Crop rotation

How to organize an elementary crop rotation in a small area? It depends on how many beds you can break on your six hundred square meters. The first in the queue is a cucumber, which requires the introduction of organic, in early spring it can be sealed with radish plantings.

Next year, this potato can be occupied by early potatoes or any of the crops: parsley, parsnip, celery.

For the third year, plant the cabbage on this bed, but beforehand add organic matter and necessarily calcium nitrate against the keel. First, compact the cabbage with spinach, and then sow the chervil.

The next in line is the beet, which needs liming of the soil before planting. Planting beet can be sealed early in the spring with a salad.

Then you plant onion on this patch of onion, but first add organic. Seal the onions with watercress.

Then the carrots wait for their turn. Her planting does not condense.

Next year, you need to add organic matter and plant zucchini. After them it would be good to plant peas or beans, and along the very edge in mid-July to plant radish.

In the next year, having produced a garden bed, sow any of the crops: turnips, radishes or swede, but you have to add organic water to the trout.

Next, you can add organic matter and plant the pepper under the shelter of a film stretched over the arc.

The last in line is garlic. After it, you need to return the cucumber again, throwing the organics. If this line seems too long for you, split it into two or three turns and scroll each group of cultures independently. For example, a cucumber-potato-cabbage-pepper. There are only four beds in the crop rotation.

You can make other options:

potato-cabbage-carrots or parsley-rasp, rutabag or radish-onion, garlic;

root crops-strawberries-strawberries-strawberries-cabbage-potatoes;

cabbage-carrots, beets, parsley-radish, turnips, radish-green crops, onions;

wild strawberry wild strawberry-strawberry-pea-green culture- garlic.

If you have one or two rows of vegetable beds, then you must make a crop rotation on one patch, populating it like a big communal apartment, taking care only that neighbors do not fight each other. You can pick them up by carefully reading the list of compatible plants.

For example, we plant beets, compacting it with an early radish, planted in the aisle rows before it is planted;When the beet grows up and it takes a lot of space, the radish will be cleaned and the beetroot will not hurt. Beetroot plant 1 -2 m of the garden, and then plant the seedlings of celery, just one row across the beds. Then you can plant a few plants of any cabbage, compacting the planting early planted spinach, then sow the carrots according to the scheme 5 x 5 cm only 1 m, after it on 1 m we will plant the onion-sowok, then you can plant the salad, and then you can put the parsley. When the place is freed from the salad, we will plant a late radish. Next year, all the cultures will move forward, and the beet will be at the end of the garden.

Most often, peppers, tomatoes and cucumbers are grown in greenhouses. Be sure to swap cucumbers with tomatoes every year, and pepper grows well next to tomato, in this case it does not touch aphids, but even more it likes cucumbers and perfectly feels close to them. So you can put it there and there.

Many gardeners noticed that plants develop much better in joint plantings( of course, if they are compatible), in addition, the number of beds can be significantly reduced. You can arrange beds differently.

We plant maize in one row in the center of the bed, on both sides of it - beans, and around the edges - carrots. Or alternate rows of corn with rows of ground cucumbers. The direction of the beds, as always, is north-south. Do not be afraid that cucumbers or beans will kill corn - it will not suffer from this neighborhood and at the same time protect the beans and cucumbers from the winds.

Or we plant a parsnip on the center, on both sides of it there is a short pea that does not require supports( it is planted with 2 peas together).Then on the sides of the pea - beets or late carrots, and at the very edge of the ranks of the bow - the crusher. A number of beans can be divided into plantings of strawberries, from this neighborhood the taste of berries improves, and planting one spinach plant among the four salad plants improves the taste of the latter.

Nasturtium and marigolds are friends of vegetables, disorienting with their smell of insects that fly around their side, since they do not find among them their breadwinners. Sow on the center of the bed an early carrot. When the time comes, drop cabbage seedlings on each side of her, alternating with marigolds, and plant nettle on the ends of the bed. Or plant a row in the center of the bed.cabbage, on the sides of it - beets, and the sides of the garden plant nasturtium. Or at the edges of the garden plant a celery, and in the center - a row of marigolds, to the sides of them - cauliflower.

The beds should be compacted, then there will be no room for weeds. For example, planting onion-sowok on the contour of the whole garden, intended for carrots. A series of carrots of an early variety alternate with seeding with rows of radish. When the radish is removed, instead of it you will sow rows of carrots of a late sort intended for storage, or you will take rows of beet seedlings. You can plant a salad on the bed, alternating it with rows of bush dill. When the salad is used, in its place, you must immediately spin the spinach.

You can sow a few turnips and parsley in the end of April, and after the turnip has been removed, a black trouser or a black radish should be placed in its place.

Landing leeks can be seasoned with radish in early summer, and spinach - at the end. There are many options.