Onion

The onion comes from Asia, hence the requirements for growing conditions: dryness of air and soil at the time of ripening of the bulb, good light, fertile soils. Onions need fertile, organic soils with a slightly alkaline reaction pH 6.0-6.5, good lighting, so it should be planted in open areas, all day illuminated by the sun. Dense clays or loams, sour soil does not suit him, he does not like the onion of fresh manure, excessive doses of nitrogen, excessive humidity of soil and air.

Of the new varieties onions are good Ala, Alice Craig( salad), Cirque and Farmer( meadow varieties) and hybrids Sharon, Corona, Spirit, Cortland. There are white bows Albion, Gladstone, as well as red Red Baron and Red Beauty. For podzimnego sowing most suitable Swift, Radar, Music, Electric. Of the varieties of onions intended for a feather, one can advise Nagaoka King( early), Nubuka Greene.

Onions are planted during the flowering of bird cherry.

Before planting the soil should be filled with organic( bucket per meter of planting), adding to each meter 1 tbsp.spoon azofoski. In addition, ash or lime should be added, so that the soil has a slightly alkaline reaction( application rates depend on your soil).The soil should be dig deep.

Bulbs folded into a plastic bag, sprinkle carbofos into it to destroy the pest larvae, and tie the package. After a day, the bulbs are removed and lowered for half an hour into a pink solution of potassium permanganate to destroy the pathogens that may be found on the onion husks. There is a special preparation "Maxim", in the solution of which it is recommended to soak any bulbous cultures against rotting before planting for half an hour.

If you plant a bow to get green, then cut off the tip at the turnip. If you grow onions to turnips, then do not do this.

There should not be too much moisture around the bulb, so you need to do the microdrain. For this, before planting, it is necessary to form trenches with a depth of about 5-7 cm and pour a layer of sand 2 cm thick on the bottom of each trench. Put the bulbs on the sand at a distance of 12-15 cm from each other, placing one granule of AVA fertilizer under the bottom of each bulb, then pour turnip on 314 heights with sand. Fill the rest of the trench between the bulbs with soil. The top of the bulbs should stick out over the surface of the soil. The distance between the trenches is 15-20 cm.

Just in case the landing should be covered with lutrasil, which will protect them from frost and at the same time from onion pests. Although the onion and can withstand frosts to -5. ..- 6 degrees, but the frostbitten onion usually goes into the arrow and does not form new bulbs.

Agronorm in onion 19, and the balance between nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is 43: 14: 43, that is, there are not so many nutrients left from the soil.

When night frosts pass, the onion can be supplemented with infusion of weeds or a solution of urea( 3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water).But it is best to give nitrogen fertilization with a solution of a mixture of calcium and potassium nitrate in 1 tbsp.spoon each fertilizer per 10 liters of water.

When the onion forms 5-6 leaves, it is necessary to give top dressing with phosphorus and potassium, 1 tbsp.each for 10 liters of water. In dry weather, fertilizing is done in watering, and when wet, sprinkle the fertilizers in row-spacing dry and close up in the soil. Try not to hurry up and add fuel to the plant, and do not pour over the leaves from the watering can. All top dressing and watering should be done in the evening, while in dry weather before feeding it is necessary to water the plants with water.

Do not feed onions with fresh manure. Since the manure decomposes slowly, when applied during planting, the onion is lacking nitrogen, namely, it needs an initial period during the growth of the pen.

With the further decomposition of manure in the middle of summer, there is an excess of nitrogen in the soil, and the onion receives too much. The pen stands as a wall, powerful, green with a bluish tint, but the bulbs are not tied, because with excess nitrogen, there is no outflow of nutrients from the pen to the bulb. The bulb late ripens and is poorly stored. When introducing fresh manure, it is possible to avoid diseases of onion rot. If the soil is poor, then before planting onion humus, but not fresh manure.

Onions are regularly watered in the first half of the summer. In the second half of the summer, from the beginning of the year, all watering should be stopped, and the aisles regularly loosen. If it rains, then over the planting of onions should install a tunnel of film to avoid excessive moisture in the soil.

If the bow bows long green, it can not be broken or rolled, as it is often recommended. The leaves will break down, and the infection will penetrate into the wound - this bow will not be stored in the winter. On the scent of onions pests will appear and populate the feather and onion. In addition, you have broken the pen, and the roots continue to function, which means that the pen will again grow. To stop the growth of the pen and cause its lodging, you just need to limit the access of moisture to the leaves. To do this, from the bulbs rake the soil and gently cut the excess roots with a sharp knife, as they do in celery. By the way, this method saves onions from the onion fly, which flies a second time from the middle of July to mid-August. After raking away the soil from the onions, planting onions should be poured with a solution of table salt( 1 glass per 10 liters of water).

