Chrysanthemums
Chrysanthemum is a beautiful autumnal flowering plant, which in all countries is valued for farewell autumn beauty of magnificent flowers.
Chrysanthemums got to Europe in 1676. They were brought to England by the Dutchman Reed. But the real chrysanthemum boom did not begin until after 1829, when the famous French grower Berne raised a few exquisite unusual flowers from the seeds and began a general fascination with chrysanthemums. In just 50 years, horticulturists in Europe have produced more than 300 varieties.
Chrysanthemum belongs to the family of Compositae and is a perennial plant of various heights with a thickened, sometimes almost wooden stalk, single or dense with thin branches. The leaves of chrysanthemum are deep-toothed, gray-green, hairy. The inflorescence is a basket with a large number of ligulate flowers( petals), located around the center, formed by tubular flowers. The color of the ligulate flowers is quite diverse, the tubular flowers are often painted yellow, rarely white or the color of the reed flowers. The ratio in the inflorescence of reed and tubular flowers determines the degree of the inflorescence of the inflorescence.
Terry inflorescences predominantly consist of ligulate flowers; in semimarve ligulate flowers occupy at least five extreme rows located around the center, in nonmahnous inflorescences the ligule flowers are arranged in a single row around the tubular disk
There are:
Bent, or dangling, - reed long flowers, bent downward with respect to the axis of the inflorescence and hanging down from its edges.
Lupobed - inflorescences large, flattened, friable, low-necked, formed by long thin tabby flowers, like needles. This effect is created due to the fact that reed flowers merged into a tube.
Inflammable form of the inflorescence( Terry group)
Inflammatory - inflorescences are small, not more than 7 cm in diameter, are dense, are formed by short, densely located reed flowers.
Below is presented: polish form of inflorescence( Terry group) -florets are flattened, reed flowers are located regularly, perpendicular to the center of the inflorescence.
Semi-spherical form of inflorescence( Terry group) - long ligulate flowers are densely, regularly and bent upwards towards the center of the inflorescence, forming a hemisphere.
Curly - inflorescences hemispherical, less often globose, formed by long ligulate flowers, located densely and irregularly. They are partially bent upward toward the center of the inflorescence, which creates the effect of some disheveled inflorescence.
Curly inflorescence( group Terry) - long reed flowers arranged densely, regularly and steeply
Spherical shape of the inflorescence( Terry group)
Non-mulched
Inflorescence of the inflorescence( group Flat)
Semi-double shape of the inflorescence( group Flat)
Semi-double form - inflorescencesflat with a small open disc of yellow tubular flowers in the center, tongue flowers of different colors are arranged in two to five rows along the edge of the central disk.
Convex chrysanthemums
Characterized by the presence in the center of the inflorescence of long tubular flowers, not differing in color from the reed. Tiger flowers are arranged in three to five rows around the center with tubular flowers.
Anemone - inflorescences are convex, possessing all the main characteristics of this class.
The anemone shape of the inflorescence( group Convex)
The bent, drooping form of the inflorescence( Terry group)
The genus of chrysanthemums is very numerous, it has about 160 different species, many of which are represented by various varieties. The variety of chrysanthemums is classified according to a number of characteristics.
According to the flowering period, chrysanthemums are subdivided into:
early, flowering in August-September;
average, flowering in October-first half of November;
late, flowering in the second half of November-December.
Depending on the size of the inflorescence and the height of the plant, chrysanthemums are divided into:
large-flowered, inflorescence with a diameter of 10-25 cm, plant height 80-120 cm;
decorative, inflorescences 10-18 cm in diameter, plant height 30-70 cm;
small-flowered, inflorescences 4-10 cm in diameter, plant height 25-120 cm.
There is also a classification of chrysanthemums in shape and type of inflorescence, which includes 3 main groups and 10 classes.
Chrysanthemums are annual and perennial, in general about 150 species of these plants are known.
Most of the listed species and varieties of chrysanthemums are very thermophilic plants, which are demanding for growing conditions that can be created for them only in greenhouses, and therefore will not be considered as a long-term open-ground culture.
