Gladiolus

A wonderful flower, so solemn and rich, so proud! This is a cut flower. Do not grow gladioli on beds. You can plant a group of 3-4, different periods of flowering, but one color, for example, all red. All bulbous cultures love the sun. Nothing will grow in the shade, except for small-hulled and early varieties of tulips, because they even have time to decay under the trees before the foliage on these plants covers everything on the ground with a shadow. As for lilies, gladioli, onions, garlic, they need sun. If the gladiolus will be in the shade for at least half a day, then you will not see their real flowering. They will bloom very late, the ear will be very frail, and it will not have 12-15 colors, as expected, but only 5-7.For gladiolus you need a particularly sunny place.

Most bulbous no garter does not require, but the gladiolus requires. It must be tied up as soon as the ear begins to appear. Without this, nothing will come out, because the ear is heavy, the flowers are heavy, the ear spits out, breaks off, and nothing interesting will happen.

Cut the gladiolus when the very first bud is well-colored, but just started to unfold, then the plants well tolerate the transport. If two or three flowers have already blossomed on the peduncle, then, no matter how carefully you carry, your petals will necessarily bend, and the plants will lose decorativeness.

Gladiolus should be cut early in the morning, even when there is no hot sun. And it's more correct not to cut it, but to break it. You take an awl or corkscrew, slightly part the leaves, make a hole in the base of the opened leaves, and then break, holding your hand close to this place. First, you thus do not tolerate the infection. Secondly, you keep the leaves, which, as a rule, damage when cut. The leaves are needed by the onion after flowering, because the plants must create a new substitution bulb or restore the old, as it happens in the lilies, or the rhizome, as required by peonies. The root system and leaves are powerful, and you have a very fast replacement bulb and a good number of large children. If you leave a flower in the flowerbed, then as soon as the flower fades, you must break it, so that the seeds do not form. The plant spends a lot of effort on budding and blooming, and if you give it a flowering to the end, then you do not have a bulb of substitution.

Gladiolus, like the dahlia, you need to rejuvenate: select children and nurture a new planting material. Never buy a small planting material: you will not get real gladioli from this small fry. A good gladiolus is obtained only from a baby, which is the size of a thumbnail. It's a wonderful renewing material.

Digging a gladiolus bulb is necessary when the first frost has passed or just the leaves have turned yellow. It is better to do this not with a shovel, but with pitchforks, you should not rip it off, you can tear off the bottom with a young bulb along with the old bulb. You can dig a little sovochkom, take the lower part of the stem and take it out.

If you sell the planting material in order not to confuse the varieties, take the planting material along with the roots and thrust this tail along with the greens into a piece of kapron tights. Then wash in a barrel of water. Once washed, you put this stocking with bulbs in a solution of "Carbophos" in order to kill thrips, he is the most heinous vermin of the gladiolus. A solution of "Carbophos" you make the concentration twice as high as it is recommended for spraying. Hold there for 10-15 minutes, take it out and shift it into a dense raspberry solution of potassium permanganate to get rid of possible diseases. There, hold 15 minutes and, without rinsing, take out everything from the stocking, cut off the top and spread the bulbs to dry. After about 20 days at a temperature of 20-25 ° With you the bulb dries. To check if the bulb dried, you can do this: if the roots together with the old bulb are very easily separated, then the bulb is dried out sufficiently.

Then you shoot the scales, that is, necessarily undress the bulb, leaving it without a single scaly. If this is not done, then the eggs of thrips preserved under the scales, in winter, the eggs that have been released from them during the storage of thrips larva will suck the juice from the bulbs. They will turn into dry mummies, of which, naturally, nothing will grow. You throw a trifle, but leave a big baby. On the bulb you can immediately write a felt-tip pen number, under which in your entries there is a grade. Bulbs, together with a child of each grade, are covered with a pounded tablet of any sulphopreparation( for example, sulfadimezin).

Then put it all in a double black and brown kapron stocking, bandage, put the bulbs of the next grade, bandage, and you get a garland. It must be hung for the curtain on the window bolt. If there is no bolt, then you drive a nail and hang it. There's always a very cold temperature, above 12 degrees never will. Gladiolus is in excellent conditions. It does not dry out, light does not affect it, it is protected from pests and diseases by sulfopreparation and prematurely will not go to growth, because it is cold. In this way the bulbs are perfectly preserved.