What should I look for when growing onions?

He can not cut or peel a feather, in this case you will not be able to grow a large bulb. First, all plants, as in a pantry, lay a supply of nutrients in the leaves, from which they then take this stock to build up fruits, bulbs, root crops and so on. Taking a pen, you force the onion to raise it again to fill its pantries, and the laying of the bulbs is postponed. For greenery, it is necessary to grow onions separately from the nest or cut off the pen from perennial onions that do not form bulbs.

Often the onions and garlic have white tips of leaves. The reasons for this phenomenon can be several.

1. Sour soil, you need to urgently deoxidize it. To do this, take 3 tbsp.spoon of calcium nitrate, dilute in 10 liters of water and pour out for each plant at least a glass. If you do not have calcium nitrate, use lime( 1 glass per 10 liters of water).Usually, I recommend using dolomite or chalk to deoxidize the soil, but they dissolve only in acidic medium, therefore, as soon as the soil becomes neutral, further dissolution will cease. For onions, a slightly alkaline soil is required. You can use ash instead of lime - dilute 2 cups with boiling water, stir and pour into a bucket of water.

2. Onions are lacking nitrogen. In this case, the leaves not only have white tips, but they themselves have a slightly yellowish or light green color. The fastest fertilizing: - sprinkle the leaves in the evening with ammonia( 3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) or top dressing with calcium nitrate( 3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water).

3. When whitening only the tips of the leaves, the plant lacks copper. Most often this occurs on peat soils or when peat is used to create soil. It is necessary to pour the soil under the plants with a solution of "Hom"( copper oxychloride), dissolving 1 teaspoon of the preparation in 5 liters of water( 0.1% solution).You can also use "Oxihom", "Polichom", copper vitriol or Bordeaux liquid.

4. The tips of the leaves can whiten with a lack of potassium. At the same time, the sheet is slightly twisted. In this case it is necessary to make potassium top dressing. Onions and garlic tolerate chlorine quite well, so potassium chloride or any other potassium-containing fertilizer( 3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water, per cup of fertilizer per plant) can be used. Sometimes it is recommended to use potassium manganese as a potassium fertilizer. But you should know that this preparation very strongly acidifies the soil, in addition, manganese kills all living things, including useful microorganisms in the soil. Therefore, it can only be used in the form of a slightly pink solution over the leaves. Potassium, this drug contains little, and manganese a lot.

5. Another possible reason for whitening the tips of the leaves is frost. In this case, the whole stalk along with the leaves becomes light. If the plant gets under frost, it helps to feed calcium or potassium nitrate( 3 tablespoons of one or the other for 10 liters of water).Of course, you can use urea in the same proportion or infusion of weeds. But urea can be used only if the frosts have passed, since pure nitrogen reduces the frost resistance of plants, and they are already thoroughly frozen.

Remove onions in a dry, sunny morning. They let him lie down for a few hours in the sun directly on the bed, then transferred to a dry ventilated room to dry. You can tie a feather into loose beams and hang it up with roots. When the onion dries, the roots should be cut without affecting the bottom. Excess hull should be exfoliated. You can braid the dried herbs in a braid and hang the onions for winter storage in a dry room. You can cut off the greens, and put the onion in storage in bags of cloth and hang around the battery.

Storage temperature is very important. It should be at least 20 degrees if you store onions in an apartment. When storing onions in storage, the temperature there is maintained at about 4 degrees Celsius. If you store onions at a temperature of 12 to 18 degrees, it will lay the flower arrows and everything will go into color.

If rainy weather is raining, then onions must be rinsed after digging, immediately peeled off all the husks and feathers, cut off the roots, and spread the onion in a dry, ventilated room in one row. After 2-3 weeks, the naked bulbs will be dressed in a new golden shirt in just one layer. Such onions are well kept simply in a box on the kitchen cupboard. It is clean, without excess shell. In addition, bulbs with a thick, unclosed neck are very clearly visible. They must be rejected and immediately used for food or workpieces. There are no pests or diseases on such bulbs without a husk. This technique can be used in any weather, not only in the rainy season.

You can grow a bow from the net. Small bulbs grow from small seeds. Usually in the small sowing flower arrows are not laid, and such a bow does not bloom. A large sevok is called a sample. There are floral arrows in it, and it can throw out a flower arrow if stored incorrectly or freezes.

