Hyacinths

Description and varieties. It is believed that in Greek, hyacinth means "rain flower".This poetic title is due to the fact that in his homeland, in Asia Minor, it is dissolved with the first warm spring rains. Florists of the East, and later Europe hyacinth has always been valued for the variety of colors, splendor and elegance of the inflorescences, consisting of star-like flowers with steeply bent perianth. In addition, hyacinth has always been famous for its delicate and surprisingly persistent aroma. From its homeland hyacinth got to Turkey, where it gained great popularity, and from there it was brought to Europe first to Austria, then to Holland. It was the Dutch, passionate flower lovers, who glorified the tender hyacinth and became the trendsetters of the fashion for breeding this flower. Most Dutch hybrids of hyacinth belong to Dutch growers. Hyacinth is a perennial bulbous plant suitable for growing in the garden and forcing in room conditions. The genus of hyacinths includes about 30 wild species widely distributed in the Mediterranean basin, in Asia Minor and Central Asia. In Russia, hyacinth was brought from Holland in 1730 and received deserved recognition mainly as a flower for Christmas, New Year and Easter.

The greatest value for floriculture and gardening is represented by hyacinth orientalis( Hyacintus orientalis).

The cultivars are cultivated varieties that originated from the hyacinth of the eastern lily family, which is the ancestor of all existing garden forms and varieties of hyacinth. This perennial bulbous plant with linear, juicy, surface leaves and one inflorescence - a brush of cylindrical shape. Flowers are water-lily with bent petals, are placed on short pedicels, very fragrant, painted in white, cream, yellow, pink, lilac, blue and blue. A characteristic feature of the flowers of the hyacinth is that, when they part, they bend their long petals almost to the base of the flower's tube, from which the inflorescence acquires a curly appearance.

Bulb of hyacinth very large, 5-6 cm in diameter, round-oval, pleated. Below 2 to 3 covert scales are attached to the base of the bottom and tightly adjacent to each other stocking scales. They last up to 4 years, consuming nutrients during vegetation, and turn into covering film scales. Gradually, they are pushed back to the periphery along with the remainder of the peduncle and dry up and dry up by the 3rd and 4th year.

The excavated large, hyacinth-capable bulb consists of 15-20 dense scales located on the bottom, which is essentially a shortened stalk. In the center or on top of the cone of the Don, next to the dead peduncle, a flower bud is formed. In the period of rest( July-September), this kidney increases and in it are laid the rudiments of leaves and all elements of the inflorescence. Its height for planting in autumn reaches 3-3.5 cm. A new bud of renewal is laid at its base.

On the periphery of the bottom, between the storing scales, the kidneys of the daughter bulbs are laid. Subsequently, the mother bulb buds off daughter bulbs, but in some varieties, when a daughter bulb is formed, the adult bulb is killed. The most common group of hyacinths is the group of Dutch hybrids. They are characterized by large dense inflorescences from a large number of flowers, differing in color. The height of the inflorescence corresponds to the length of the peduncle. The range of hyacinth stains ranges from white to purple. At the present time the gamma color of hyacinths is unusually rich. These are all kinds of shades of white, yellow, pink, red, crimson, blue, purple, violet. Breeders are constantly looking for new shades of different colors, and modern hyacinths are already represented by orange and completely black gimmicks. In coloring hyacinths are divided into 6 groups: white, pink, red, blue and blue, purple and lilac, yellow and orange. Within each coloring there are simple and double varieties.

White hyacinths

Early flowering - Arentina Arendsen and Grand Blanche; mid-early flowering - Snow Crystal ( terry) and Carnegie; of late flowering - Madame Sophie ( terry).

Haltonia whitish( Capsian hyacinth)

Family lily.

Bulb perennial. Leaves up to 50 cm and longer, linear, grooved, bluish-green;peduncles up to 65 cm tall;inflorescence - a multi-flower, but a rare brush;flowers are campanulate, hanging, white, fragrant;blooms from June( south) or from August to September( middle belt).

