Cultivation of black currant
Choosing a place for
The successful choice of a place for planting black currant largely determines its durability and productivity.
The most favorable for culture is the middle zone, with relatively cool summers, relatively mild winters and sufficient moisture. North of Vologda and in harsh climatic conditions of the eastern regions, many currant varieties, despite the relative cold resistance, often suffer from low winter temperatures( flower buds freeze, the trees freeze or run dry).
Black currant is best planted on a flat area or on a small slope( no more than 5-10 °) in the lower or middle part of it. The south of the cultivation zone, the lower the relief should be the area under the currant. In the upper parts of the slope the soil dries quickly - the berries are small, and in many varieties they prematurely ripen and fall off. In open and elevated places, when cooling occurs, strong winds interfere with the flight of insects and prevent good pollination.
Despite the relative winter hardiness, black currant to a large extent requires natural protection from cold northern and eastern winds. Such protection can serve as a structure, a fruit garden and such fast-growing shrubs as acacia, lilac, chubushnik, hazel.
In the steppe regions this culture suffers from dry winds. Without protection, dry winds drain the soil and increase the evaporation of water so much that the roots can not cope with water supply from the soil, and the currant withers, gives a weak growth and often loses its crop. Great damage is caused by winds blowing off the snow cover from the site, without which in the northern and middle zones the soil freezes hard, especially the root system of plants.
For saffron currant dish-like relief depressions, closed depressions and basins are not suitable. In such places in the spring, cold air masses are retained and flowers and ovaries die during spring frosts. In the basins, dew and fogs are usually retained longer than elsewhere. And under these conditions bushes are strongly affected by fungal diseases.
Black currant grows best and fructifies on a fairly humid soil with a permeable subsoil layer. But sites with a high location of groundwater( above 1.5 m) should be avoided. For the black currant, low wetlands, which do not have a runoff, with excessive moisture, are also unsuitable. On temporarily flooded with hollow waters( up to 1 m) coastal land, currant grows relatively well: in the thick layer of silt on the shoots additional roots are formed.
Under the black currant, you must choose a site with enough fertile soil. These are well-cultivated, structural soils of medium mechanical composition.
Soil must be clean from perennial weeds, such as reed bindweed, waterfowl, sorrel and wheat grass creeping. If the soil is heavily clogged, it is better to keep the soil under clean steam, systematically destroying during the summer growing annual and perennial weeds. The best predecessors are perennial legumes( clover), row crops or vegetable crops.
Of all berry crops, black currant is most sensitive to increased acidity of the soil. At pH below 4.5 the plant develops poorly, is more affected by disease and fruiting worse, giving small, prone to shedding berries.
Currant refers to shade-tolerant plants, but this does not mean that it is shade-loving. Best of all, it fructifies under normal sunlight or with a slight shading, for example, when planting in the aisles of a young garden.
Pre-plant soil preparation
Blackcurrant is very responsive to the improvement of growing conditions.
Before proceeding to landing, the site must be prepared. Pre-plant soil preparation consists of deepening the arable horizon, filling the soil with organic and mineral fertilizers, liming and local cultivation( in planting pits).
In cultivated soil, the depth of the arable layer and the content of organic substances increase. The earth becomes structural and air-permeable, it warms up well, the water regime improves. All this creates favorable conditions for strengthening the activity of soil bacteria and, consequently, for feeding the currant.
After planting, it is difficult to improve the structure and increase the organic matter content in the soil. Plantation in this case will never be highly productive.
If the soil is heavily waterlogged, the area should be drained. For the diversion of water digs open or closed ditches.
Black currants can be planted in the spring( in April), before the buds blossom. By spring planting proceed, as soon as the soil ceases to be smeared;at this time in the earth a lot of moisture, planted plants will get accustomed quickly and well. It must be borne in mind that the blackcurrant is beginning to grow early, and however we are in a hurry with the spring works, the growth of bushes at spring planting is delayed and the bushes develop less than when planted in the fall. In later periods, when the currant is often planted with loose leaves, the survival rate is sharply reduced, especially in dry and hot weather.
Early autumn( late September - first half of October) - the best time for planting black currant : still relatively warm, and the soil already has enough moisture from autumn rains. During the autumn-winter period the soil settles well and thickens around the bushes, new accessory roots are formed, and in spring the plants start growing early.