A small seedling can be planted before the turnip, around May 7-10, and the samples are the same as the turnip, during the flowering of bird cherry.

The seedling is usually planted at a distance of 5 cm from each other, then it is thinned so that there is a distance of 10 cm between the bulbs. 15-20 cm is left between the rows so that the soil can be loosened.

Before planting, make furrows 3-4 cm deep, pour sand in them 2-3 cm high, "salt" the grooves with AVA fertilizer powder, or put one pellet of this fertilizer under each onion, disintegrate the bulbs and fill them with a mixture of sand and soil. When applying fertilizer AVA, no fertilizing of the seedling will be required any more, except for irrigation infusion of weeds prior to the onset of ia. When planting the sowing, they lower the hangers.

You can treat the seedling in the same way as the onion-cutter before planting: first hold the day in a plastic bag where carbofos is injected. Then hold it for 30 minutes in a solution of copper sulfate( 1 teaspoon per 2 liters of water) or in a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate.

The arrow, if it appears, should be broken as early as possible. A pen should not be taken. If you really need a pen, do not cut or cut it, but undress the bulb, taking off the edge leaves to the soil itself.

Watering onions on leaves is not recommended. Watering should be done under the root and only in the initial period of growth in dry weather. I remind you once again: in the second period of growth, watering should not be done, and if there is rain, then it is necessary to put a tunnel cover over the plantings.

It is best to water onions not in beds, but along the aisles between them. Water is absorbed by the soil from below and falls into the root zone, but the bulb itself remains dry. Plants with onions should not be watered, but rather loosen in rows. The surface of the soil on the bed during the loosening remains dry, weeds do not grow on it, the water does not evaporate from the lower layers, and a crust is not formed on the surface. On dry soil, the onion fly larva dries up and does not damage the bulb.

For planting onion beds, it is best to make a height of 15-20 cm, about a meter wide, and leave the passages between the beds wide - also about a meter.

It should be planted on the turnpike, and planted separately on the greens separately a couple of square meters of illiquid goods, that is, a small thing that will not give a good turner anyway, or especially plant greens that do not form bulbs, or grow specially onions for greens from blackies(seeds) of special varieties( for example, Parade).These bows do not lay turnips, but they form a large bush of greenery.

You can grow your seed from seed. Onion seeds are black, so they are called "blackies".Seeds have a poor germination and are stored no more than 2-4 years. You can soak the seeds in the growth stimulators before sowing and then keep them in a damp rag before pecking, then sow in prepared grooves 2 to 3 cm deep, located at a distance of 20 cm from each other. Seedlings appear after about 7-10 days in the form of a long loop. At this point, it is necessary to make weeding, otherwise then, when the pen is straightened, you can not distinguish it from the shoots of the grass. After the emergence of shoots, the onion should be supplemented with infusion of weeds or manure, and when three real leaves appear on the onion - full mineral fertilizer( for example, 3 tablespoons of Azofoski for 10 liters of water).

Onion from the seeds - the plant is cold-resistant, so it can be sown in the open ground as soon as the mother-and-stepmother blooms, along with all cold-resistant crops( carrots, radishes, parsley, celery, dill, salad, spinach).As the seeds of onions have poor germination, the crops should be made thickened. As the onion grows, the onion is thinned, leaving a distance of 1 cm between the shoots in the 2-3 leaf stage, then, with 4-5 leaves, the distance should be at least 4-5 cm. With the second thinning, the pulled out plants can already be used for writing.

Seeding is continued till the middle of June, watering is done as needed. After June 15, feeding and watering stop.

When the feather begins to lie, the onions are dug out and dried in a suspended state by the roots upwards, loosely tying small bunches of onions. After drying, cut off the roots and dried feather, cull all the bulbs that are less than 1 cm in diameter. Large bulbs( samples) and smaller( seed) are stored separately. The discarded small onions, whose diameter is less than 1 cm, will not be preserved in winter - they will dry up, that's why they are used for sub-winter planting. They are sown at the end of September and the beginning of October to a depth of 3-4 cm. Some of them will die in winter, and the remainder will give early spring greens for food. Do not forget only in the spring, after the emergence of seedlings, to remove the soil from the bulbs so that the top appears above the soil, otherwise bulbs can rot in the soil at its high humidity. Small onions can be marinated like mushrooms. This is a very tasty snack.

