Preparatory work for planting grapes
The planting site of the grapes is cleaned of weeds, debris, pits are covered with soil, the bumps are leveled. Low-value bushes and trees are removed;If branches of adult trees hang over the landing site, they are shortened.
To protect future landings from cold winds, dust( when located near a road) it is advisable to plant trees or shrubs.
Soil preparation is the most important element when laying a vineyard. The best results are obtained with a deep digging of the soil( by 60-70 cm) with the formation rotation in its area or a strip along the future rows( ribbon plantation) with the imposition of organic and mineral fertilizers. However, this work is very labor-intensive, so it is practically not used on household plots.
Usually plants are planted in pits. Depending on the conditions, the pit is covered with soil with a mixture of organic matter, gravel, sand, which must be prepared in advance. So, on the loamy soils of the Moscow region, an optimum mixture of sand, crushed stone, humus and local soil, taken in one piece;on sandy and sandy loamy soils of the Astrakhan region - a mixture of humus and local soil is also one part. The soil in the planting pit must be loose and rich in nutrients.
In many areas, particularly in the Central Non-Black Earth, soils are predominantly poor, acidic. To eliminate the acidity of the soil, liming is used based on pH data. The acidity of the soil can be determined with the aid of the Alyamovsky device or in the institutions of the agrochemical service.
For example, at pH 4.5 and below the application rate of ground limestone( kg / 10 m2) will be: on sandy loam and light loamy soils - 4;medium and heavy loam - 6;at pH more than 4.5( up to 5.2) - respectively 2 and 4;at a pH of more than 5.2( up to 6.5) liming should be carried out only on medium and heavy loamy soils.
You can use chalk, wood ash( 2-10 times more than limestone) or slaked lime( 1.5 times less limestone), spreading over the soil surface, under a digging site.
If the groundwater is closer than 1.5 m, it is necessary to arrange a drainage system on the site.
Preparing for the trellis device( support system) is to calculate the material requirements for a particular support system( trellis, gazebos, and wall) and purchase them.
The material for the support can be ordinary tapestry wire, wooden, iron or reinforced concrete posts 2-2.4 m long.
The service life of wooden poles depends on the strength of the wood. Pillars of acacia, gledicia, chestnut, larch serve about 20 years, from oak - about 10-15 years. Less stable pillars of aspen, ash, spruce( 4-6 years), quite fragile - from birch, alder, poplar, linden, maple.
Before installation, wooden poles are cleaned from the bark, the lower end is waxed, burned or smeared with hot resin to prevent rapid decay.
The best result is the treatment of stakes with a 5-6% solution of copper sulfate. The bark is preliminarily cleaned, the lower ends of the stakes are serrated and immersed 30-50 cm in a tub with a solution for 10 days, then the ends are smeared with resin.
Conventional iron or asbestos-cement pipes with a length of 3-4 m( the bearing part of the system) are more suitable for the gazebo system, iron rods of various diameters or wooden crossbeams, rails, and wire are for horizontal placement. Supports of metal are covered with oil paint.
Preparation of grapes seedlings for planting: with dashes and the number "1" shows the removed parts of growth and roots
It is desirable to equip the support system well in advance of planting the grapes. Preparation of planting material. The seedlings are cut off before planting in a permanent place. If two shoots developed on the seedling, each one is cut to 2-3 eyes, if one is for 3-4 eyes. In the presence of well-ripe stepsons on the shoot, the lower 1-2 are left, cutting off the eye for 2-3.
Heel roots are cut by 10-12 cm on saplings, preferably by 18-20 cm. If no shortening is required, the root tips are updated with a cut. On the second node from below, the roots are left if they are small or weak on the heel. - On the remaining nodes, the roots are removed.
Only full-value seedlings should be planted. The matured part of the main shoot should be not less than 10-12 cm, its diameter between the second and fourth internodes - more than 4 mm, well developed heel roots - not less than three, the grafted seedlings should have a circular callus, the total length of the seedling( after pruning) from"Heels" to the top - about 50 cm.