Requirements for humidity: during periods of drought, it needs irrigation, but water stagnation can not stand, especially in winter.

Requirements for heat and light: a non-resistant heat-loving plant, can grow in light and in partial shade.

Requirements for soil: prefers well drained fertile or fertilized soils.

Propagation: by seeds and daughter bulbs.

Features: bulbs in cold areas are excavated for the winter and stored in sand, in other cases, haltonia hibernates under cover.

Usage: stony gardens, mixborders, curbs, cottages.

Blue and Blue Hyacinths

Early Flowering - Marie, Grand Lila tD Delft Blue; mid-early flowering - Blue Medik and Menelik; of late flowering - Codro ( terry), Pearl Diamond and SkyJacket.

Violet and purple hyacinths

Early flowering - Amethyst, Anna-Liza, Vai-years Pearl; mid-early flowering - Ostara and Laura; of late flowering - Lepperans.

Pink hyacinths

Early flowering - Anna-Marie, Pink Pearl, Moreno, Edison ( terry);mid-early flowering - Lady Derby and Jacques; of late flowering - Gertrude.

Red hyacinths

Early flowering - Jean Bos Iija Victoire; mid-early flowering - Amsterdam; of late flowering - Hollyhock ( terry).

Yellow and orange hyacinths

Mid-early flowering - OrangeBoen and Yellowow Hammer; of late flowering - Sunflower ( terry) and Jeepsie Queen.

The group of miniature undersized hyacinths( cintellus) forms dwarf forms of various known varieties - Jean Bos, Lady Derby, Delft Blue. The height of this group of hyacinths usually does not exceed 15 cm.

According to the bloom, hyacinths can be early, medium and late. The difference in flowering time is no more than 10 days. Hyacinths are very responsive to heat. The beginning of their flowering in the middle zone of Russia falls at the end of April - beginning of May, almost coinciding in terms with the flowering of early varieties of tulips. The first to bloom are blue varieties, then pink, white, red, lilac, and later all - yellow and orange. During the flowering period, hyacinths grow actively, increasing in size. Flowering usually lasts 7-12 days, but in some varieties it stretches to 12-15, and at a temperature of 10-15 ° С and up to 25 days.

Breeding, growing and care. Hyacinths multiply by daughter bulbs - babies, but very little is formed naturally by them. Therefore, to increase the output of children, there are several methods for a long time already, to which the cuts the bottom. For this operation, healthy, large, larger than 5 cm in diameter, heavy bulbs weighing 80-100 g., Which are excavated at the time of the beginning of yellowing of the leaves. They are washed from the ground, treated with a drug-fungicide, for example, foundation, for 30 minutes and allowed to dry in a ventilated room at room temperature for a week. After drying, the bulbs separate the roots and excess dry scales and begin to cut the bottom. It is made from the end and edges of a tea or dessert spoon made of stainless steel. After each bulb, the spoon is disinfected. The task is to cut out all the tissues of the bottom and not to touch the scales. The central bud usually falls immediately after the cutting. The cut is blended with a mixture of activated crushed coal with sulfur 1: 3 or treated with a fungicide.

After 3 weeks the slices will turn anticoagulant and a callus will appear on them, and then - a mass of small onion bulbs with a diameter of 5-10 mm. On one bulb, up to 40 children can form. By the end of this period the bulbs form root rudiments and give small shoots. Rejuvenation of the bulbs is achieved with the help of the cutting of the donkey. They improve flowering and improve resistance to adverse weather conditions and diseases. Zenith of its development bulbs reach to 5-6 years. At this time they weigh 60-80 g. They have a large round bottom and form powerful flower stalks with large flowers. Another 4-6 years, these bulbs with high agrotechnics retain their quality, and then begin to age.

Cutting of the bottom in hyacinth bulbs

1. A tea or dessert spoon made of stainless steel with sharpened edges is cut out by the bottom, as if choosing the tissues of the bottom of the bulb.