In areas where there is little snow and possible freezing of the root system, it is advisable to plant the plant in the spring. To protect the kidneys from opening, in the spring the seedlings pritenyayut or short cut. Plant the plants early, as soon as the soil permits.
For 20-30 days before planting, the currants perform a continuous cultivation of the soil: the area is leveled, 8-10 kg / m2( up to 20) of manure or compost, 50-70 g( up to 200) of superphosphate, depending on the fertility level,35-45 g of potassium sulfate or 20-30 g / m2 of potassium chloride. Potassium chloride is best replaced with ash( 100-150 g / m2).If necessary, add lime( 300-800 g / m2).But for better assimilation by plants of food elements lime is better to make in advance. Fertilizer is distributed evenly over the soil surface, and the site is dumped onto the spade bayonet with the formation turn.
Regardless of the timing of the planting of currant planting holes are usually prepared in the autumn - 2-3 weeks so that the soil in them settles and chlorine and harmful substances introduced with manure evaporate. The planting pits dig deeper, the worse the soil. Recommended pit sizes: width 50-60 cm, depth 40-50 cm. These values should be 1.5-2 times larger than the size of the root system of the seedling.
At the bottom of the pit, the top fertile soil layer is dumped and mixed thoroughly with fertilizers: 1-1.5 buckets of compost or overgrown manure, 200-300 g of superphosphate, 40-50 g of potassium sulfate or 300 g of ash. This reserve of phosphorus and potassium will last for several years. To improve the aeration, you can also make 1.5-2 buckets of peat. To horse manure it is recommended to add any organic residues,( sawdust, straw, etc.).
In acidic soils( pH below 4-5), 100-200 grams of ground limestone must be introduced into the planting pit. If the soil is non-acidic, lime is required a little, mainly to neutralize the acidity of the mineral fertilizers introduced. Twice the dose of lime and in the case where ash is used instead of potassium salt( the ash contains lime).For the liming of the soil, many substances containing calcium are suitable: lime-pushenka( lime, slaked in a small amount of water), marl, ground chalk, dolomite flour, peat ash. The solid materials are preliminarily ground and sieved through a sieve with holes of 2-3 mm. In light soils, dolomite flour gives better results, besides magnesium, besides magnesium.
Mineral nitrogen fertilizer is never added to the planting pit. It is better to give in the form of additional fertilizing after the plants finally get accustomed and in spring they will start to grow.
After planting, the lower, less fertile soil layer is scattered throughout the site. Gradually, under the influence of fertilizers and proper processing, a small-structure soil will be cultivated.
Planting material
The quality of the planting material is critical in planting black currant. Cultivated from good seedlings, plants begin to bear fruit for the second year after planting. Planting material must be clean and free from the most dangerous pests and diseases, therefore, seedlings must be purchased in nurseries and farms that have a corresponding quality certificate for the raw material. It is desirable that the seedlings were obtained from healthy queen cells( super-elite or elite).Such seedlings are more expensive, but these costs are justified.
Most often, for planting use strong layers or biennial seedlings of currant, which can be attributed to the first or second commercial grade according to the standard.
| Parameters | Characteristics and norms for commercial varieties | |
|
| First | Second |
| Assorted cleanliness,% not less | 100 | 100 |
| Age of seedlings, years | 1-2 | 1-2 |
| Root system: lignification | complete | complete |
| bark color | from light to dark- Brown | |
| number of roots, pcs.at least |
|
|
| in the branched root system of | 4 | 3 |
| in thick-leafed | is not counted as | |
| root length: |
|
|
| in branched | 20 | 15 |
| in thick-humid | 15 | 20 |
| Aboveground part: |
|
|
| number of shoots, pcs.not less: |
|
|
| 2-year-old seedlings | 3 | 2 |
| incl.varieties of currant, weakly branched | 1 | 1 |
| 1-year-old seedlings | 1 | 1 |
| Diameter of base of aerial part, cm, not less: |
|
|
| seedlings with open root system, | 1,0 | 0,8 |
| 2-year-old |
|
|
| seedlings with open root system, | 0,8 | 0,6 |
| 1-year-old |
|
|
| seedlings with closed root system, | 0,8 | 0,6 |
| 2-year-old |
|
|
| seedlings with closed root system, | 0,6 | 0,5 |
| 1-year-old |
|
|
| length of shoots after trimming, cm, at least | 30 | 25 |
The shoots of currant saplings with an open root system should be without leaves and shortened to 25-30 cm. Plants with leaves look, of course, more attractive, but they are large in black currant and after evacuation from a large leaf surface a lot of moisture evaporates. In this case, the shoots and roots of the plant are strongly drained, which inevitably affects their survival and viability. Realization of seedlings with a closed root system is possible with leaves and without shortening the stems. The seedlings must be non-dried, with well-formed unblown kidneys, without mechanical damage.
