium sunshine. Under radish, lettuce, spinach, special areas are usually not diverted, but are grown in the intercrops of the main crops. Perennial vegetable crops - sorrel, rhubarb, horseradish, asparagus - it is better to place on separate sites intended for them. When determining the range of crops in the garden, it is also important to know how much each particular crop should be presented in order to meet your needs for vegetable products. The selection of crops depends to a large extent on the size of the site, its distance from the main residence, and also on your ability to process it. In any case, every vegetable gardener wants to have a variety of vegetables from his beds, and receive them from early spring until late autumn and, in addition, provide winter harvesting. But to get involved in a large number of cultures does not immediately follow. You must correctly calculate your strength. Experience shows that 50 m2, allocated for vegetables, it is expedient to distribute as follows: for root crops( carrots, beets, turnip, radish, parsnip, parsley, etc.), cabbage, pumpkin cultures( cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, patisson) - 10m2;tomato and greens - 5 m2 each;perennial crops - 4 m2;bows and legumes - 3 m2 each.
Bed with the use of sealing intermediate cultures
1. Salad.
2. Onions.
3. Tomato
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Garden plan
1. Curling beans, peas, beans are planted from the edge of the plot so that they do not obscure other crops.2. The hill bed.3 - High bed.
4. Bed with early spring crops under cover material. 5. A bed with root vegetables, for example carrots, can be combined with onion planting.6. Tall vegetables on the trellis or frame can be replaced with raspberry plantings. Such high plantations create protection from the wind for tender green crops.
7 - A bed with green cultures.8. A bed with a bow, it is possible to plant different kinds of crops in the form of a mixed planting.9. The greenhouse.10. Spiral-shaped beds with greenery.11. A round bed with spicy aromatic plants and medicinal herbs.12. Seed beds for seedlings with a film tunnel.13. A bed of strawberries, mulch with straw.14. Ground greenhouse.15. Compost site.16. House of
Radish, salad, dill can be sown as seals, between rows of cabbage, carrots;pumpkin, zucchini, squash is advisable to plant at the end of the ridge, along the tracks or allocate a special area for them. Radish, turnips, beets, salad mustard are recommended to place on the sides of ridges;peas, beans, beans - sow curb from the north side, so as not to shade the site. Early spring vegetables, sown for the winter, will arrive on the table from the middle of May( perennial types of green onions, parsley, parsnips);from the end of May - radish, salad;from the middle of June - May radish, turnip, rhubarb;in early July - carrot, carrot, beetroot, cucumber, early and cauliflower, kohlrabi;from the end of July - soup beans, zucchini, patisson, tomato and other vegetables.
Possible distribution of crops on the site.
When determining the range of crops and their number on the site, it is necessary to take into account its size, the need for culture per person and the approximate norms of crop yield per unit area.
KulturaUrozhaynost, area under kg / m culture for 1 person., M2
Kartofel430
Cabbage
belokochannaya5b
Beet stolovaya32
Morkov42
Ogurets33-4
Pomidor44-5
repchatyy33
Bow Bow zelenyy32
Kabachok32
Cabbage tsvetnaya23
Redis1,52
Salad, spinach1,52
Greens31
Peas1,53
Peppers sweet1,52-3
Mixed plantings
If it is rational to approach the location of crops in the plot, even in non-Black Earth conditions, you can get 8-9 kg of various vegetables from 1 m2.It is most advisable to practice mixed and compacted plantings. In this case, the cultures are selected taking into account their individual characteristics and mutual influence on each other.
This area has not been studied yet, but the accumulated practical experience and a number of studies have already made it possible to draw certain conclusions.
Plants growing in close proximity can influence each other in different ways. This influence can have a physical form and can be expressed in the formation of a certain microclimate, when higher plants create partial shading and increased humidity for plants of the lower tier, which can adversely affect the development of plants and suppress their growth, or may, on the contrary, serve as protection from the sun andwind. Such protection needs, for example, spinach and salad, which do not like strong overheating in the sun, or fragile bean plants easily damaged by wind.
Another form of mutual influence of plants can be considered chemical, since in this case the effect is achieved through the release of various substances by roots and leaves. Leaves release volatile substances, such as strongly smelling aromatic herbs or water-soluble compounds, which, when watering or rain, are washed off from the leaves of plants and fall into the soil. Roots produce a large number of organic compounds in the soil, among which there are many biologically active compounds. They are absorbed by the roots of nearby plants and have a certain effect on them: stimulating or overwhelming, depending on the biological characteristics of the neighboring plants.
In the relationship of mutual assistance between plants, vegetable crops of the legume family play a special role. Special nodule bacteria on the roots of these plants are able to absorb from the air and fix nitrogen, accumulating it in special nodules. Bean cultures do not supply themselves with nitrogen and do not need additional nitrogen fertilizers, but also share it with neighboring plants that absorb nitrogen entering the soil with root extracts of legumes in a form that is accessible to the roots of plants.