In the open ground, as a perennial culture, small-flowered chrysanthemum species are grown, of which the most common in ornamental horticulture is the species of Korean chrysanthemum, the is resistant to low temperatures. Korean small-flowered chrysanthemum has a popular name - oaks, most likely for the similarity of the shape of its leaves with oak leaves. Korean chrysanthemum forms lush shrubs with a height of 25 to 110 cm. Stems erect, 25-120 cm high, with thin brittle branches. Leaves cauline, have a length of up to 7 cm and a width of up to 4 cm, little-cut. The upper side of the leaves is green, smooth, the lower one is rather densely covered with short, light hairs. Leaves and stems on the fracture have a peculiar fresh and pungent smell of autumn, sometimes a little sharp. Chrysanthemums have branched rhizomes, located at a depth of up to 20 cm, giving stolonobrazuemye shoots and numerous root shoots. Inflorescence - a basket consisting of many separate flowers. Flowers are of two types - reed and tubular. Short tubular bisexuals are usually located in the center of the inflorescence, and long ligulate flowers that are petals, same-sex feminine - on the edges. In terry chrysanthemums, most flowers are ligulate, and in simple, chamomile, almost the whole basket consists of tubular flowers, relics are located in a row only along its edge. The size of the inflorescence of the basket can vary - from 2 to 9 cm. Often in one bush, up to 500 inflorescences, gathered in a loose complex scute or panicle, almost simultaneously bloom. Coloring flowers is the most diverse: dark orange, dark red, white, crimson, red, pink, yellow, lilac. Flowers have a pleasant fresh scent. The average flowering period of Korean chrysanthemum is October. Chrysanthemums are especially dear to us, because they are the last autumn colors, pleasing us with their colors before the onset of winter. Particularly impressive are the mass plantings of some chrysanthemums, selected according to the color of flowers and the height of the bushes. From them you can make rich autumn compositions from the autumnal foliage that pass into each other: red, orange, red, yellow. Beautifully looks a chain of chrysanthemums under a deciduous tree or shrub that changes the color of foliage. Korean chrysanthemums in joint plantings with various perennials or decorative shrubs are good. They can be grown in pot culture and cut.
Grades
White - Pearl, Crystal, Snow Maiden, White sail, Modesty, Daisy. Pink - Cinderella, Kupava, Pink, Moldova, Rosetta, Pink chamomile. Raspberry-lilac - Gebe, Magician, Bouquet, Daughter of Rosetta.
Yellow and Orange - Enon, Golden Autumn, Mishal, Autumn Sun, Curb Yellow. Red - Aurora, Haiduk, Autumn, Autumn sunset, Late red, Golden tips.
Description of some varieties of
Autumn sun - non-fluff bright yellow inflorescences 7-7,5 cm in diameter with honey aroma. The height of plants is 50-60 cm, the bush is strong. Blooms from the second half of August to frost.
Autumn sunset - inflorescences non-primary red, diameter 6,7-7,5 cm. Plant height 40-45 cm. It blooms from the second half of August to frost.
Curb yellow - bright yellow inflorescences of Ro-mash-like form, non-primary. The diameter of the inflorescence is 6-7 cm. Plant height is 45-50 cm. The bush is compact with dark green leaves. Blooms from the middle of August.
Late red - inflorescences non-primary, velvet red, diameter of inflorescences 6-7 cm. Plant height 55-65 cm. The bush is compact with dark green leaves. Blooms from early September to frost.
Pink camomile - inflorescence is non-marble, brownish-pink, 7 cm in diameter. The height of plants is 55-60 cm. The bush is compact. Blooms from the middle of August.
Modesty - inflorescences are white with a pink tinge, 5-6 cm in diameter. Plant height is 60-65 cm. The bush is strong, well leafy. Blooms from the middle of August.
Golden tips - inflorescence half-marble copper-red color with a narrow golden border at the ends of reed flowers. The diameter of the inflorescence is 7- 7.5 cm. The height of the plants is 60-65 cm. The bush is strong, well leafy. Blooms from the middle of August.
Daisy - inflorescences white with a cream shade, semi-double. Diameter 6-7 cm. Plant height 55-65 cm. The bush is strong with light green leaves. Blooms from late August to frost.
