Care of roses

Caring for roses during the growing season consists of regular loosening of the soil around the bushes, weeding weed and mulching the soil surface with organic materials of

soil around the plant to the depth of the roots, and often( every 7-10 days);in dry hot weather - every 3-4 days. Weak irrigation, in which only the upper layer of soil is soaked, are not only useless, but also harmful, since they compact the soil, which contributes to the rapid evaporation of moisture. After watering and dressing, the soil is loosely loosened and mulched with litter, well-repaired manure, humus, peat or other loosening and heat-insulating materials.

Since mid-July, watering is reduced to a minimum, so that before frost shoots mature and are prepared for winter.

A lot of nutrients are consumed abundantly and continuously flowering on the shoots of the current year, and therefore are very sensitive to their lack. Optimal content of basic elements for a rose must be maintained in the following proportions, mg per 100 g of soil:

of nitrogen - 10-20, phosphorus - 60-80,

of potassium - 80-100, calcium - 720.

Roses always, not onlyin the first year after planting, are responsive to various forms of fertilizer. They are very demanding on the content in the soil of a sufficient number and variety of nutrients. To obtain abundantly flowering roses in the garden, they must be provided with all the elements of nutrition.

Nitrogen promotes the growth of plants, and they need it after pruning( early May), during the formation of repair shoots and in preparation for re-flowering. The deadline for the introduction of nitrogen - the beginning - the middle of August.

Phosphorus is essential for the aging of shoots. It also influences the intensity and quality of flowering. It is introduced from June to September inclusive.

Potassium is required during budding and flowering, and also when preparing roses for the winter. Potassium is easily washed out of the soil, it is introduced from June to October.

Calcium is required to neutralize acidic soils. Creation of alkaline environment favorably affects the activity of bacteria, decomposing organomineralic fertilizers.

Microelements ( magnesium, iron, boron, manganese) are needed during the entire growing season. The lack of iron in the soil causes chlorosis, boron and manganese - reduces the immunity of plants.

In the first summer after planting, special attention is paid to forming bushes. All small, growing inside, thickening shoots, as well as autumn axial shoots, growing from the place of grafting or root neck( at root-own), cut out on a ring, strongly growing - pinch. In early July, the forming scraps finish, so as not to cause new shoots at the end of summer to grow, which, before they are ripe, freeze and are often the cause of the defeat of roses by diseases. In grafted roses systematically cut to the base of a wild shoot, which in the first summer is particularly large, with age it becomes less. In order not to weaken the plants, all emerging buds are removed. Shelter of roses for the winter. It is very important to save roses in winter, especially in the first year after planting, when the plants have not yet grown stronger, and their

In areas with a relatively warm climate, climbing roses can not be removed from the support, but covered with lagnikom directly on the

support. Transplant of the rose bush

Oftenin the garden there is a need for plant transplantation, which can be caused by a number of reasons: the plant develops poorly in its permanent place, the place needs to be released in connection with the construction, the site is re-planned and other reasons. The transplantation is always traumatic for the plant, so it is necessary to make every effort to make it the most sparing.

1. Use a shovel to map the circle of burrowing the bush so as not to damage the main lateral roots.

2. Hive the ditch from all sides so that the

with roots can be freely extracted from the pit.

3. Use a shovel to pick up the root lump and turn it in the pit, putting the bush on its side.

4. Remove the bush from the pit, place it on the spread piece of cloth or film

and wrap the root lump so that the ground does not crumble when transported or transported.

5. Transfer the bush to a pre-prepared landing pit, release the root lump from the tissue and place it in the pit no deeper than it grew before the transplant.

6. After planting, cut the shrub to restore balance between the root system and the aerial part of the plant, and abundantly water the

. Climbing climbing roses can be insulated with a dense fabric, such as burlap or reed mats, without removing the lashes from the

support, the fabrics did not acquire the required strength. In the middle belt and to the north of it all garden roses, except for park ones, need winter shelter and ensure for them in winter relatively flat temperatures from 0 to -4 ° C and at the same time good aeration. In the middle zone, the death of roses during the wintering period occurs not only from low temperatures, but also from excessive moistening of the soil during the period of spring melting and temperature fluctuations, which often leads to extinction of plants.