Depending on the moisture content of the seedlings, they are soaked for 1-2 days in water at a temperature of 18-20 ° C.Then they put on polyethylene casing to isolate the cornestamb from the soil in the middle and upper parts( the length of the case is 35-40 cm, width is 10 cm, the bottom is not).This eliminates the need for rolling, reduces the risk of infection with shrubs phylloxera, the roots develop in deeper horizons.
Before planting, the roots of the seedlings are lowered for better survival in the dung-clay chattle( two parts of the clay are taken from one part of the mullein, diluted with water to a creamy mass), and after the run-off the drill is planted without drying the roots.
Cuttings are prepared as follows. Several days before the landing, standard cuttings( length about 50 cm, diameter 7-13 mm) update the sections. On the underside of the cuttings, at a distance of 10-15 cm from the "heel", furrowing is carried out, that is, scratching up to 2 mm deep, using a serrated surface of the grape file or a special device;remove the lower 2-3 eyes with a sharp knife;soaked in water for 1-3 days depending on the initial humidity;the best results are achieved if, when soaking the bottom, add a rooting stimulator - heteroauxin, sodium humate 3 g per 10 liters of water or 40 g honey bees per 10 liters of water.
Seedling in a case ready for planting
Felling device for cuttings
For kilts cuttings these operations are carried out 2-3 weeks before planting.
If cuttings are fresh, healthy, then you can limit them to soaking them in warm water within 24 hours after the lower sections are refreshed.
Instead of cuttings, you can also use vines up to 1.5 m long, sewing their lower end at the bottom of the pit into a spiral. In this case, plants are more powerful.
Harvest cuttings in autumn after harvesting grapes. The best results are obtained when cutting cuttings from fruit-bearing shoots. The lower cut is best done directly under the node of the lower ocellus, the upper one - 2-3 cm above the upper eye, with the total length of the cut about 50 cm( the tendrils and stepchildren before removal of the cuttings are removed).
You can store cuttings and seedlings before planting in moist soil, but preferably in sand, at a depth below freezing of soil in a given area. For the purpose of protection from mold, they should be treated with 5% ferrous sulfate solution or 0.5% quinazole solution before laying for long storage, by immersion for 2-3 hours.
Cuttings can be stored in a dry, cool basement( optimal temperature 1-5 ° C), wrapping them with a wet burlap and wrapped in polyethylene film. During the winter, the condition of the cuttings is checked at least 2-3 times. In the case of mold detection, it is removed by rubbing the cuttings( saplings) followed by a brief airing, after which they are again packed. When drying sacking, it is slightly moistened, when mold is present, it is better to replace it with a new one. Good results are obtained by washing moldy cuttings in a pink solution of potassium permanganate.
Sometimes, in order to accelerate the laying of the vineyard, do not plant seedlings, but cuttings. In this case cuttings should be prepared by killing them.
Kilchevanie is an agrotechnical technique used in viticulture in the production of planting material to accelerate the formation of root rudiments on the basal part of the cuttings with a simultaneous delay in the opening of the ocelli. The lower end of the cut is exposed to an elevated temperature( 26-28 ° C) and humidity( 85-90%), while its apical end is at a reduced temperature. This method provides a better survival of the cuttings when they are planted.
The simplest method of kilting is as follows. Autumn dig a hole size of 60x50x50cm. The bottom is covered with a thin layer of straw. Over the winter, two times in the pit fall asleep and trample down the snow, also interlaying the straw.
About two to three weeks before planting( when the soil is heated to 10-12 ° C at a depth of 30-40 cm), the excess straw is removed, leaving a thin layer over the snow trampled earlier. It is laid on the lower ends, previously soaked in water for 1.5-2 days, bound in bundles of cuttings. The gaps between them are filled and the top is covered with a thin layer of soil( sawdust), and on it - horse manure, which is covered with film, roofing material or other material. Kilchevanie lasts two weeks. In the absence of horse manure, other ways of raising the temperature are found, even before the electric bulb is switched on in the pit covered by the lid. During the kilts, cuttings should be watered
every 2-3 days to avoid their drying out. The indicator of a good kilting is the presence of callus tubercles with roots up to 2-5 mm on the heels. The presence of long roots adversely affects the survival of cuttings.
When planted in unheated soil, callus dies and retarded the development of roots.