Koryochka - inflorescences bronze with golden edges of reeds, their diameter is 6-7 cm. The height of plants is 55-65 cm. The bush is strong, well leafy. Blooms from the second half of August.
Chrysanthemums are beautiful cut flowers that stand in the water longer than any others, except that carnations can stand in water for as long. It's funny that sometimes long standing chrysanthemums( just like roses) can give roots and they can be planted in a pot.
All varietal chrysanthemums reproduce by cuttings, for which the mother plants are needed. Their best specimens are selected during mass flowering. After flowering, the aerial part is cut off and placed in a cool place of the greenhouse at 4-8 ° C.In January( early terms) - February( late) queen cells are placed in a well-lit place with a temperature of 10-12 ° C.
As the radical shoots grow from them, apical cuttings are cut from them 5-8 centimeters long and, not allowing wilting, are planted for rooting at a temperature of 12-15 ° directly into shelves filled with light compost soil admixed with peat crumb. Top sand is poured into a layer of 2-3 centimeters. Plant cuttings at a distance of 3 4 centimeters. The first days, especially in the sunlight, are shaded with a thin wet paper. Rooting occurs in two to four weeks, after which the cuttings are planted at a distance of 6x6 centimeters.
After the growth of the cuttings begins, they are plucked to prevent the formation of early buds and ensure branching. Large-chrysanthemums are usually grown with only one shoot, the rest is removed.
Summer chrysanthemums are planted in the ground - directly in the ridge or in pots.
In the ridges, prefilled with organic and mineral fertilizers and prepared from autumn, planted in late May - early June at a distance of 30x30 centimeters. To each plant from the side of the prevailing wind for garters of plants put a peg length of 50-60 centimeters.
When cultivated in pots, they are digged into ridges of open ground, mulched with peat or humus and also put pegs. In summer, during growth, regularly watered and fed with a solution of mineral fertilizers( 10-15 grams per liter), spend pasynkovanie and remove the lower old leaves.
By the end of summer, all the plants are transferred to the greenhouse. In autumn, flowering begins, during which the conservatory is maintained at a lower temperature.
Cultivation of small-colored chrysanthemums differs only in the character of the formation of bushes, whose shoots are plucked several times, leaving 40-50 flowers in each bush.
Let's talk about "chamomiles".Many people are interested in perennial chrysanthemums with inflorescences resembling this flower. Usually they are bright yellow or light yellow with a yellow center. And the middle is large, strongly convex, and the marginal petals are small and short.
In the evening and in cloudy weather, the flower is amusing the marginal petals, sometimes it even seems that they have fallen. But in the morning, as soon as the sun rises, like ligulate( marginal) petals all begin to straighten.
The strong-growing bush grows rapidly( literally over one summer), blooms more than 60 days, from July to September. Foliage of this daisy is delicate, short, resembles twigs of thuja.
Large bright chrysanthemum bushes can decorate any place in the garden, if only the sun would hit it, at least 3-4 hours a day. There are also late-flowering varieties( late August-early October), usually with pale-lilac or dirty-pink, not very attractive flowers - daisies with a yellow center and grayish foliage. All these chrysanthemums are unpretentious and hardy, easily reproduce by seeds and division of a bush, as well as all camomiles.
Now that we're talking about chrysanthemums, we should talk about "real" perennial beauties.
There are Japanese species of chrysanthemums, distinguished by a high sturdy stem with large leaves. Crowns such a stalk is usually one luxurious flower. To the flower was large and lush, the stems are removed from all the stepsons growing from the axils of the leaves( by the way, stepsons of chrysanthemums are not suitable for propagation cuttings!).In the bush, only 2-3 stems are left to make the plants more powerful.
Tall grades require garters. Of course, you can not tie the beautiful chrysanthemum with a rope to a whip of a stick. For the garter use bamboo sticks and green laces. You can fence the growing bush( when it reaches 40-50 cm) with a metal mesh folded into a cylinder, which is fixed in the soil. When the bush grows up and rips out, the grid will not be visible.