The mechanism of such mutual influence is based on the fact that any kind of plant possesses a specific metabolism peculiar to this type of metabolism. The substances released by this species into the soil and the environment can have a strong positive or negative effect on neighboring plants of another species. A negative effect is the slowing down, and sometimes even the suppression of the growth of the neighboring plant, the weakening of its development, the deterioration of the palatability of the fetus. The positive effect is expressed in stimulating one plant to develop another, creating a favorable environment for growth, activating the absorption of nutrients from the soil by the plant, increasing resistance to diseases and pests.
Parsley is a very favorable companion for many crops, with which it is recommended to plant on the edges of beds as a frame: tomatoes, strawberries, asparagus, celery, radish, various kinds of salads, peas, leeks.
| Culture | Potential combinations | Favorable effect | Undesirable proximity |
| Potatoes | Honey beans, beans, spices- | Horseradish protects against potato | Sunflower, beet, |
| nat, cabbage, cauliflower, | bugs;legumes enrich the soil | tomatoes | |
| kohlrabi, lettuce, corn, | nitrogen, repellent Colorado | ||
| radish, horseradish, coriander, cat | beetle | ||
| Cabbage | Potatoes, bush beans, | Celery protects from earthy | Tomatoes, parsley, |
| ( types) | celery, dill, cucumber | fleas;dill scares off aphids and | garlic growing close-up |
| grass, salad( kinds), spinach, | caterpillars, improves taste;borage | zest grapes, tansy | |
| chicory, aromatic | grass scares away snails;lettuce | ||
| herbs: hyssop, rosemary, mint, | protects against an earthen flea; | ||
| wormwood, sage, thyme;onion- | aromatic herbs - from egg- | ||
| leeks, beets, cucumbers, pomi- | laying cabbage butterflies;bow- | ||
| dory, chard, potatoes | scare caterpillars of cabbage scoops | ||
| Cucumbers | Bushworm and curled beans, | Radish protects against leaf beet, | Tomatoes |
| beans, celery, beet, red- | spider mite, improves | ||
| ka, lettuce, cabbage, garlic, onion, | taste, favorably affects | ||
| onion, radish, spinach, fennel, cucumber grass, dill, chamomile | on the soil | ||
| Tomato | Celery, parsley, salads, | Improves the quality of the fruit, prolongs | Cucumber,potatoes |
| endive, spinach, bush | digs storage time, discourages | rabi, fennel, dill | |
| beans, radish, radish, garlic, corn, cabbage, carrots, beets, chive, aromatic herbs: basil, sage, lemonbalm, mint, savory | pests | ||
| Eggplant | Shrub beans, thyme, onion, | Improves the quality of the soil, funk- | Badly tolerates any |
| salad, spinach | pots of the Colorado beetle | proximity, single plantings preferred | |
| Onion | Carrots, beets, lettuce, radish, | Improves growth, creates a good | Beans, peas, beans, shal- |
| cucumbers, spinach, watercress, | conditions; carrots otpugiva- | fairies, cabbage - problematic | |
| aromatic herbs: savory, chamomile | from the onion fly | Noe neighborhood | |
|
| Garlic Tomato, beet, carrot, | Repels pests is | beans, peas, cabbage |
| cucumbers, strawberries | Healthy character | ||
| Carrots | Peas, onion, tomato, garlic, | Repels carrot fly, | Dill, anise |
| onion, spinach, radish, | gives favorable soil | ||
| radish, lettuce, chard, beet, aromaticea grass: rosemary, sage | medium | ||
| Beet | Tomatoes, bush beans, | Mutual growth stimulation, anti- | Potatoes, corn, |
| spinach, onion, cabbage, radish, | biotic properties of the root | chard, onion | |
| radish,carrots, onions, lettuce, | beet extracts promote | ||
| kohlrabi, garlic, cucumber, celery tuber | soil improvement and crops | ||
| Radish | Tomato, onions, garlic, | Salad protects against earthy | Cucumber, hyssop |
| chard, spinach, parsley, | fleas;bean improves the soil and | ||
| fennel, watercress, species | palatability of root crops; | ||
| cabbage, peas, leaf and | protects against pests;kupyr | ||
| cabbage salad, bush fas- | protects from overheating;watercress | ||
| salt, hyssop, nasturtium | improves root flavors, sharpness | ||
| Radish | Beet, spinach, carrots, | Favorable reciprocal effects | Hyssop, fennel |
| parsnip, cucumber, tomato, | , pest control | ||
| pumpkin | cruciferous |
Special attention should be paid to the protective effect of plants on each other. In this case, the isolation of the roots or leaves of one plant species does not have a direct stimulating or depressing effect on neighbors, but they protect them from the spread of pathogenic infections, repel harmful insects with their strong, unpleasant smell or confuse pests, masking the strong odor of the scent of the attackedculture. This is a very important criterion when selecting components for mixed plantings. So, the onion acts on a spider mite, celery on a cabbage fly, garlic and wormwood on cruciferous fleas, tomatoes on a copperfish and a firefly.