In high areas, where the flooding of plantings by spring waters is excluded, is used for the aspiration of roses with sand, earth or peat, followed by lapnik and oak leaf. After the first frost, before the hilling, all the unburned shoots and leaves are removed from the plants, all remaining shoots are cut at a height of 40-50 cm, the bottom of the ! Changing the rose roses

If it is not possible to keep the kandid roses during the winter in a cool light room, they can be prepared for wintering in the garden. Obligatory is the instillation of a tub with a rose, otherwise the soil in it will freeze through and the plant will perish.

1. Dig a hole corresponding to the size of the tub in which the rose grows.

2. Put the tub into the pit level with the soil surface, carefully trim the rose shoots with lagets or warm it in some other way.

part of the shoots is released from the leaves. is sprayed with 1-2% Bordeaux fluid. To protect the mice,bushes okuchivaket dry sand, land that does not contain unpeeled organic remains, sawdust of coniferous trees, well-weathered peat to a height of 15-25 cm is covered first lapnikom, and then oak leaf. For particularly delicate and sensitive groups and varieties of roses, recommend hilling before the night frosts below -3 ° C( in the mid-zone in the second half of September - early October).

Rosa tea hybrid, floribunda, grandi flora hills in the same way at a height of 30-35 cm and with the onset of cold weather( from the beginning to the middle of November),

Pereimovka young roses

Cascade and young stems roses should be bent toground, secure with stakes, so that they do not straighten, and cover the shoots with lapnik, dry foliage, sprinkle with sand and cover with

waterproofing film

, freezing the soil to a depth of 5-6 cm, begin to cover the roses. Trim the tips of shoots to a height of 30-35 cm so that the remaining shoots are completely covered with a warm and waterproof material( film, ruberoid or roofing felt).After pruning around the bushes, lapnick is laid out, which is prevented from bending into the ground. The old stamping roses, whose stem has already lost its flexibility, can not be bent to the ground.

1. Shoots of stamorous roses after trimming are insulated with dry foliage or lapnika, which can be fixed on a tree with the help of a rope.

2. Top should be tightened tight bag, tie it with a rope and fasten the neck of the bag on the

. Preparation of bush roses for wintering

1. Many varieties of roses quite safely endure wintering if they make them a winter shelter for winter. First of all, roses need to be cut off, shoots cut to a height of 40 cm.

2. The trimmed roses are treated with an antifungal agent on the lower part of the shoots, they grow up to a height of 25-30 cm and are covered with boughs

Pereimovka Roses on arches and pergolas

1. The shoots of clinging roses on the arch can be wrapped with several layers of sackcloth or other dense fabric, as well as reed mats.

2. Instead of burlap can use lapnik or combine both insulating material

keeps shrubs from mice and is to a certain extent a warming material. At the top of the billet is poured a warming material with a layer of 20-40 cm so that a mound formed in the center and water drained from the shelter. After that, hides the bushes with a polyethylene film, the edges of which are sprinkled with earth or pinned with staples. Under such cover, roses are well wintered.

The most effective way of hiding is air-dry. Over the roses a metal frame 50-60 cm high is installed. Heat insulation material is placed on it - hydrothermal insulation paper, kraft paper, sheets of cardboard, and on top of them they cover with a polythene puff. The most important thing is that under the shelter it is dry, and a layer of air under the frame protects the plants from hypothermia.

Roses should be bent to a height of 25-30 cm with sand, compost, garden soil that does not contain undecomposed organic residues, weathered peat or sawdust of coniferous tree species.

Climbing and half-lobed roses are bent to the ground, from below and top covered with spruce birch, and then with paperand a film. By spring, the shelter of warming materials( earth, peat, sand and sawdust) is heavily compacted, and beginners wake up plants need more air. Therefore, it is very important to correctly determine the term of disclosure of roses. Usually it is determined by thawing the soil. Noticing the thawing of the soil, gradually free the roses from shelter. First remove the film, ruberoid, then a sheet, cut a bit of lapnika, opening the air access to the shelter.