Japanese chrysanthemums are usually grown for cutting. But if you want the plants to blossom all autumn on a bush, and not stand in a vase, then you should do the opposite. Stems in the bush should be left more( up to 6-8 pieces), and the bushes themselves should be more magnificent. Achieve this special pinch growth point( pinzirovke), to cause the growth of lateral shoots. In the Northwest these chrysanthemums do not winter, as they come from warm countries - Japan and China. But they are supposed to be taken home for the winter( in any case, they arrive in Belarus).They easily tolerate the transplant, so flowering plants can be excavated from the soil, transplanted into pots and taken home. There they will bloom for a long time, almost until the New Year. Then they must be cut off, leaving a stump about 15 cm high. Keep in a cool place, very mildly watering. You can cut them shorter, take off all the leaves, put them in boxes and leave to spend the winter in the cellar. In March-April, chrysanthemums will come to life. There will be new leaves and shoots. You should leave 2-3 strongest. After the frost has passed, the plants can be planted in the open ground.
Chrysanthemums are perfectly cut by radical shoots, so the "extra" shoots that appear from the soil, reaching 8-10 cm, should not be thrown away, but planted and grown, like any cuttings, under a glass jar in a separate container or seedling box( under a tunnel film shelter).Then, when the plants take root( they will have a new leaf), they are grown in a greenhouse and only then planted in the ground. Usually these teenagers also sell in the autumn, assuring that the plants perfectly winter without shelter. Lies, of course. Large-flowered chrysanthemums can be protected in the open ground, like roses, only with very good, and most importantly, timely shelter, and even then not always.
Fortunately, there are also chrysanthemums Korean, more small-flowered than Japanese, but abundantly flowering. Most often this is relatively low( 60-70 cm) shrubs of several stems, each of which blooms several flowers. To cause a lush bloom, the top of each shoot is cut over the 4-6th leaf( at an altitude of about 15-20 cm).By the way, these cut off tops are well rooted. After flowering, the plants are cut to the ground level and bogged with soil or peat and even sand to a height of 30-40 cm. They will overwinter perfectly. In the spring, at the end of May, they can be unraveled. Emerging weak or "extra" shoots should be removed immediately, then the flowers will be larger. Or, by letting them grow to 5-8 cm, they can be broken and used like cuttings. Usually they bloom in the same summer. As a rule, this is the basis of the method of reproduction of chrysanthemums. Another can be multiplied by spring division of the bush, which should be very well poured with water, excavated and only then divided.
Chrysanthemums need to divide the bush every 3 years, otherwise you risk losing them. You can grow chrysanthemums from seeds, but in the offspring there is a splitting, and you can easily grow up completely different from what you were going to.
By a surprising variety of shapes and shades, the colors of equal chrysanthemums are not, except that dahlias. Chrysanthemums please us when most flowers have already blossomed, and therefore they are especially loved. But these autumn "flowers are by no means alone." Traditional partners of chrysanthemums are Rudbeckies, Echinacea, Japanese anemone, dahlias, perennial asters and autumn cleansers. There is something to admire in the autumn garden before the frosts. And for some reason none of the flowering plants in autumndoes not cause such sadness as chrysanthemums( maybe because of its unique bitter smell?)
Chrysanthemums are good in any plantings, but they are best looked by separate curtains. It's sunny flowers, they need the sun all day, so they shouldplanted in open places, but protected from wind by other( backstage) plants. This can be conifers, ornamental shrubs, autumn asters, nice buildings. Never put chrysanthemums in subtrees.
Early varieties of chrysanthemums are planted in late spring-early summer,and cold-resistant perennials and low-growing varieties( for stony slides and curbs) should be planted in autumn. Those plants need fertile, slightly acidic soil, constant but moderate moistening, so in a dry time water them. But do not fill or allow water stagnation during long rains. When planting, you can add 1 teaspoon of AVA granular fertilizer. It will last for 3 years, and no other mineral top dressing will be required. Or you can make 1 tbsp.a spoonful of azofoski, but this is enough only for the first year. In the future, in the beginning of summer, it is necessary to feed the plants with full mineral fertilizer or an organomineral mixture. The most suitable fertilizers are "Aquarine", "Omu flower", "Gumi Omi for flowers".Before budding, every two weeks before the flowering begins, give any liquid organic top dressing( for example, manure or weed infusion or "Gumi", or even better "Phytosporin"), which should be discontinued from the moment of flowering. In the autumn, after the flowering, add a large amount of organic material( half a bucket under a bush of Korean chrysanthemums or a half-liter jar to a stunted plant) around the perimeter of the bush and seal into the soil along the perimeter of the crown of 3 tbsp.spoons of bone meal or 2 tbsp.spoons of double granulated superphosphate.