Aromatic herbs, whose leaves emit a large amount of active volatile substances, are good satellites for many vegetable crops.
It should be borne in mind that the result of the protective action of plants in mixed plantings will never be the complete disappearance of pests, one can only expect a decrease in their numbers. Since this area of plant relationships has not been studied so far, it is necessary to rely on experience data and record practical observations. As a result of long-term observations it has been established that radish grows very well in mixed plantings between rows of bush beans. It becomes very large, tasty and not wormy, it is not affected by the cabbage fly, which in monoculture causes great harm. They sow radish 2 weeks earlier than the beans, so that it does not have time to grow and choke it. Among garden plants, mutual aid relations are much more often than hostility relations. Poor compatibility of plants is most often explained by their root or leafy discharge of substances and compounds that are poorly tolerated by species of other plants that can inhibit the growth of neighbors. Isolations of some plants have a specific depressant effect only on one or two other species. It is noticed that all the vegetables of the celery family - carrots, parsnips, parsley, celery - go well with the onion family - onion( species) and garlic. White and black radish are good for other vegetables.
Cultures are not just neighbors in the garden, but they also help each other to survive, promote mutual growth and development. In a number of cases, plants that grow in close proximity stimulate each other and exert mutual beneficial effects through the roots by the exchange of various substances in the composition of the root secretions. Favorable interference can also occur through the substances released by the foliage. Classic examples of plant assistants can be, for example:
carrots and onions - carrots drive away onion fly, onions protect carrots from carrot fly,
leeks and celery stimulate mutual growth, create a special atmosphere on the bed, favorablefor both crops,
maize and beans - beans improve the soil by enriching it with nitrogen; corn creates a windbreak for fragile beans and moderately absorbs nutrients from the soil,
dill and cabbage - dill with its strong spicy aroma masks the smell of cabbage and repels pests,
Both carrots and peas - peas improve soil condition, carrots drive away pests,
beans and radish, and beans help each other, mutuallystimulate growth, the bean improves the condition of the soil and the quality of the fruits of the growing crops,
spinach and tomatoes, spinach and radish - spinach roots favorably affect the soil, root precipitatescontain saponin, which stimulates the absorption of nutrients by growing crops, improves the quality of the fruit,
salad and radish - salad scares cruciferous flea, makes the taste of the root crops softer and more tender,
peas and leafy mustard - root extracts of mustardstimulate the growth of peas,
9632;: 9632; 9632;potatoes and horseradish - horseradish frightens potato bugs and syrups from potatoes.
Crop compatibility in mixed culture culture
| Salad | Tomato, cucumbers, beans, onion- | Onions discourage aphids;Beetroot, carrot;culture, | |
| chopping, spinach, strawberry, | Mutual Incentive Activities | creating shading | |
| peas, cabbage, radish, radish, onion | growth | ||
| Beans | Radish, tomatoes, celery, | Chaiber protects against black aphids; | Onion, garlic, fennel, horseradish |
| corn, cucumbers, potatoes, beet, cabbage, spinach, lettuce, chard, pumpkin, savory | mutual growth stimulation |
But there are also unsettling cultures, the neighborhood of which is in principle undesirable. For example, sage does not get along with onions, turnip suffers from the proximity of a walker, marigolds have a bad effect on beans, wormwood bitter - on most crops, especially peas and beans, tansy - on leaf cabbage, quinoa - on potatoes. Fennel refers to the so-called uncompact, or aggressive, cultures, and the neighborhood with it is not recommended.
There are cases of complete rejection of certain neighborhoods among vegetable crops. Such an unruly culture can be considered, for example, fennel, making impossible any combination in mixed plantings due to its negative influence on neighbors. Its presence for most cultures is depressing and extremely unfavorable and even capable of causing certain harm to tomatoes, spinach, and bush beans.
The adverse effect of neighboring crops can be expressed not only in poor tolerance of one culture of leaf and root secretions to another, but also in the emergence of the relationship of acute competition for water nutrients, light from a stronger culture, and this must also be taken into account. Based on the need for different cultures and your personal preferences, you can create a very diverse mix of cultures in mixed and compacted plantings.
