Quality of planting material
| Culture | Age Culture Product grade Above ground part( cm) Root system Bread height Bore diameter Length of main branches Number of basic roots Length, cm Apple tree and pear( on 2 1 60-80 1,8 30-50 2 60-80 1,6 20-40 3 25 1 1 130 * 1,2 - 5 25 2 110 * 1,0 - 3 20 Apple tree( on clonal rootstocks) 2 1 50-60 1,6 20 5 25 2 50-60 1,3 20 3 25 1 1 110 * 1,0 - 5 25 2 90 * 0,8 - 3 20 Cherries and plums 2 1 50-60 1.7 50 5 30 2 50-60 1,5 40 3 25 1 1 150 * 1,2 - 5 25 2 120 * 1.0 - 3 20 |
An important issue is the commercial quality of the planting material. For each type of seedlings there are industry standards( Table), which determine: the age of the plants( usually 1-2 summer), height, number of branches and their diameter, length and number of roots. What should I look for first of all when choosing seedlings? Of course, the root system and the diameter of the stem or shoot( in strawberry - horn).
There is a general rule: the more powerful the roots( in number, length, branching and fibrous) and the smaller the above-ground part, the greater the guarantee of plant survival and successful growth.
Typically, when the plants are excavated from the soil, the seedlings retain, at best, one third of the root system that was formed during cultivation.
Requirements to commercial qualities of planting stock of fruit crops( for the middle zone)
* Height of one-year-olds. The above-ground part can be cut to the specified height.
Another important parameter of seedlings is their age. Practice shows that the more the plant is transplanted at a younger age, the better it gets accustomed and grows faster.
Ideal case - sowing or planting the rootstock to a permanent place of growth with subsequent grafting of the variety, i.e.without transplanting a high-quality seedlings.
Unusual advice. In this respect, a good way to plant lignified cuttings of currant to a permanent place. To do this, prepare the soil for planting, applying organic and mineral fertilizers, abundantly pour water on the landing site, cover them with a film( light or dark), make a 10 cm film in the film, into which and slant 2 cuttings cross to the cross. This should be done after September 15( for the red currant - a little early, because her cuttings are more difficult to take root).It should be noted that cuttings from 1-year-old shoots must be cut only from healthy shrubs that are not affected by the kidney mite. Cuttings should be thick enough( not thinner than a pencil), 15-20 cm long. When planting above the soil surface, 1-2 kidneys should remain( no more).The next year, a 1-year-old plant will develop from these cuttings, which in 1-2 years( depending on the variety) will bring the first harvest.
Unusual advice. To prevent the emergence of lignified cuttings of currant( as observed in the fall planting), two methods can be used:
a) planting cuttings not to be inclined, but parallel to the soil surface at the base of the previously prepared ridges. At the same time, as usual, 1-2 upper buds should not be buried in the soil;B) The lignified shoot( without cutting it into cuttings), bend the ring, joining the ends, and plant it in the soil so that 3-4 kidneys remain on the soil surface.
After planting( immediately in autumn or next spring), a 1-year-old standard seedling is recommended( for example, apple trees at a height of not less than 1.2 m) to be cut off, leaving only a 70-centimeter shoot. This restores the correlation between the root system lost during digging and the aerial part of the plant. For 1-2-year-old seedlings of berry bushes for this purpose, it is necessary to shorten all shoots, leaving 3-4 buds on each of them. But the raspberry scions should be cut to a height of 10-20 cm, which is necessary rather for the convenience of planting. In all these cases, there is hope for a good growth of shoots in planted plants for the next year.
In saplings with a closed root system( grown in containers), all roots are retained during transplantation. This is a great advantage of such planting material.
It is often necessary temporarily( within 7-10 days) to keep the acquired seedlings in a viable state before planting. The most important thing here is not to allow drying of the roots. To do this, the roots should be dipped into the soil-clay chattle( the density of sour cream), then overlaid with any moist material( soil, peat, sawdust, rags, newspapers, etc.) and wrap them in polyethylene film. Keep seedlings preferably in a cool place. If the roots of the seedlings are slightly dried, then before planting the gardener should prune them for 2-3 cm and put the sapling( roots and part of the stem) into the water for 2-3 days.
It may be that the seedlings were purchased after the planting deadlines for the given location and they are riskily planted in a permanent place. In this case, it is better to plant the seedlings for winter storage in a place sheltered from the wind in trenches with a depth of 50-60 cm and a width of 50 cm.
Drinking young plants for the winter
In the trench, seedlings should be placed with the tip of the tops to the south to avoid sunburn. After the trench with seedlings will be covered by 1/4 of its depth with loose moist soil, the seedlings must be watered and finally covered with soil after small frosts to a height of 20-25 cm above the root collar( to avoid freezing of the seedling).Around the prikopki with seedlings, you need to make a drainage groove and decompose the poisoned bait against mice and water rats.
In the spring fruit seedlings should be removed as soon as possible from the prikopki, not allowing propping the bark on the trunks, and planted in a permanent place.