Chrysanthemum has many enemies of .Of pests, a lot of damage can be caused by aphids, gennitsa, leaf rollers, mining flies, slugs, snails and caterpillars. To cope with most of them helps to "Healthy Garden", if they spray the plants every 2-3 weeks from the moment when the aerial part grows to the cut. Against slugs and snails, one can pollinate the soil under dry-mustard plantings, but lime or ash can not be used.
Of the diseases most often in the North-West there is powdery mildew, as well as rust and spotting of the leaves. Marble spotting( chlorosis) of leaves often causes a lack of magnesium. In this case, you can make magnesia( from the pharmacy), or a small amount of dolomite flour or sprinkle plants "Uniflor-Butonour."Is on sale and a phosphoric-magnesium mixture. Chrysanthemums love magnesium and phosphorus. With powdery mildew and rust, "Fitosporin" copes well. But it is better to apply it prophylactically, 2-3 times for. season. But if the disease manifested itself in all its glory, then it is more effective to use "Zircon".Withering of plants causes a viral disease, which can not be handled, therefore( in order to avoid infecting other chrysanthemums), this bush should be dug and burned immediately.
Chrysanthemums are known to mankind for more than 2 thousand years. In China and, especially, in Japan it is cult flowers. Many legends and beliefs are associated with them. There is a legend that for more than two hundred years before Christ, a Chinese emperor learned about an unusual plant, the juice of which returns youth, but a man with a pure heart must break it. Then he ordered 300 young girls and young men to search for this plant on neighboring islands. Whether they found a magic flower or not, it remained unknown, because the sent junks with young people did not return back. So the new state was founded - Japan, the symbol of which was the chrysanthemum - the flower of the mikado.
The image of the chrysanthemum is decorated with the coat of arms, it is the emblem of the Japanese Empire and the symbol of the imperial power. There is even the Order of Chrysanthemum. Matter with the image of chrysanthemums was the right to wear only the imperial family. The rest of the mortals are categorically forbidden by law. Violators of the law faced the death penalty.
Probably, in no country is there such a flower, literally admired by all the people, like a chrysanthemum in Japan. It is dedicated to one of the most favorite autumn holidays, and its flower decoration from chrysanthemums alone can not imagine. Entire paintings are created from real flowers, and not cut, but continue to grow and bloom.
If you can afford a trip to Japan, then go to the Chrysanthemum Festival, which is much richer and more interesting, although less known to Europeans, than the much-touted spring Blossoming cherry blossom( simply cherry).From chrysanthemums, the Japanese and Chinese know how to prepare all kinds of delicious dishes, as well as medicinal drugs, which are attributed not only healing, but also magical properties.
Cultivation and care. Chrysanthemums are very photophilous and demanding to the soil, prefer open, sunny areas, protected from strong winds, with good drainage. They grow better on loamy, easily permeable, organic soils with a pH of 6-6.5.Sandy or clay soil is improved with manure, peat, compost soil. The minimum feeding area for young plants is 25 x 25 cm. During the summer period, at least 3 additional fertilizers are carried out alternately with organic and mineral fertilizers. On average, 10-15 g of nitrogen, 15-20 g of phosphorus fertilizers and 10-16 g of potassium fertilizers( better in the form of solutions) per 1 m2.After planting to stimulate vegetative growth, chrysanthemum should be regularly fed with nitrogen fertilizers, both mineral and organic. Top dressing is done every 10-14 days. In the budding stage( August-September), potassium and phosphorus fertilizers, affecting the brightness of the inflorescence and the stamina of the peduncle, should be applied simultaneously with the nitrogen fertilizers. Fertilizers are applied to moist soil after rain or watering. Mineral fertilizers, getting on the leaves of chrysanthemums, cause their severe burn. Therefore, you need to be careful. Chrysanthemums do not suffer a lack of atmospheric and soil moisture. With occasional watering, their stems are lignified, and the quality and preservation of flowers deteriorate;make sure that the water does not fall on the leaves during watering. At the end of the vegetation or before cooling, the bushes are cut and sprinkled with peat, sawdust or earth with a layer of about 20 cm, lapnik can be used. Small-flowered chrysanthemums well tolerate wintering in the ground. However, we must not allow moisture to accumulate in the place of wintering chrysanthemums. If the chrysanthemum bushes are located in a dry place, they will not freeze.