In the spring, you take them out, look, if there are spots or ulcers somewhere, cut them with a knife. Again, the crumbled tablet of sulfopreparation fall asleep, again fold and store again. In late March and early April, they need to be put on light.

Gladiolus can be grown at home, transported in pots and already planted after freezing. There are some subtleties here. You take the sphagnum moss, moisturize it, spread it into a jar with low edges, for example, from a herring, from above put gladiolus bulbs, tightly, one to the other, directly onto this moss, and put it on the windowsill. The window is rather cold, but it's light. Gladiolus will slowly grow up and produce a furrow of future roots. If this is done too early, the plants will grow strongly, you will have to transplant them into sour cream( half-liter) cups into the soil, not deepening it. They will give roots. When transplanting into the ground, you turn the jar with the gladioli and remove it. It will be correct if before that you do not water 2-3 days so that the bank can easily take off. Plant in the already prepared soil.

Read the note

If you plant gladiolus with unbroken bulbs, then you plant them in early May.

Now about the baby. Baby must be nurtured necessarily. The children have a very dense shell, so much that it can not even germinate. Therefore, the chitinous cover of it must be broken, it can be done so: you put it on sandpaper, put on mitten and roll on sandpaper. Then soak in the water, when the shell burst, then you will plant. Shallow, 3-4 cm. Or you can plant in early May right into the soil, into a small trench 10 cm deep. Down a little bit of good soil, then sand, then baby, then sand, and from the top, literally 3-4 cm of any land. In large children, you can simply "rastreskat" shell, for this you take two fingers and slightly squeezed. The shell will crack. Of the children, one can grow the best bulb in one season, it is called juvenile. From this bulb you will get an amazing planting material. But first you need to grow the bulb at home by dropping it into separate cups from yoghurt at the beginning of April, then at the end of May or the beginning of June you will transplant them to the garden. In the autumn you will be surprised when you get large, large bulbs. The bulb will be 2.5 cm in diameter and 2.5 cm in height. This is the best planting material.

If you plant a large baby in early May directly into the soil, then you will not get large bulbs. When you buy the planting material gladioli, then look carefully. The best planting material is when the bulb is 2.5-3 cm in diameter, and it has almost the same height and very small bottom. But the bulb, which is about 1 cm high, and 5-6 cm in diameter, with almost the same size of a donkey, is an old planting material, never buy it. You will not get renewable material from him. Such an onion can be planted only if you have lost a variety and you have only one such old bulb left. It will have to be cut in half before planting, cut the slices with greenery and plant.

Sometimes it goes, not one stem, but two. If one strongly advances the other, then the weak one must be broken. And if they are both strong, then you can leave 2 barrels from one bulb, then you will have two replacement bulbs.

You need to feed phosphorus and potassium. Nitrogen feed as a last resort. If you have well primed the soil, then there is enough nitrogen. Nitrogen fertilizing is given only if the leaves are very weak and they are pale and feeble. And keep in mind that you can give nitrogen fertilizing only in early June, when the frosts are over. Then the infusion of mullein( 1:10) or bird droppings( 1: 20) can be used. It can be infusion of weeds or just mineral nitrogen( 3 tablespoons of urea for 10 liters of water).Superphosphates and potassium contribute to the emergence of peduncle, so when you have 3-4 real, large leaves, take 1 tbsp.spoon double superphosphate, 2 tbsp.spoons of potassium without chlorine for 10 liters of water, spending top dressing on a liter pot under the plant. If there is nothing, then take 1 glass of ash, fill with hot water and feed each plant.

The main pest of the gladiolus is tripe. He is a sucking pest and hides inside the plant, in the leaves. Only drugs that are absorbed by the leaf are used against it: biological "Fitoverm", "Iskra-bio" or chemical preparation "Fosbetsid".When the first signs of any disease of the leaves appear, use a wonderful new biological preparation "Zircon"( 4-5 drops per 1 liter of water).It is useful for zircon to spray all the plants for prophylaxis once a month, in this case 2 drops per liter of water are sufficient.