In doing so, you must be careful not to damage the scales of the bulb.

2. The procedure of cutting the bottom has a stimulating effect on the bulb, it forms a lot of small onion puppies,

, depending on the type and size of the bulb, their number can reach 40. In addition, by reaming the bottom, rejuvenation of the bulb

is achieved. Another method of hyacinth bulb propagationis the cruciform incision of the bottom of the bulb. Bulbs for this procedure are prepared in the same way as for the operation of cutting the bottom. A sharp knife makes 3 transverse incisions, reaching the middle of the bulb, as if dividing the bulb into 6 sectors. The depth of the incisions should not be more than 5-7 mm. On a large bulb, usually 4 incisions are made at right angles to each other( 2 intersecting cross-shaped ones), and on smaller ones it is enough to make 2 notches. In this case, the number of bulbs that are formed decreases, but they are larger. The incised bulbs are laid on the net or in the boxes with the donkey upwards, put on a day in a dry warm place( 25 ° C): under these conditions, the incisions are better opened. When the notches are opened, they are treated with a fungicide, in addition, the bulbs are sprayed once a week with a strong solution of potassium permanganate.

As a result, bulbs are formed in an amount of 8-15 pieces, which will take 2-3 years to grow.

Each mother bulb forms 6-10 children. In autumn, nests with children are planted in the ground to a depth of 10-12 cm, between the nests are left 10 cm and covered. In the following season, all care activities are carried out. After yellowing the leaves of the nest are excavated without separating the babies and dried at a temperature of 20-23 ° C for 3 weeks. Then separate the baby, clean it and store it.

There is an opinion that the best results are obtained by a combination of these two methods of hyacinth bulb reproduction. Cross-cut, it makes sense to multiply young, high-quality bulbs, obtained by cutting the bottom.

Hyacinths have the same short period of development as tulips and daffodils, but they are even more demanding for soil, heat and moisture. The site for them should be well drained. The depth of groundwater is 50-60 cm, at a higher level, roots die out, and lower abundant watering is required. Soils should be deep( 35-40 cm), light, neutral, rich in organic matter and calcium, rapidly warming, with a permeable subsoil layer. Cold, heavy soils are completely unsuitable for growing hyacinths. It is undesirable to grow hyacinths and on acidic soils. Acidic soils must be limed using chalk or limestone. The place for planting hyacinths should be chosen solar, warm, not subject to constant wind.

In spring they begin to prepare the land for an autumn landing. Conduct deep plowing or digging with a preliminary compost or compost of 15-20 g / m2 and lime if the pH is below 6.5.Mineral fertilizers are applied with a smaller plowing a month before planting - a full dose of phosphorus and half of potassium. A month after planting, when the bulbs take root, give a half dose of nitrogen. The second half of nitrogen and potassium is introduced in the spring, at the time of the appearance of cones of hyacinths. A total of 160-180 g / m2 of mineral fertilizers are applied for hyacinth vegetation, the ratio of N: P: K = 6: 18: 28. You can prepare the site in summer, but not later than 2 months before planting the bulbs in pound, so that the soilhad time to settle. Otherwise, the natural sediment of the soil can cause the roots to break, which will begin to develop in the autumn. Planting hyacinth bulbs spend in the autumn, when the formation of the inflorescence inside the laid flower bud ends. This happens in late September - early October at a soil temperature of 6 to 10 ° C.Before the onset of frost, hyacinths should be well rooted( the length of the roots is 14-15 cm), which serves as a guarantee of their safe wintering and successful flowering in the spring. For planting, you should not choose the largest bulbs that are intended for forcing, and medium-sized bulbs, the so-called "flowerbed", giving more resistant to bad weather, peduncles. The bulbs are carefully inspected before planting, the patients are culled and etched for 30 minutes in a 0.2% suspension of foundationol or any fungicide. Bulbs of hyacinth depending on the size are planted with an interval of 15-20 cm. The depth of planting is 12-15 cm from the bottom of the bulb. The planting time in the middle zone is the end of September - the first decade of October. If the hyacinths are too early planted, they can start growing and die in winter, and if they are very late they will not have time to take root before the soil freezes to the depth of planting. When planting the bulbs, it is recommended to add mature compost and peat to the wells, if it was not applied during general tillage. Plantings mulch peat with a layer of 5 cm, and with the onset of stable minus temperatures, cover with dry leaves, cut straw or other warming materials with a layer of 20 cm. In the spring, once the soil begins to thaw, shelter should be removed, since hyacinth sprouts appear very early. In spring, after removal of the shelter and part of the mulching layer, care immediately begins: fertilizing, watering, loosening and culling sick plants.

