Red currant - care and medicinal properties

The first mention in the sources of the red currant dates back to the Middle Ages. In Russia red currant is cultivated everywhere.

Red currant berries contain from 5 to 12% of sugars, up to 3,7% of organic acids, pectin and tannins, vitamins C and P, carotene, mineral salts.

Redcurrant juice well quenches thirst, berries and juice serve as an excellent means to improve appetite. Redcurrant juice activates the activity of the intestine. Juice has a diaphoretic effect, and it is prescribed for colds. Juice has a purifying effect, it helps to remove uric acid salts from the body.

By its chemical composition and biological effect to the red currant are close berries of white currant. However, in these berries there are significantly fewer vitamins, in particular ascorbic acid.

This berry perfectly grows and fructifies everywhere, and for the Northwest it is one of the main berry crops. Unpretentious in general, the bush, which has good winter hardiness and very high yield, so do not plant many bushes, especially on a small plot. A little - this is how much?

For a family of 3-4 people, only one bush is enough, because with good care an adult red currant bush can annually give up to 10-12 kg of berries. You just need to choose the right grade and place for planting. Gardeners prefer black currant. Usually they refer to the fact that the red currant is too acidic berries. This is true only for old varieties, such as, for example, the Dutch red. But in the last decade a lot of new sweet fruit varieties have been created, in berries of which sugar is found no less than in berries of black currant. It should be remembered that red currants are more useful than black currants, especially for people, for example, "at an age".

Features of growing

What does red currant like? Solar location, slightly acidic loam with a pH of 5-5.5, reinforced potassium doses. Since it has a fairly deep root system( sucking roots penetrate to a depth of 40 cm), planting holes should be made at least 60 cm deep. Before planting the pit, it is better to fill with organic and mineral water, since the bush can grow in one place up to 25 years. Of course, pre-planting fuel for this long period is not enough, bushes will have to be fed every year. Agronorm( N + P + K) y red currant is 31 grams per square meter per season, and the balance( N: P: K) is 39: 13: 48. It follows that it belongs to potassium lovers( plants belong to this groupif they have at least 45 in their balance sheet K).

What does not red currant? Grow in the shade or penumbra, on too acidic and dense soils, near groundwater, so if the depth of their bedding is 50-60 cm, red currants are planted on small hills. The distance between the bushes, if you plant more than one bush, should be at least 1.5-2 m, because they are quite large. The red currant is well adjacent to gooseberry, despite the fact that they have common pests, and does not like the neighborhood of the black currant. To all other plants in the garden, it is quite tolerable, first of all, because its root system occupies an intermediate position according to the depth of the suction roots - between the trees, in which the depth of the roots is lower, and those plants in which the root system is superficial. Therefore, before the red currant bushes on the southern side you can place strawberries, vegetables and greens with a shallow root system, onion annuals and perennial flowers.

Variety selection

Ancient variety I do not recommend planting the Dutch red, despite the fact that it is resistant to diseases and pests and gives an abundant harvest. He has small and very sour berries. Of the early varieties, the cultivar Chulkovskaya, which is not of great value, is quite common.

Variety Early sweet is of interest because of the high sugar content in berries and their early maturation. The berries in the brush are aligned in size, the bush is spreading, rather tall, the variety is yielding.

The firstborn( Finnish variety Erstling aus Firlanden) has high compact shrubs, large, sour-sweet berries, ripen early and can hang on a bush until September, without losing taste. The variety is high-yielding( up to 12 kg from the bush), resistant to anthracnose, frost-hardy.

Jonker Van Tete is a variety of foreign breeding. The bush is compact, strong, very productive. Long brushes of bright red berries are hidden by leaves, so they are almost not touched by birds. The variety is resistant to anthracnose.

It is good to have one of varieties on the plot - Versailles white or Versailles pink - with berries of excellent taste, which they lose, unfortunately, when overripe. Both varieties are good enough, but not too frost-hardy. Bushes spreading, brittle branches.

The red cross is a variety of foreign selection, frost-hardy, yielding, but quite strongly affected by anthracnose. His flowers are dark red, berries are light red, have a good dessert taste. Shrubs of medium size, spreading, brittle branches.