Mixed plantings of cabbage and lettuce, kohlrabi, radish and spinach
Carrots, parsley, onions and radish
In this mixture, 5 rows of onions are sowed at a distance of 15 cm from each other. In the row between the plants of onion are sown several seeds, radish. Then, alternate rows of 2 rows of carrots and 2 rows of parsley are sown. All cultures get along well. After harvesting two neighboring crops( first radish, then onion), the remaining parsley and carrots grow on the whole ridge and by the end of summer give normally developed roots.
Broccoli, cabbage salad and parsley
In a 1 m wide row, parsley is sown in 3 rows, having 1 row in the middle of the bed, and 2 others at the edges, 5 cm from the edge of the ridge. In May, between rows of parsley, broccoli is sown in 2 rows. The distance between the plants in the row is 45 cm, and between the rows - 60 cm. After growing green, parsley is thinned, in order to plant the seedlings of the cabbage salad in a row 30-45 cm apart.
Head lettuce, kohlrabi, lettuce, radish and spinach
Joint cultivation of cucumber and dill
These vegetables are well compatible. Cultivate them on a 1 m wide ridge. Place 3 rows of kohlrabi alternately with a head of lettuce according to the scheme 33 x 25 cm. 2 rows of spinach can be sown between them. On the edges of the beds, another 1 leaf of lettuce is alternated with a small amount of radish at the rate of 1 seed in 10 cm. With this combination, a leaf salad helps scare off cruciferous fleas that infect kohlrabi and radish. The first to remove the spinach and radish, then ripen the first kochanchiki salad. With the cleaning of lettuce, you can wait a little. The last place is cleaned kohlrabi.
Strawberries, tomato, spinach, watercress, dill, savory, parsley
Mixed planting of beetroot and salad
Tomato and spinach in this variant favorably influence other cultures. On a ridge with a width of 1 mt in August, strawberries are planted in 2 rows at a distance of 50 cm, and in the spring of next year they sow vegetables. In the middle of the ridge, dill is sown in 1 row and 1 m in a row is planted on a tomato plant. To the left of this row 1 row of watercress is sown, and on the right - 1 row of spinach;on the edges of the ridge - parsley and savory annual. The first product is watercress, then spinach and dill. After that, the remaining vegetable plants begin to develop rapidly. Chaiber is used for food in fresh as well as in dried form, so they clean it as needed. In autumn, the remaining greens are cut for drying.
Cucumber and dill
Two rows of cucumber are sown on a ridge at a distance of 60 cm from each other, and dill between them and along the edges of the ridge. Joint cultivation of these crops not only has a good effect on their growth and yield, but allows for the collection of cucumbers immediately and to cut off the fennel necessary for pickling.
Types of lettuce and beet
Seedlings of head and lettuce are planted on the bed according to the scheme of 20-30 x 30 cm. After germination of salad seedlings between its rows, plant 20-30 day seedlings of beetroot( at a distance of 10-15 cm between plants in a row).After 30-40 days after planting, the salad is ready for harvesting. During this time the beet plants will take root well, develop and root crops will reach technical ripeness. As necessary, beetroot is chosen, the final harvesting of root crops is carried out at the end of September - the first ten days of October.
Some Rules for Combining Cultures in Mixed Landings of
It is necessary to take into account the biological characteristics of crops, their mutual influence on each other and overall compatibility.
The competition factor that occurs even with very favorable biological compatibility of crops should be compensated.
The principle of complementarity of crops can significantly reduce competition for light, moisture, nutrients and living space in the garden.
The principle of complementarity implies that plants with different requirements for light, nutrition, and place for full development should adjoin one bed.
It is necessary to combine cultures with high and low nutrient requirements. As the main one, you need to choose a culture with high requirements for the availability of nutrients and arrange it in the middle of the bed, where the food conditions are better. Less demanding accompanying culture can be assigned to the edges of the bed and row spacing,
For the purpose of regulating nutrition, a number of plants with a deep and shallow root system are located. They absorb food from different layers of soil. A deep root system( 1 m and more) is possessed by cabbage, carrots, radishes, beets, tomatoes, beans, beans, pumpkin, zucchini, tuber celery, leeks, chard. A small root system( 50 to 80 cm) has potatoes, cucumber, onions, kohlrabi, lettuce, spinach, chives, parsley, leaf celery, watercress, endive, radish, peas and corn.
To reduce the competition of crops for light is possible by combining plants of different shapes and with different needs in the area. Large sprawling plants of the main culture are combined with smaller compact plants of the accompanying culture, which is usually located in the aisles or along the edges of the bed. The cabbage cabbage, color, Brussels, Savoy, cucumber, legumes, zucchini, pepper, eggplant, tomato, beet, corn, celery require a large living space on the garden. The compactness of the structure is distinguished by kohlrabi, all kinds of onions, carrots, radishes, parsley, chard, parsnip and pea