Among the measures for hyacinth care a special role is given to feeding. At the beginning of the vetage, immediately after the appearance of the shoots, the first top dressing is carried out using ammonium nitrate - 20-30 g / m2.After appearance of buds, add 20 grams of ammonium nitrate, 40 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium chloride, and after flowering, 40 grams of superphosphate and potassium chloride or potassium-magnesium per m2.Hyacinths are demanding for irrigation. In dry autumn it is necessary to water so that the bulbs are well rooted. In a dry spring without irrigation, they quickly bloom, and the bulbs not only do not increase in size, but may even decrease. The earth under hyacinths should be constantly wet, beginning from planting and ending with drying up of leaves in the summer of next year. When watering, the soil needs to be soaked to the depth of the roots. When blossoming, the flowers are cut off by the movement of the hand from below upwards along the peduncle. The flower buds are left on the plant. Hyacinths are cut in the morning hours before watering, when the flowers completely bloomed in the brush. The flowers stand in the water for 5 days.

Excavation and storage of bulbs. The annual excavation of bulbs is an obligatory measure and a condition for the successful cultivation of hyacinths.

Bulbs are scooped out by yellowing and lodging the leaves by hand row after row. The leaves are cut off immediately when digging. The bulbs are cleaned from the ground and laid in a row in boxes with a mesh bottom for preliminary drying for 1-2 days under a canopy. After this, the bulbs are cleaned of excess scales, roots, outgrowths on the bottom, and a well-formed baby is separated. The bulbs are stored at a temperature of about 20-25 ° C.

You can store hyacinth bulbs in paper bags packed in boxes. To maintain moderate humidity, they should be slightly sprayed with water or covered with a damp cloth.

Digging allows you to inspect the bulbs, separate the children to grow, treat bulbs for the prevention of disease and

protection against pests, and destroy the sick specimens.

Diseases and pests. Mucous bacteriosis( wet or white bacterial decay of bulbs), fusariosis, green mold( penicillosis), gray rot( botrytis), root onion mite, onion and tuberculate murmur, stem nematode.

Distillation( Hyacinthus orientalis L. as an example)

The bulb of the hyacinth is large( 5-7 cm in diameter), loose, consists of juicy, open scales, covered on the outside with dry scales, the color of which coincides with the color of the flowers. The hyacinth( from large bulbs) produces 5-8 strap-like, grooved, green leaves. They are collected in a rosette.

At the beginning of flowering the leaves are shorter than the peduncle, but by the end of the vegetation they reach 30 cm in length. The peduncle is leafless, juicy, 15-25 cm high, depending on the variety. The flowers are tubular-funnel-shaped, with back-bent perianth segments 3-4 cm in size. They are collected in a tight cylindrical brush 10-15 cm long, containing 40-45 very fragrant flowers. The color varies from white to crimson-red and dark-blue.

After flowering, the leaf mass grows and spare nutrients accumulate in the bulb, while the inner scales thicken and the outer scales become filmy, integumentary. The bulb of the hyacinth is a multiyear one, it does not completely die out, a gradual replacement of scales takes place. The daughter bulbs are formed inside the maternal, in the axils of the outer scales, and are long connected by a common shell, only in time they separate from the maternal.