In accordance with the technical requirements, the currant seedlings are divided into two commodity varieties.(Tab.)
Characteristics of commercial varieties
It is not allowed to infect seedlings with currant bud, mite, aphids, currant herb, shields, parasitic nematodes, shoot gall midges and quarantine objects.
Age of currant saplings is determined when growing from lignified cuttings according to the number of years of growth in the nursery;when multiplying by layers and green cuttings - taking into account the growth in the mother liquor or when rooted in an artificial mist.
In case of defeat with powdery mildew, pruning of the shoot tips is required.
When transporting the planting material, the roots of the seedlings must be preserved from drying, for this they should be closed with a wet burlap or matting, packed in film, and immediately upon opening the plant, it should be slightly opened and watered abundantly. If it is found that the seedlings are very dry, they are lowered into the water for 2-3 days, no more.
Preference should be given to biennial plants or annual saplings with a strong root system.
On light soils with sufficient moisture reserve permanent rooted cuttings can be planted, however, on moderate or heavy soils the cuttings will not grow well and develop.
Landing
As a rule, a wide-row compacted scheme of planting currant with a distance of 1.8-2 m between the rows is used. The distance in the row is -1 m. When planting tall varieties and varieties with a dense and spreading form of a bush, the distance between the plants in the row is increased to 1.2-1.5 m. Varieties with a compact crown can be planted closer to each other.
Plants can also be placed with tapes. With this method, the distance between plants is reduced to 0.5-0.8 m. When growing, bushes merge into one continuous band.
Such a dense arrangement of plants allows you to receive in the early years of high yields per unit area. Simultaneously, weed control is simplified. However, it is more difficult to care for such a tape, moreover, because of the strong thickening of plants, the spread of pests and diseases is easier. And the crops with thickened planting from the age of six begin to decline rapidly.
In the first 2-3 years after planting in the aisles, you can grow vegetables, root vegetables, strawberries or flowers, placing them at a distance of 40-60 cm from the bushes - this contributes to the cultivation of the soil. On very poor soils, good results are obtained by sowing in rows between legumes: peas, beans or lupine.
It is recommended to plant 3-4 varieties of different maturity on the site.
Planting of black currant seedling and its pruning when planting
Before planting, the roots of the seedlings are slightly pruned( the damaged roots - to a healthy place) and dipped into a clay with a clay. The black currant is planted obliquely and with a depth of 8-12 cm.
With inclined planting, the recessed stem buds give strong vertical shoots, thanks to which a wide bush is quickly formed, and powerful accessory roots that easily form on the embedded stem of plants will provide strong growth andhigh productivity of currants. Shallow planting leads to the fact that the bush grows in the form of a small tree and in the future will be short-lived and not very productive.
On heavy clay soils do not plant shrubs deeply. With a very deep planting, the roots get into the soil layer, where heat and air penetrate badly, the root system stops growing and partially dies.
In the event that groundwater is located close to the soil surface, black currant is planted on mounds or ridges of meter width.
Immediately after planting, the plants must be shortened, leaving 2-3 buds on each shoot.
When planting, the roots of the plants are carefully spread out so that they do not bend upward, and they are covered with earth of the upper humus horizon, gradually compacting the soil. Then the seedling is slightly shaken, so that the earth evenly fills the entire space between the roots and there are no voids left.
Planting of black currant seedling and pruning when planting
When the roots are covered with soil, but the pit is not yet completely filled with earth, watering( about half a bucket per bush) is performed, after which the pit is finally covered with soil mixed with fertilizers, the soil around the plant againcompact, make a hole and water 1/2 - 1 bucket per bush).The surface of the hole is mulched with a layer of humus or peat with a thickness of 5-10 cm.
When carrying out planting works, the soil in row rows is heavily compacted, so it is necessary to loosen it immediately.
All planting works are organized in such a way that the roots of the seedlings are kept as little as possible in the open air.
