Sowing, planting and transplanting
There are two main ways of sowing: on seedlings and in open ground. Each of them is applied depending on the characteristics of the culture, the requirements for its cultivation, the climatic conditions of the region. Annual crops, as already mentioned, are grown only from seeds by sowing in the soil or on seedlings, followed by picking and transplanting into the soil. Biennial crops are also grown through seeds in the spring in spring, followed by a permanent transplant at the end of summer. Perennials can be grown and multiplied in various ways: generatively through seeds and vegetatively by dividing the bush, rhizomes, bulbs, cuttings.
When sowing in the soil, if the seeds are sown in a scattered way, they are gently weighed into the soil, placing a plaque on top, the crops are mulched with decayed manure or peat, the layer thickness depending on the size of the seeds. Small seeds are sown to a depth of 0.5 cm, medium-large to a depth of 1.5 cm, and large ones to a depth of 3 cm.
In ordinary planting, the seeds are first covered with earth from open furrows, then the crops are mulched with decayed manure and peat soil.
The depth of seed sowing depends not only on their size, but also on the type and texture of the soil: if the soil is heavy, wet, the seeds are sown finely, and if the dry soil is deeper. In addition, in spring sowing, seeds are usually placed closer to the soil surface than in the autumn.
Most annuals blossom well when sown with seeds in the ground, followed by thinning( astra, zinnia, etc.).Perennial floral plants are planted in autumn or spring. Biannual( forget-me-nots, pansies, daisies, bells, etc.) are planted late in summer or early autumn, so that plants can survive until frosts and give new roots. But it is also possible to plant them early in spring - in April-May. Bulbous plants( tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, etc.) planted in late August - early September.
Perennials are planted in a permanent place in the spring or early autumn. Species that give a large number of young roots in autumn - perennial asters, helenium, iris, peony and others, should be planted from autumn. All bulbs are planted only in the autumn. They take root, early in the spring they grow and blossom.
The end of summer( the second half of August) and the beginning of autumn( the first decade of September) should be considered the best for .Perennials planted since autumn, especially winter-hardy species, should be sheltered for winter to avoid their freezing, which is especially dangerous on heavy clay soils. For this purpose, dry leaf, peat and humus are used.
In spring, perennials very early on grow and develop rapidly, so the spring planting time( transplant) is extremely short. Practically in the spring, you can start planting immediately after thawing the soil and continue it until the onset of intensive growth of the aboveground part of perennials. In the middle belt, the most favorable time for planting is the second half of April - the beginning of May. In spring it is recommended to transplant species that are less winter hardy and weakly rooting from autumn.
For seed and vegetative reproduction, in order to better establish germinating seeds and cuttings, special substances are used that are growth stimulants. For example, the treatment of green cuttings with heteroauxin significantly increases the percentage of rooting and enhances the development of the root system. Heteroauxin is used in low concentrations also for soaking seeds.2 hours after air drying, the seeds are sown. Seedlings appear a few days earlier in comparison with ordinary crops, grow quickly and amicably.
It is not advisable to transplant during intensive growth, as this will delay the development of plants and complicate the transplantation process. But if, for any unforeseen circumstances, there is a need for a summer transplant, the plant should be carefully excavated, transplanted, and abundantly watered regularly. It should be noted that perennials with long fleshy roots - lupine, cowberry, poppy - even with good care very badly endure a summer transplant.
depth of planting, , which depends on plant size and species, planting time( 5-30 cm), is of great importance for further development;should be guided by the root neck of the old shoot, which should be at the same level as before the transplant.
Plants that have a root rosette of leaves( host, oriental poppy and a number of others) are planted so that the center of the rosette is not buried into the ground.
Both too deep and shallow landing are undesirable: with a shallow autumn planting, the danger of freezing increases, too deep planting leads to late germination of plants and weakens flowering.
Some rules for planting and transplanting perennials
In the intended place, prepare a pit of such dimensions that it can freely accommodate the root system.
Roots before planting are shortened by a third, too long roots are cut even more. This will stimulate the development of lateral branches.
Fleshy roots, tubers and rhizomes should be kept as much as possible, broken or decayed - remove with a sharp knife. Cut the slices for disinfection with coal powder or ash.
It is recommended to compost or land in a pit with a well-dispersed manure in the pit. The use of fresh manure is categorically unacceptable.
After this, the roots are evenly placed in the pit, covered with earth, densely crimped and watered abundantly.
When planting perennials on permanent sites, they are given different feeding areas, depending on the plant species and the purpose of planting. In other words, should be observed between and plant when planting.
In a rare planting perennials develop more luxuriantly, abundantly bloom and grow longer in one place, without the need of a transplant. In thickened planting shoots in plants soon begin to stretch, become weakened and do not give a normal flowering. Often, there is an increased development of fungal diseases. With too large areas of power, the necessary closeness of the group is not obtained soon. Therefore, in flower decoration, in group plantings, in the rabbit, it is necessary to keep such distances between plants, in which perennials will grow into groups that are sufficiently decorative by the density of the next year. In this case, given the size of the plant, should be guided by the dimensions of the plant. For strongly grown plants and pions between rows, a distance of 100 cm is left, between plants in the row is 80 or 100 cm. For medium-unripe plants, the interrow distances are reduced to 80-60 cm, between plants in the row is 60-30 cm. Small plants and bulbous plantsplanted more often.
In the early years, while perennials did not grow, wide row-spacing can be used for sowing annual plants. When planting perennials on a slice, it is necessary to increase the distance between the plants, which will give the largest yield of cut flowers. This is especially important for a group of perennials of long standing with a long residence in one place.
Density of perennial plantations
( pcs / m2)
Large vigorous 1-2
Medium-sized 3-4
Low 6-12
Low-growing 15-35
Miniature up to 50
Small-branched
( woodlands, muscaries) 100 or more