Crop rotation but compost pile and organic cycle
In the summer, for the cultivation of early potato varieties, compost pile on the site of any vegetable bed or directly on the virgin land, especially if you have clay soil. The heap should be in the sun. The width of the heap is 80-100 cm, the height by the end of the summer must also reach 80-100 cm, and the length should be such as it will be. Compost pile should be covered with decorative plantings, so as not to callous eyes. Fill it you start from one side, gradually building it to the exit from the fence.
But it is possible on the site of the future heap, right in the virgin land, to make small holes on a half-shovel spade about 25 cm apart. In the second row, located at a distance of 40-50 cm from the first, make the same holes, placing them in a staggered manner with respect to the holes of the first row. Pre-well sprouted potatoes spread on the holes and sprinkle it with soil, taken from the holes. Top with dry hay, harvested from autumn, or dry leaves, but in no case straw - it will attract mice that will settle under it, and then they will eat young potato tubers.
If the potato sprouts appear above the hay before the end of the night frost, cover it with hay in addition so that the tops do not freeze. But even if this happens, nothing terrible will happen. From the axils of the leaves of the unfrozen part of the stems, new stems will go, just the harvest will be delayed for a week.
When frosts pass, hay can no longer be poured, but you will not be burdening the potatoes with soil, but with what you usually take out on the compost pile. That is, the potatoes will grow directly on a fresh compost pile. When planting tubers for them do not have to make anything. Do not feed or water the potatoes is not required all summer. Even in the driest weather, there is moisture in the rotting compost pile, and even pouring can be poured directly between the rows of potatoes.
When the flowers begin to fade, you can shoot the first tubers. To do this, just put on a rubber glove and just push the compost away from the bush. Clean, even tubers lie directly on the surface of the soil. Choose the largest and pushes the compost back. So "milk" your garden a couple of months. Compost pile you will not have all summer in vain to take a place under the sun, it will work.
Do not forget that early potato varieties are harvested early, no later than mid-August, otherwise the tubers will start to rot. This happens not only in the compost pile, but also when planting early potatoes in the usual way in the ground.
When you remove the potatoes, you will see that there is no virgin under it. All grass, including grass, disappeared under the layer of rotting mass of weeds and waste. Potato tops do not take anywhere, just scatter it on top of the heap, let it dry. The poison of solanine, which is contained in the tops, when it dries up, it does not penetrate the heap. So leave the compost for the winter, without hiding anything, so that the autumn rains soak it well. Next year, next start laying a new compost pile, and on the first plant a pumpkin or zucchini. You can use it for cucumbers. That the heat and moisture from the heap did not go away, in the spring( before the snow came down, otherwise the plant can dry up at the time of sowing), it should be covered with an old film fixed so that it does not take away the wind. The film can be either black or white, but spunbond or lutrasil is not suitable for this purpose.
Before sowing, remove the film, make in the heap holes the size of a three-liter jar, fill them with half fertile soil( you can remove 2-3 cm of the top layer from the greenhouse beds), do not apply anything to the soil, pour well and sow seeds in the holes. Then again cover the heap with film. Once the shoots reach the film, cut out the holes and shoot the shoots out. If there is a danger of frost, cover the plants with lutrasil on top. This concludes the work. No more watering, no podkarmlivat plants are not required. Under the film and a powerful foliage of pumpkin cultures, compost will mature in one season.
At the end of summer, cut off the fertilized aerial part and transfer it to a new compost pile folded over the summer. Remain the remains of the root system in place, they are eaten by worms.
Next year, having made additional holes in the film and adding to each of them 1 des.a spoonful of calcium nitrate and 0.5 tsp AVA, plant any seedlings of cabbage, except for Peking and kohlrabi. To feed cabbage it will be necessary in the second half of the summer only by microelements( if at landing do not insert AVA).It is best to make one or two top-dressing on the leaves, using "Florist" or "Uniflor-bud" preparations( 4 teaspoons per 10 liters of water).To water it is necessary, only if there is a hot, dry weather. Water should be poured into the holes in the film under the root, and in very hot weather in the early morning - to pour the cabbage directly over the "head" with cold water from the well. At the end of the season, the leaves of cabbage and its roots( if there is no keel) should be left on the bed, and the cut stalk should be transferred to a new compost pile folded over the summer. The film will have to be removed, leaving it only on the sides of the bed.
Next year, the pumpkin cultures will move to a new compost pile, the cabbage will move to their place, and in its place you can plant on the bed in the usual way podrochennye tubers of early potatoes or onions on the turnip. If you plant a bow, then add a pellet of AVA fertilizer under each bulb. You can plant the onion by alternating it with the rows of carrots sown as follows: 1 teaspoon of seeds mixed with 1 teaspoon of AVA dust fraction and 0.5 cups of fine sand( or dry coffee grounds) and "seasoned" with this mixture the prepared grooves. With this sowing carrots do not thicken, and it does not have to be weeded. You can sow the garden with carrots and after harvesting onions.
Once again I draw your attention to the fact that after removing the film, only the harvest is removed from the bed, and all other parts of the plant are left on the bed and in the soil. Moreover, in the autumn they also throw leaves or weeded weeds.