If, for some reason, it was not possible to plant the acquired seedlings on a permanent place, then for the winter they must be digged. To do this, dig a ditch in the direction from west to east, a depth of 50 and a width of 60 cm. In this trench the plants are placed in one row, branches to the south;the roots are covered with earth, the soil around the plants is compacted.
Care after planting
In order for the blackcurrant to yield high yields, it must be taken care of. All measures should be aimed at the development of strong annual increments - the stronger the growth of the current year, the more abundant the harvest will be next year.
It should be remembered that without good and systematic tillage all other methods of care( pruning, pest and disease control, fertilizer) are ineffective. Especially careful care requires young plants.
At the end of April - beginning of May, the soil around the bushes is being processed. The soil is better not to dig, but to loosen to a shallow depth( 6-8 cm) as soon as the top layer dries. Too early loosening, when the soil has not yet warmed up, produces bad results: it does not crumble, but falls off with lumps and smears. To keep the soil around the bushes in a loose, moist and clean condition from weeds, it is loosened at least once every 2-3 weeks to a depth of 6-8 cm in the near-shore zone and up to 10-12 cm in the aisle. After loosening, the surface is leveled with rakes to reduce the evaporation of moisture.
As the root system of the black currant is superficial, special attention should be paid to weeding, as weeds, especially wheat grass, quickly colonize fertile soil and dry it up, depriving young plants of food and moisture.
Mulching prevents the growth of weeds, creates a favorable water and nutrient regimes in the root layer - the soil does not condense and does not dry out. With good and abundant mulching, the need for watering and loosening of the soil is greatly reduced.
As mulch use humus, well reparted manure, decomposed peat( up to 10-15 kg per bush), green grass, dry leaves or a thick, non-woven, dark-colored non-woven cloth. Weed out young weeds can also be suitable for these purposes - they decompose quickly, but weeding can not be left on the site: they slowly decompose, they make it difficult to dig through the soil in autumn and, moreover, when the seeds are scattered, the seeds become very clogged.
In the first years after planting, only the trunks with a diameter of 50-70 cm are mulched. In adult bushes the diameter of the circle increases, and when the rows close, the whole strip of the row is 1-1.25 cm wide. When mulching with straw or sawdust, it is necessary to additionally apply nitrogen fertilizers.
Autumn mulch from manure, peat, compost is embedded in the soil during digging;Straw and sawdust are taken out of the plot or burned.
In autumn, heavier loamy soil is dug under the bushes shallow and left for the winter lumpy for better moisture retention. Between the clods the snow is well retained;In the spring, thawed and rainwater does not flow off the site, but lingers between the layers and penetrates the soil. In addition, when the layer is turned around, the rhizomes of weeds dry up, the leaves are stuck deep into the soil, affected by fungal diseases, and the pests that have turned out outside wintering in the soil are killed by frost and destroyed by birds. In the spring, when clodding the soil, the lumps easily scatter.
On light and fairly loose soils, they are limited to shallow loosening( up to 5-8 cm) near the bushes.
To protect against the contamination of berries in young and spreading bushes, and to accelerate their maturation( especially in cold and rainy weather), use supports - supports.
Irrigation
Black currant is a moisture-loving culture. High moisture requirements are due to the fact that the bulk of the roots of black currant is in the surface horizons of the soil - in the layer of 20-60 cm.
In spring, the roots of the black currant grow actively: there is still moisture after winter, but in dry weather in summer and autumn in the absenceRain, especially on light soils, watering is necessary.
Smorodina is in dire need of watering in the phase of strong growth of shoots and ovary formation( beginning of June), during the filling of berries( the third decade of June - the first ten days of July), and after picking berries( the second decade of August) when black currants form rudimentsflowers in young kidneys( differentiation of the kidneys).Thus, the lack of moisture affects not only the harvest of the current, but also the next year. It will not be superfluous to water and before flowering currants. If the autumn is dry, before the onset of winter( in October), the currant is watered so that it will overwinter better.
The exact timing of irrigation depends on the soil and climatic conditions and the actual soil moisture, which can be determined by yourself. To do this, plantations from a depth of 12-15 cm take the soil and strongly squeeze in the hand. The formed lump at the height of the chest is released from the hand: if a lump hits the ground, it does not crumble, then the moisture in the soil is sufficient and can be withheld with watering.
It is better to water the currant rarely, but abundantly, spending 30-50 liters of water per 1 m2.The rate of irrigation should be such that the soil is moistened to the full depth of the root layer: about 40-50 cm in the first years after planting and 50-60 cm in the following.