After 20-30 days after flowering leaves and peduncles wither, after which the bulbs are excavated.

The main condition for successful distillation of hyacinths, as well as other bulbous ones, is the use of high quality planting material for this purpose. Bulbs for distillation should be at least 5 cm in diameter, weighing about 80-90 g. They should be dense, heavy, regular rounded shape and without signs of disease.

Hyacinth forms flower buds after the end of vegetation, in early July, when the bulbs are already excavated and are in the vault. By the beginning of September, the kidneys can fully form, and if the bulbs are rooted at a lower temperature, the forced rest of the flowers will be interrupted.

For the correct and rapid formation of the inflorescence inside the bulb, it is necessary to keep the temperature 25.5 ° C during June, July, August and September, that is, before planting, during storage after excavation. However, for the early forcing( by the New Year), another storage regime is recommended, namely: in June, immediately after excavation, two weeks( 14 days) of the hyacinth bulb are stored at a temperature of 30 ° C, after which it is reduced to 25.5 ° C and10 so store the bulbs for three weeks( 21 days),

Place the hyacinth in the pot

then the temperature is again lowered to 23 ° C and in such conditions the bulbs are stored all August. In September, the storage temperature should be reduced to 17 ° C.

For medium-term forcing( February 1 - March 25) this mode is not needed, only in September, two weeks before disembarkation, the temperature in the storage is reduced to 17 ° С.

For late forcing( April), there is no need to change the storage mode. All the time before forcing out, the temperature remains the same - 25.5 ° C.At an early and medium forcing, the bulbs are planted at the end of September, and for late-in the end of October.

They are planted in pots, usually 10-12 cm in diameter. First, the pot is filled with half the soil, while a potato and a layer of sand( 1-2 cm) are placed on the bottom of the pot. The bulb is placed in a pot so that its neck protrudes above the surface of the soil, covered with earth and slightly compacts it around the bulb. Between the edge of the pot and the surface of the ground should be enough space, since the expelled hyacinth should be watered abundantly. The earth is used for sod with the addition of humus and sand.

For the cultivation of hyacinths, there is a suitable peat with the addition of lime( up to pH 6.2-6.5).In too acidic soils, the bulbs do not take root, which is why the quality of plants deteriorates noticeably. Pots are installed in the basement or under the greenhouse shelf at a temperature of 6-8 ° C.So that the pots do not dry out, they are covered with sand on top with a layer of 15-20 cm.

After 2-2.5 months, hyacinths root well, and the sprout reaches 6-8 cm. From this moment, forcing begins( suspension).They are transferred to a bright and warm room.first for a week, at 17 ° C, and then at 22-25 ° C.Flowering comes in a month. In order for the flower to be pulled, in the first days after entering the warm room the plant is kept in the dark, covering with a cap of dark paper.

After the flowering and fading of the leaves, the bulbs are removed, dried and stored until autumn( before planting in the ground).

The following hyacinth varieties are most suitable for forcing: Lady Derby, Linnens, Delft Blue, Pink Pearl, Anna Maria, Bismarck, Coliseum, etc.

At home, you can get blossoming hyacinths in winter, not in the ground, but in water, in a vessel with an extended funnel top. It is filled with water, throw a few coals to the bottom so that the water does not spoil, and put the bulb in the funnel. Between her bottom and the water level there must be a very small space so that the bottom does not touch the water. The vessel is covered with a cap of dense dark paper and placed in a room( refrigerator) with a temperature of 3-8 ° C for 2 months. During this time the bulb forms roots and a small sprout. Then the jar with the plant is put on the window, the light and at room temperature( 15-20 ° C) the hyacinth blooms. As necessary, water is poured. To get blossoming

hyacinths by January, you should start distillation from the first days of October, and by March 8 - from December. To sell hyacinths, when the first flower is opened in the inflorescence.