Fairy variety of fertile foreign breeding has spreading shrubs of medium size. The variety in certain years is affected by anthracnose. Branches are brittle. The yield is good, the berries are large, for a rather sour taste.

Generous - the variety is bred at the Pavlovsk Experimental Station near St. Petersburg. The harvest ripens in the mid-term. Shrubs of medium size, moderately spreading. The berries are light red, medium in size, have a sweet and sour taste. The variety is high-yielding. In certain years it can be strongly affected by anthracnose.

Yuterbogskaya - a foreign variety, has low spreading bushes. Berries are very light color, sweet and sour, tasty, can hang on the bushes until the frosts. The variety is high-yielding( up to 13 kg from the bush), frost-resistant, resistant to anthracnose.

Good variety Unnatural - frost-resistant, resistant to fungal diseases, yielding. Shrubs of medium size, semi-spreading. Berries are large, red, sweet and sour taste.

Variety Krasnaya Andreichenko has half-spread bushes of medium height, high yield, frost resistance and resistance to fungal diseases. Large berries of sweet and sour taste, red color.

Of late varieties, you can name only the Dutch red, Varcevic and Ronda. The most interesting of them is the last of the three varieties. A variety of foreign selection, high-yielding, frost-resistant, sufficiently resistant to anthracnose. Rond has a low, compact bush. The berries are large, red, pleasant sweet and sour taste.

Landing

Like all bushes, the red currant is planted early in the autumn, throughout September. Pits are digging in size 50 x 50 cm and, as already mentioned, 60 cm deep. At the bottom put chips, chopped branches, you can put the stems of raspberries. Interlay all the earth taken out from the pit, adding chalk or dolomite( half-liter jar) to the landing pit, Zet.spoons azofoski and additionally make 1 tbsp.spoon of potassium fertilizer that does not contain chlorine. Instead of chalk and dolomite, you can use ash( a liter pot per pit).

When the pit is filled to three-quarters of the height, the ground is rammed in it, the well-rotted compost is added, compacted, watered, the hill is made in the center of the pit and the roots of the seedling are spread on it. Before planting, as always, the seedling should be put in water for two hours so that it is well saturated with water. It is not bad to add "Kornevin" to the water, for the fastest formation of new roots. If there are dry or broken roots, then, naturally, they should be removed before planting.

The bush must necessarily be planted obliquely, so that the three lower buds on each stalk are buried in the soil, and only three kidneys are left above the ground. Above the top of them a straight cut is made on each stem. Then the planting of soil, which remained after the digging of the pit, falls asleep. If this land is too dense, then it is diluted with sand. After that, the seedling is watered so that the soil is well adhered to the roots, but in no case trample. If the roots are bare after irrigation, the soil is additionally poured, but no longer watered.

One can use one tablespoon of AVA instead of all other mineral fertilizers in planting pits and do not do mineral fertilizing for three years. The deoxidant, of course, must be introduced( it is best to use dolomite or chalk).The first two or three years there is a growth of the root system, and only then begins the rapid growth of the overground part of the bush. The exception is the Johncker-Van Tets variety, which grows rapidly, like black currant. In the planting year, in autumn, the bush is no longer cut and slightly hilled to a height of 10-12 cm. In the spring, the bush should be sure to unload and shorten all branches grown over the last summer by one quarter of their length.

In the future, the red currant does not hoe, neither to unburden, nor to shorten it. Growing shoots from the ground shorten the spring in a third of their length. After about five years, the bush should have about ten strong main branches of different ages. Excess shoots are cut to the level of the soil, leaving no hemp.

Plants of red currant, more vigorous and, growing, with age occupy a large enough area. Therefore, when planting the bushes should be placed at a distance of not less than 1.5 m from each other.

Red currant is traditionally placed along the boundaries of the site or along the tracks. But, given the attractiveness of red currant during the flowering and ripening of berries, it can be successfully planted in groups or together with ornamental bushes and perennial flowers.

Landing is best done in early autumn, late September - early October.