Before watering around the circumference of the bush at a distance of 30-40 cm from the ends of the branches make a groove 10-15 cm deep. Watering can be done by sprinkling or by irrigation furrows cut along the row from both sides of the plants( furrow depth 10-12 cm).After watering, furrows are closed. Sprinkling irrigation gives a more even distribution of moisture in the soil, does not destroy the layer of mulch, refreshes plants and moistens the surface layer of air.
With all methods of surface irrigation at the end of irrigation, loosening of the soil is necessary in order to prevent the formation of a crust on its surface. Irrigation is often combined with top dressing.
In the steppe regions of the Volga region, especially in hot and dry years, the amount of watering is adjusted to 6-8 during the vegetation period.
Unlimited irrigation tightens the growth of shoots, their aging is delayed, winter hardiness decreases.
Fertilizer, fertilizing
Like all berry bushes, currant is characterized by rapid development and early in fruiting - often already in the second year after planting. Large removal of nutrients from the soil is also associated with the annual pruning of bushes and a high yield of berries. If you do not care about renewal of soil fertility, inadequate mineral nutrition will soon manifest itself in a decrease in the yield and size of the fruit. The currant is considered an undemanding plant. Meanwhile, reconciling with the depletion of the soil, the currant generously responds to the application of fertilizers and good care.
The yield of black currant is mainly influenced by nitrogen fertilizer introduced in the previous year. With a lack of nitrogen, the leaves fade, become pale in color, the growth of shoots is delayed. Small leaves in early August acquire a red tint. When caring for the black currant, it is desirable to combine nitrogen with organic and mineral fertilizers.
The lack of phosphorus also affects primarily the yield and the size of the berries.
Potassium fertilizers, especially potassium sulfate, affect the sugar content of berries. With a lack of potassium along the edges of the leaves, a yellow border appears that resembles burns.
Preliminary preparation of the soil and introduction of organic and mineral fertilizers in the planting pit provide the black currant bushes with adequate nutrition for the first 2 years.
Beginning from the third year, the main fertilizer is applied to the autumn digging of soil around the bush: 8-10 kg of reparted manure, 100-150 g of superphosphate, 50-70 potassium salt or 200 g of ash. On heavy clayey, acidic soils, lime is used( 500-700 g / m2).When choosing potassium fertilizers, chlorine-containing compounds should be avoided, which have an undesirable effect on the root system of the currant. It is better to use potassium sulfate or ash.
On fertile plantations, the norm of organic fertilizers is increased to 30 kg per bush. If only mineral fertilizers are introduced, then their doses are increased by 1.5 times. The soil around the bushes is dug to a depth of 6-10 cm, without crushing the earth's clods. You should not strive for a thorough digging of the earth, so as not to damage the roots. You can not spend it in a very late time, because the damaged roots do not have time to recover before the frost.
Nitrogen fertilizers are introduced, starting from the second year after planting, mainly in the form of fertilizing. Feeding is carried out in several terms: early in the spring, during the formation of the ovaries and after harvesting. The best way is for this purpose to use diluted slurry( 1: 3-4), bird droppings( 1: 10-12) and urea( 40-50 g per 10 liters of water).
Liquid top dressings are introduced into the grooves dug along the perimeter of the crown of the bush. The depth of grooves is 15-20 cm. It is better to carry out fertilizing after rain or after watering( one bucket is enough for one bush).After applying fertilizers, the grooves are closed.
If there is a lack of organic fertilizers, you can use so-called green fertilizer. For this purpose, lupines, peas, and vetch are sown in the inter-rows, and by the fall, legumes are dug in a sloping or rolled form.
Organic fertilizers( repaired manure, compost, peat, green grass) can be introduced in the form of mulch, followed by sealing in the soil in the fall. The layer of mulch should be no less than 5-8 cm. The ground soil less loses moisture, while improving the thermal regime, no crust is formed. Mulch prevents the germination of weeds, which minimizes the number of treatments and preserves the soil structure.
Good results are obtained by foliar dressing of plants with nitrogen fertilizers or combined solutions containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and trace elements. In a bucket of water, dissolve 50-100 g of urea, or 50-70 g of ammonium nitrate, the same amount of potassium sulfate, 200 g of superphosphate. Phosphorus fertilizers are poorly soluble in water, so first the required amount is diluted in a small amount of water, thoroughly mixed, insisted and poured for some time. The sediment is again flooded with water, and all operations are repeated. Both the merged solutions are combined and used for spraying. The processing times of the currant are confined to important phases of plant development: after flowering( the treatment can be repeated after 10-15 days) and after harvesting during the differentiation of flower buds. In order not to cause burns of leaves, spraying is carried out early in the morning or in the evening.