You can sow the "chernushka" differently. First we pre-grow weeds on the beds, they are covered with old film as early as possible. After emergence of shoots of weeds, the film is removed, the soil is loosened and for the night is left open. Shoots of weeds will die. Again, they cover the bed, after the appearance of the next batch of weeds, the film is removed, the shoots are loosened and leave the garden bed open at night. Now there are no weeds in the upper layer of soil with a depth of about 5 cm. It is impossible to dig such a weed-free garden, otherwise you will carry out seeds of weeds from the deep layers and they will fill the bed. You can only loosen it loosely.

After that, the edges of the board are made with grooves 2 to 3 cm deep at a distance of 10 cm from each other. Water these grooves first with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate to disinfect the soil, then pour grooves with a solution of calcium nitrate( 3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) to make the soil slightly alkaline and, in addition, to introduce into it the nitrogen required in the initialonion growth stage.1 tsp dry onion seeds are mixed with 1 teaspoon dust fraction of AVA fertilizer and 1/2 cup of river sand, then sow as if the groove salt with this mixture. With this sowing, you do not need to do the first thinning of sprouts, you do not have to weed and do not have to feed all summer.

Crops should be covered with old film before the emergence of the shoots in order to keep the soil warm and moist. But, as soon as the onion has risen, the film should be immediately removed, otherwise on sunny days the shoots under it may burn. Instead of a film, the bed should be covered with lutrasil or spunbond and do not remove the shelter until the beginning of June. If there is dry weather, it is necessary to do watering directly on the shelter.

It is possible to grow quite a decent turnip of onion from seeds for one season, if you previously grow onion seedlings. Seed sowing should be done at home in mid-March. At the age of 30 days, it must be broken down into individual cups and planted in the middle of May in the garden. Landing is covered with lutrasil until the beginning of June.

What are pests onions? Dangerous for him onion fly. If the lightening of the whole plant and the order of the tips of the leaves occurred after the spring frosts had passed, the reason is not that of freezing, but that the onion fly larvae were damaged. Vegetable flies for the first time fly in the spring, during cherry blossoms, the second time in the summer, simultaneously with a butterfly whiting( around mid-July).

The easiest way to protect against flies is to land onions( garlic does not damage the fly), covering them with a spunbond or other non-woven material during the flight of pests. During the second flight, as already mentioned above, we must remove the soil from the bulbs and water the plantings with a solution of salt. In a dry summer, this is not required, since the fly larva, deposited on the soil near the bulb, dries up and dies. Flies are dangerous in a wet summer.

The beetle secretly caries the feather and cuts the larva into the leaf. It eats away the flesh of the leaf, and it is clearly visible, in addition, the "seams" appearing on the site of the cuts of the leaves are also visible.

Because the pest is inside the sheet, all external preparations are not suitable. You need drugs that are absorbed by the leaf. The safest ones are "Fitoverm" and "Agravertin".After 48 hours after treatment, any of them can be used for food. On the absorption of the drug takes about 3-4 hours, so after spraying during this time there should be no rain. If the rain still went, then the treated planting should be covered with a film.

The most common onion disease is downy mildew, which appears as a greyish plaque on the leaves. Then rusty spots appear, which rot. It is well assisted by spraying with biological preparations "Phytosporin" or "Phyto-plus".2 days after spraying, the onion can be consumed as food. Effective and preparations containing copper( copper vitriol, copper oxychloride or Bordeaux liquid), but after spraying them onions can not be used in writing for 3 weeks.

Rust onion develops mainly in the southern regions. The disease manifests itself in the form of yellow strokes on the leaves. Help the same drugs as against powdery mildew.

Another common disease of onions is cervical decay. It usually affects the onions already when stored. Penetrates the pathogen in the unclosed "thick" neck of the bulb. Most often it happens in a rainy summer. Such bulbs can not be stored, because they will rot anyway, so they should be used immediately after harvesting for winter preparations.

When stored, the onions are often affected by the smut. There is a disease in the form of black strokes between the onion plates. Spores of the fungus remain between the scales. If you cut the onion bow before storing for storage, then practically all the pathogens of the onion mushroom diseases remained among the ejected scales.

Dozen rot most often affects onions and garlic in the southern regions. Usually, the rot of the Don is provoked by the onion fly, which damaged the bulb. The bulb softens and rot during storage. Before laying on the storage bulbs you need to strip naked. If among them there were patients - sprinkle before drying "Phytosporin".

Mosaic, jaundice, verticidal wilt of onion - incurable viral diseases. The onion is to be destroyed by burning. Planting on this place can not be 4-6 years old.