With the onset of warm weather without prolonged nocturnal frosts, all shelters are removed( in the middle strip these times fall to the middle and end of April).Too early opening can lead to the extinction of the kidneys, belatedly - to loss from getting wet or getting out of the lower buds, which give the strongest and longest shoots forming large flowers. Trimming. Of particular importance for the development of roses is their correct pruning. This is an extremely important agricultural technique for growing roses, only with its help can the growth of shoots and subsequent abundant flowering be ensured. Pruning is aimed at the formation of a highly developed bush with an open center and evenly sprouted shoots and regulating flowering. Pruning involves both shortening and cutting( thinning of shoots).Pruning is carried out in spring, summer and autumn. Spring pruning is basic. First of all, the formation of a bush depends on it. Spring pruning of roses begins immediately after the final unfolding of plants after wintering when the growth buds swell in the middle part of the most powerful shoots. Pruning stimulates the growth of young shoots. Roses are inherent in the ability to annually develop young shoots of restoration, growing from the lower part of the bush or root neck, designed to replace the old shoots. When spring pruning, one must bear in mind that the kidneys on the last year's shoots have a different development. On the top of the kidneys are most developed and sometimes sprout even under cover, in the middle - well-formed sleeping buds, and on the lower part of the shoots - underdeveloped, which sprout if the shoot over them is cut. There are three types of spring molding pruning:

strong or short - on 1-2 well-developed kidneys. This pruning is performed by

Basic pruning of roses

The main pruning of roses is made in spring after removal of the winter warming shelter, it is started when the growth buds are swelling in the middle part of the most powerful shoots of the plant. Primary pruning is considered because the formation of the rose bush mainly depends on it.as during the spring sap flow it stimulates the growth of young shoots. Depending on the degree of cutting, distinguish between strong, medium and weak pruning

Pruning of tea-hybrid, polyanthus, miniature roses and roses of floribunda and grandiflora group

Flowers of these types of roses are located one on the peduncle or collected in racemose inflorescences, flower shoots are formed during each growing season, so strong( or short) pruning to 1-2 well-developed buds is applied to these garden groups of roses, on old strongshoots can be left 3-4 buds

Pruning of curly climbing roses

Climbing roses form long flexible shoots, flowers on flowering shoots are located in the upper and middle part of the lateral shoots of the plant,ozam applies weak( or long) cropping, in which undercut only otrosshie shoot tips

Crop park roses

Park rose strongly branched and form a tall, thick abundant flowering shrubs. For park roses, use a weak( or long) pruning, that is, only the upper thin parts of the shoots are cut off, as in the case of park roses, the flower sprouts develop only on the upper and middle parts of the shoots of the previous year.

Rules of the primary trimming

1. Pruning should not be performedmore than 1 cm above the eye, which should be directed outward, then the shoot that develops from the eye shoots also takes the desired direction outward( from the bush) in relation to the axis of the bush. If the shoot grows inside the bush, there will be a constant thickening of the crown, which will reduce the internal illumination of the plant.

2. Closely growing shoots must be removed so that there is no competition between them, which inevitably leads to weakening of each of the shoots. In this case, out of several shoots leave one, outward

In addition, it should be remembered that the crowded shoots leads to thickening of the bush.

3. When pruning for translation, when one of the shoots is cut out, do not leave a stump in the fork, the cut must be done smoothly so that there is no danger of frosting or decaying the hemp. At the same time, care must be taken not to cut off the neighboring shoot.

4. After trimming the lateral shoot, a small pinch remains on the carrier shoot, its cut must be sloped outward so that the water flows smoothly from it, not stagnating and causing rotting of the tissues. With the passage of time, new shoots will develop next to the left spike

The degree of trimming and its influence on the development of the plant

The degree of shortening of the shoot distinguishes between strong( or short), medium and weak( or long) pruning, each of which, accordingly,escape and development of the plant as a whole. When choosing the degree of trimming, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the structure of the plant of a rose of a particular garden group, in particular the place

for the formation of flowering shoots. Incorrect

pruning can damage the plant

and weaken the flowering.1. Escape to pruning.

2. The shoot was severely pruned. 3. Escape was subjected to

average pruning.4. The escape was subjected to weak pruning.