Foliar dressing can be combined with spraying a plantation against pests and diseases.
Pruning
Pruning is one of the most important jobs for the care of black currant plants.
Blackcurrant reacts very quickly to timely and correct pruning by increasing the yield. This effect is associated with high early ripening of the kidneys, a short life cycle of development of the basal branches, a rapid change in the growth of twigs and an immediate reaction of plants to the disturbance of the aboveground part of the plant.
The purpose of pruning: the formation of a powerful bush with good growths, with strong fruiting and growth buds, regulation of fruiting and improving the lighting conditions of all parts of the plant.
Without trimming, the bushes become heavier, the branches grow old, lose their productivity and die, the yield decreases.
In most black currant varieties, the most valuable crop is concentrated on the annual growth of two to three-year branches( the third is the fourth order of branching).Over the years, fructification is shifted to a one-year increment of higher orders of branching, moving away from the center to the periphery. The higher the order of branching, the shorter the growth and the smaller the berries. For the sixth year of life, the branches of black currant almost have no growth. Such branches should be removed and replaced with young radical shoots.
The yield of black currant is directly proportional to the value of the total annual growth. The task of pruning is to achieve the appearance of strong annual shoots in the crown and a certain number of basal shoots.
For the uniform development of the bush, you must have the same number of branches of each age, in order to replace the same number of old branches each year with young ones. Compact, easy-to-use crown consists of 15-20 branches of different ages, of which 3-4 branches are cut out every year older than 5-6 years of age. In varieties that bear not only on the annual growth, but also on 2-3-year-old fruit trees, annually cut only 2-3 old branches.
The age of the branches is determined by the number of branches and by wrinkled incrusions - the outer annual rings indicating the boundary between the increments of different years. An additional sign for determining the age of the branch is the color of the cortex: in young branches it is light, in the old branches it is dark, almost black.
Formation of young black currant plants( according to Kudryavtsu RP): 1 - cutting of weak zero shoots( a);twisted and thickening shoots( b);shortening of last year's growth( c) to stimulate branching;2 - shortening of zero shoots( a);their branching after shortening( b)
When forming blackcurrant bushes in young plants, 3-4 strong, well-placed radicals leave each other until a wide strong bush consisting of 15-20 branches is formed. The wider the base of the bush, the better the area is used;the middle of the bush does not thicken. This ends the formation of the bush. Next, begin each year to cut at the base of the bush to 3-4 old branches and in return to leave for 3-4 strong root shoots. The removal of old branches causes the awakening of the sleeping buds at the base of the branches and the formation of new radical( zero) shoots that are formed from the adnexal buds on the rhizome or from the kidneys on the buried part of the branches.
Varieties of black currant differ in their ability to branch and form root shoots. In varieties with strong growth of the root shoots and weak branching, it is recommended to shorten the root shoots by 1/3 of their length, and all lateral branches - 3-5 buds, in order to strengthen the branching of the bush.
In varieties with a weak growth of basal shoots and strong branching, one should additionally cut 1-2 strong lower lateral shoots in adult branches to strengthen the germination of the basal buds, and only shoots with bare buds are removed on zero shoots.
Pruning an adult black currant bush( according to Kudryavtsu RP): bush before( a) and after trimming( b)
The grades of the third group occupy an intermediate position according to these features. In such varieties, shoots are shortened by 1/2 length to strengthen the branching, and lateral shoots on adult branches are shortened to a well-formed bud.
The bush should be well lit and ventilated. If the branches are poorly lit in the middle of the bush, the berries will only be tied up on the periphery. Regardless of the varietal characteristics, all the branches lying on the ground, dry, diseased, broken, growing inside the bush, must be removed;superfluous and weak basal shoots, as well as frosted tops of annual growth. Shrubs should be sparse, without unnecessary thickening and weaving branches.
You can trim the bushes in the autumn, after the fall of the fall, but preferably in the early spring, during the sap movement( before the bud budding).