Chrysanthemum plants can grow in one place for no more than 5 years.in plants growing in one place for several years, decorativeness decreases: the inflorescence is reduced, the shoots shoot out strongly, and the color becomes dull. In order to avoid this, it is necessary to subdivide the bushes in a year or two and plant the segments in the in advance of the digging and fertilizing the soil.
Chrysanthemum stems fragile and are easily broken, so all chrysanthemums of tall varieties must be tied to stakes or trellis. As the plants grow, the garter is repeated. As a dressing material, use a thick twine or a soft wire. The main method of reproduction is vegetative: bush division and cuttings propagation. The division of the can be carried out at any time, even during the flowering period. However, it is recommended to breed varieties in early summer, when intensive growth of young shoots begins. A well-grown root shoot is excavated along with the remains of the old bush and the young shoots are separated from the roots. Each such de-lenka gives rise to a new plant. Delenki planted in pre-prepared composted pits at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other and abundantly watered. The most effective method of propagation is cuttings, because chrysanthemums are easily rooted plants, and varieties with thick fleshy stalks and shoots are rooted worse than varieties with thin and woody shoots. In the autumn, the selected plants are cut, dug, transplanted into boxes or pots, watered, allowed to settle down, and then placed in a cool light room, where they are kept until February at a temperature of 4-6 ° C with moderate watering. In February, they bring in a warmer room, watered abundantly, after 2 weeks they fertilize with nitrogen fertilizers( 20 grams per bucket of water).The best period of cuttings is March-April. The duration of rooting is 12-20 days. Rooted cuttings are planted in boxes or pots with nutritive ground and after reaching a height of 15 cm they spend their first prishchipku( removal of the growth kidney), the second prishchipa is carried out when reaching the lateral shoots of length 12-15 cm. During the growing of the planting material, it is recommended to carry out 1-2 fertilizingalternately organic( mullein 1: 10) and mineral fertilizers. For 10-14 days before planting on a permanent place the plants must undergo a period of hardening. Planted rooted cuttings begin in late May - early June, when the danger of late late spring frosts passes. Cuttings of chrysanthemums can be done not only in early spring, but also in summer. As cuttings use root shoots or young side shoots, growing on old stems. Cuttings 5-7 cm long are planted in pots or boxes with sand or nutritive soil, moisturize well and cover with a glass jar.
Chrysanthemums are a rather thermophilic ornamental culture, therefore, for winter after chipping of chrysanthemum stems, it is necessary to cover with lapnik or dry leaves. It is not recommended to use for covering straw and dry grass, it can provoke fungal diseases
Plants grown both from early and late cuttings bloom almost simultaneously. The timing of the cuttings significantly affects only the height of the bush. Very early plants produce very early cuttings. With sufficient irrigation and nutrition, plants reach their normal height. Chrysanthemums suffer from early autumn frosts. Sometimes, after 1-2 frosty nights, warm weather is established. If, for the time of freezing, the chrysanthemum bushes are covered with burlap, plastic wrap or paper, the flowers will be saved and will be able to rejoice with their beauty for a long time.
After cutting flowers cut old stems as low as possible to the surface of the soil, clean them from dry and diseased leaves. With the onset of the first frosts( -2-4 ° C) these bushes are covered with lapnik and dry leaves. Early in the spring, before the shoots begin to grow, the last leaves are removed from the foliage on last year's plants.
Chrysanthemums are perfect for cutting: stems with flowers are cut, and more often they break out when the flowers in the inflorescence are fully opened.