For another year, the bed can be used for salad, dill, parsley. These cultures are not fed and not watered.
The next year, the earliest spring can be planted with radish, and after harvesting it in early summer, plant a strawberry mustache. Strawberries must be planted thicker than accepted, that is, plant a mustache in the middle of the garden in one row at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other. In each hole during planting, it is necessary to add 0.3 parts of a spoonful of AVA granular fertilizer, then the strawberries will no longer require any additional fertilization for three years. To avoid dealing with weeding, roll out a roll of paper from both sides of the strawberry, glued together from several layers of newspapers. When the strawberry will give a mustache, make holes in the newspaper so that the mustache takes root, and leave it to winter. In the spring there will be almost no newspapers, but there will be no room for weed growth, since the strawberries will occupy all the free space.
Do not do anything with the plantation. It should not be fed and watered, except for very hot and dry weather in spring and early summer. Fertilizers it will last for three years, and under a continuous canopy of its own leaves, it will retain moisture in the soil. The only thing that is required in the early spring is to spray the plantation with the drug "Phytoverm" against the weevil, as well as a mixture of "Zircon" and "Epin-extras"( 2 drops each per 1 liter of water) before flowering strawberries to protect it from pathogensand frost. But after harvesting, pour all the plantings with "Phytosporin" to disinfect both foliage and soil.
There are no pathogens on the leaves of plants so treated, in particular, gray rot or white spot, so there is no need to remove leaves from the plantation. They give a quantity of organic, sufficient to not only cover the strawberries with their own fur coat, but also to feed it. In addition, the old leaves serve as a layer between the soil in which the fungus, a causative agent of gray rot, and berries live. So, you do not need to put any supports under berries. Let the strawberries grow on their own.
After three or four years, the harvest on the strawberry patch will begin to fall. When you remove it, then simply skew the oblique, or even better, Fokine flat-top, dipping into the soil for 2-3 cm, all strawberries. Leave the leaves on the bed and begin to add compost to this place.
Then everything will be repeated again.
All this scheme should be used on sand. Only under compost on the sand should be laid roofing paper or an old film in several layers, so that nutrients do not go through the sand.
If you have a perfectly acceptable soil, then its fertility will gradually recover or improve with time if you annually plant late-summer loose white mustard and leave all plant residues after harvesting in the bed, rather than drag them into the compost. In the spring, only slightly dig the soil to a depth of 5 cm and immediately sow the seedbed with seeds of cultivated plants.
The crop rotation can be left the same as on the compost pile, but before planting each crop, a little "Bogorodsk land" and 0.3 parts of a spoonful of the AVA fertilizer powder fraction should be added to the well.
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What is this in "Bogorodskaya Zemlitsa" such? This soil is full of useful microorganisms. It is the quantity of microorganisms that live in the soil that determines its fertility, most microorganisms die in the winter in the upper soil layer, some part of them, of course, will remain and multiply, but they will reach the required numbers only by the end of the season. If you take a bag of such soil in the autumn, before frosts, and put it in the cellar, the microorganisms will be perfectly preserved and multiplied over the winter. It is especially good to take such soil from the pereprevshego compost, which was made "Compostin", "Revival", "Baikal-EM" or "Shine."They are just populating the soil with useful bacteria that improve the fertility of the earth. To make these preparations follows in the spring, after the termination of spring frosts, or in the beginning of summer, but.not later, otherwise the bacteria will not have time to multiply in sufficient quantity. Unfortunately, these beneficial bacteria can die even at a temperature of -1 degrees, as well as at a temperature above 23 degrees Celsius. Many failures are associated with the violation of the temperature regime during the transportation, storage and use of these drugs.(This does not apply to "Compostin", which "works" in the range from -40 to +40 degrees.)
And where does this name come from - Bogorodskaya Zemlya? In the past, it was given to the peasants in the spring to improve the soil of the monasteries. The soil, since spring inhabited by microorganisms, yielded increased yields. Then there were no chemical fertilizers, and the yields were better than ours.
In St. Petersburg, a wonderful scientist OA Arkhipchenko works, which created biologically active fertilizers "Bamil"( based on fermentation of Mullein) and "Omug"( based on fermentation of bird droppings).They also populate the soil with useful microorganisms that contribute to its improvement. They are added to 1 teaspoon per well in the planting of seedlings in the soil or a greenhouse. These fertilizers should be used during the summer and do not leave to winter on the site.
Do not shovel the fallen foliage, leave it under the plantings, leave weed or cut weeds under the plants and under the plants, after harvesting, do not carry the above-ground part of the plants( except for very thick and dense stems) to the compost, leave the roots of the planted plants in the ground. Take from the beds only yield. Organic will rot and saturate the soil with humus for the next generation of plants. This is the organic circuit on the site.
So, the soil needs to be populated with useful microorganisms and for their sustenance to systematically introduce into the surface layer the non-permeated organics, in particular, the green mass of mown grass or weeds.
Organic contains almost all the basic mineral elements necessary for plant nutrition. Very little micronutrient supplements will be required, mainly those that are not present in the soils of this area.