Rejuvenation of old and thinning of neglected bushes
On neglected areas, when plants were not taken care of for a long time, all sick, broken and weak branches, creating excessive shading and thickening, as well as old ones, with a weak growth and a large number of dry branches and dead carpets, are removed. If such bushes have several strong root shoots, which can replace low-yielding branches, then you should rejuvenate the pruning.
Rejuvenation should be carried out for 2-3 years, so as not to sharply reduce the yield.
In the first year, remove half or a third of the oldest branches, cutting them at the soil level or over a strong young lateral branch. The following year, another one-third or a half is removed and at the same time the extra, weakest branches, unnecessary for the formation of the bush, are removed. In the third year, remove all remaining old branches.
Rejuvenation should be carried out against a background of high agrotechnics, gradually forming a bush. For the fifth year, when the rejuvenated bush is formed, proceed to systematic pruning and thinning. This rejuvenation can prolong the fruiting of black currant for 8-10 years.
Pruning a neglected black currant bush( according to Kudryaviu RP): a - bush before pruning;b - bush after pruning;c - rejuvenation of a separate branch with transfer to a young strong branch
Harvesting
Harvesting is the most laborious work when growing currants. Labor productivity in the collection of berries depends on the yield, the size of the berries and the simultaneity of their maturation. All the sick and pest-affected berries are collected separately and destroyed.
In black currant berries in the brush are often not the same in size and do not always ripen at the same time: earlier ripen larger at the base of the brush. Depending on the size of the plantation and the nature of the use of berries, the harvest is collected in one or two or three doses. In small areas and in the
manor gardens, berries are harvested individually, in bulk 2-3 times during the full maturation period. If berries need to be sent for a long distance, then remove whole brushes, when they ripen the first berries. Fruits collected in an immature state, ripen in a few days, but in many ways lose their taste.
Delayed with the collection should not be, since ripe berries quite easily crumble, in addition, their taste often deteriorates.
The picking season is long and depends on the selection of varieties. Collect the currant better in the morning, when the dew and shrubs will dry up, or in the afternoon, when the heat drops. In cloudy weather, the collection time does not matter. Berries collected in sunny, hot weather or during rain, quickly deteriorate.
Collect berries in small baskets of shingles or sieves with a capacity of 3-4 kg. It is impossible to pour berries from one container to another, as they crumble, and their commercial qualities are reduced.
Collected berries are stored in a cool place prior to use or transportation.
Protection against spring frosts
In the middle belt, there is often damage to the flowering currant with late spring frosts. The most dangerous are the sudden pre-exposure to frost after warm days. Signs of the onset of a night frost can be a sharp cooling in the evening hours, clear skies and bright stars.
To protect flowering shrubs from frosts, spraying with water and smoking are used.
When the garden is sprinkled, the humidity of the air around the plants increases. During a decrease in temperature, a frost is formed with simultaneous release of heat, and the temperature around the plants increases by 1-2 degrees. Humidified soil well passes heat from the lower layers and therefore slowly cools.
Spraying with water requires a lot of time: after all, it should be done 5-6 times during the night, and not only the plants themselves should be moist, but also the soil under them. The first spraying is carried out in the first hour of the night, the second - at the beginning of the freezing. If there is a threat of a return of cold weather, you should try at least to shed the soil under the bushes in advance.
If the site is large, then smoking can help. You can use smoke bombs or bonfires. After 10-15 m, lay piles consisting of moist branches, needles, brushwood, garden rubbish, straw manure. In the upper part there should be poorly combustible material. Heaps of combustible materials are placed on the site in advance. They are located in one line on the side of the section from where air movement is felt in the wind.
The fires should burn for a long time - 3-4 hours. Smoke begins when the air temperature drops to 1 ° C( at 2-3 o'clock in the morning), and ends an hour after the air temperature rises above 0 ° C.
Recently, with the threat of frosts, flowering plants are entirely covered with white nonwoven or some improvised material. Only cover the bushes.
Before the bud budding from the currant, you can bend the branches to the ground and release them only after the formation of the ovaries.
There will be no more frostbite if the cuckoo regularly cuckles and the red mountain ash grows.
Growing under the
film To obtain early berries, the currant bushes can be placed in 2 rows according to the scheme of 1.25 x 1 m. Early in the spring, the plantings are covered with a film, fixing it on arcs. Dimensions of the film shelter: length 50-60 m, width 4.4 m. In the film tunnel a beehive is placed with bees. This method allows you to accelerate maturation for 3-4 weeks. The film is removed after harvesting.