5. Development of the rose after a strong pruning.

6. Development of the rose after medium pruning.

7. Development of the rose after weak pruning of the

tea hybrids, polyanthus, floribunda group and miniature roses;

average, when left with 4-5 buds. Such a moderately short pruning concerns mainly remontant roses;

is weak or long. In this pruning, only the upper parts of the shoots are cut. This is done mainly in park and climbing roses, as it is their flower-bearing shoots that develop only on the upper and middle parts of last year's shoots.

More details can be considered system of trimming on the example of tea-hybrid roses. Features of the formation of flowering shoots in different groups of roses and determine the nature of spring pruning. In the first year of cultivation in young plants, a strong pruning is carried out, which causes a strong growth of the basal shoots and

Removing the sprouting shoots of

The grafted shoots from the part of the plant that belongs to the rootstock grow in grafted roses. This shoot should be removed so that it does not clog up the bush and does not take away the forces and juices of the plant. Cuttings of shoots are usually produced in the spring or summer as they grow.

Pruning roses in roses

Because a rose rose is only a teabag form of a tea hybrid, a polyanthus rose or a floribunda rose, it applies to all pruning rules relating to these groups of garden roses. Stamp roses are subjected to a strong( or short) pruning up to 1 -2 eyes, which on average equals 15-20 cm of the sprouting shoot

forming a bush with an open center and evenly sprouted. When pruning take into account the varietal characteristics:

the lower-grade varieties are cut more strongly;

among middle-aged on last year's shoots leave 3-5 eyes;

for strongly growing - 2-3.

In the following years, in spring, along with the forming strong pruning, pruning pruning is performed to regulate the light regime and lighten the bush. Cut out all the old shoots, shoots that grow inside, broken and frozen. As the bush ages, 2-3 shoots are removed every year. Young and badly overwintered bushes can remove buds and delay flowering, which contributes to the formation of a more powerful shrub due to lateral branching.

Summer pruning roses

Summers must regularly cut off blossoming flowers or inflorescences of roses, to maintain the decorative plants and stimulate their re-flowering.

1. In tea-hybrid roses, remove the flower stem with a faded flower on the top.

2. The whole branching flower-stem with the inflorescence of

is cut in polyanthus roses. Summer pruning of the continues during the entire flowering period and is reduced to tea and hybrid roses to cut flowers and inflorescences, while the repair ones stimulate new growth and flowering. The flowers are cut to a strong, outwardly directed shoot.

The shoots are cut with a sharp pruner 5-6 mm above the developed kidney and at an angle of 45 °.The surface of the cut must be smooth, without cracks and burrs. It must be covered with a garden fence.

Basic Rules for Trimming Roses

Pruning roses is a simple operation, but requiring knowledge of its general principles.

Pruning should only be carried out with a sharp garden knife or pruner.

The cut must be 5 mm above the kidney with a slight inclination from it.

Trim always shoots to healthy wood.

Cut to the kidney located on the outside of the shoot, so as not to obscure the center of the bush.

Sometimes, after a pruning from a single kidney, 2-3 shoots grow in strong rose plants. Leave one, the others are removed.

All weak thin, intersecting, diseased, dead shoots are cut to the level of soil or healthy wood.

On the bush leave so many shoots to ensure air exchange and good illumination of the bush. This excludes the development of such fungal diseases as powdery mildew, black spot, rust, etc., which arise in conditions of stagnant air.

To get high-quality cuts, except for short pruning, you also need to pinch a part of the kidneys on the shoots. This method reduces the number of growing shoots and improves the quality of flowers. Inoculated plants are below the site of grafting, and in the stems around the trunk there is a wild shoot, which should be regularly removed. Roses are cut in the buds state in the early cool hours, when the plants have a high turgor, with a sharp knife or a pruner, so that the ends of the flowering shoots are not squeezed. Depending on the varietal characteristics, the roses are cut at different stages of the bud's dissolution.

Diseases and pests. The most severely affected roses are diseases such as gray mold, powdery mildew, downy mildew, rust, infectious burn, leaf spot, marsonin, perksporosis, septoria. The most dangerous pests are rose aphids, leafworms and leafhoppers, gall mites, sprouted sawflies, spider mites, etc. Sanitary and preventive measures also play a major role in the protection of roses from damage and diseases: it is the careful observance of agrotechnical conditions, and systematicpruning plants affected parts, and regular spraying them with appropriate protective and medicinal preparations, infusions of herbs.