When preparing the soil, local cultivation of the soil in the planting pits is carried out. The size of the latter is 60 x 60 cm or more, depending on soil fertility. The upper fertile soil layer is mixed with fertilizers( 10-12 kg of humus or compost, 200 g of superphosphate and 200-300 g of wood ash).The seedlings are planted with deepening, after planting the soil around the young plants is compacted, watered and mulched. The above-ground part of the seedling is shortened to 3-4 kidneys.

Care, fertilizer

Although the red currant does not impose high demands on soil fertility, it is very responsive to the application of fertilizers. After all, its yields are 1.5-2 times higher than for black currants.

Red currant feels best on loose, fertile soils with a neutral reaction of the soil solution( pH 6-6.5).But to apply organic fertilizers it is less demanding than black currant, however it is very sensitive to chlorine. Therefore, under the red currant should not make potassium fertilizer in the form of potassium chloride. Preference should be given to potassium sulfuric acid or furnace ash. To liming the soil, too, must be approached with caution - on re-limed soils, plants suffer from chlorosis.

If planting pits were well seasoned with fertilizers before planting, the plants will have sufficient food for the first two to three years. Autumn embedding of such mulching materials as manure, peat, humus, compost, replenishes nutrient reserves and improves soil structure. Red currant is responsive to mulching. The soil is covered with mulch after the spring loosening by a layer of 10-15 cm.

If the soil is regularly mulched, one can confine oneself to mineral phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. They are usually brought under the autumn digging;If the application of these fertilizers is postponed until the spring, they will come to the roots due to poor mobility in the soil and will not be digested until the second half of the summer. On the contrary, nitrogen fertilizers are easily washed out by thawed and rainwater, and they are introduced usually in the spring and in the first half of summer in the form of fertilizing. Early in the spring red currant bushes are fed urea( 20-25 g per bush), during flowering - with a solution of Mullein( 1: 8-10) or bird droppings( 1: 15-20).During this period, foliar dressing with microelement solutions is also effective. Spraying red currant with a solution of boric acid, potassium permanganate, zinc sulphate, molybdenum-acid ammonium( 1.5-2 g per bucket of water) increases the binding and size of berries, which allows to increase the yield by 20-30%.

After harvesting, plants can be fed with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers( 40 g superphosphate, 20 g potassium sulfate or 100 grams of ashes per 10 liters of water).These macronutrients are necessary for the laying of fruit buds. Mineral fertilizers during this period can be replaced by liquid organic( 2 buckets per bush).

Red currant - a plant more durable than black. To ensure long planting has not lost productivity, starting from the fifth year it is necessary to make organic fertilizers, at least once in 2-3 years, 10-20 kg per bush.

On light sandy soils, organic fertilizer must be applied more often, preferably annually, and it is better to do this not in autumn, but in spring. The matter is that in sandy soils organic fertilizers are faster mineralized, and easily soluble mineral fertilizers are washed out before the beginning of vegetation in deeply lying layers and become inaccessible to plants. Due to the low moisture capacity of sandy soils under currants, high doses of mineral fertilizers can not be applied, since the concentration of soil solution greatly increases in drought, which can cause a delay in growth and even plant death. The introduction of organic fertilizers increases the cohesiveness of sandy soils and thereby improves their moisture capacity and limits the washing out of soluble fertilizers.

When growing red currant on light soils, especially in drought, it is better to apply mineral fertilizers in the form of a solution. Liquid fertilizers and slurry are more quickly absorbed. To make liquid top dressing is best in the ring grooves around the plants. If the soil is dry, then after dressing, the currant is watered( 2-3 buckets per bush), the grooves are covered with soil, the soil is loosened and mulched. The width of the fertilizer strip should correspond to the width of the crown. The solution must soak up the entire zone of occurrence of horizontal roots and penetrate to a depth of at least 40 cm. Near the center of fertilizers are less. As the currant overgrows, the area of ​​the bands increases.

Red currant reacts positively to timely watering during the dry season, especially during the formation and filling of the ovaries and after harvest.

Early berries are very attractive for birds. To protect the crop, various deterrents can be used.

Pruning and forming

The bush method is the main way of forming red currant in domestic gardening, which does not require special support devices.

Rejuvenating pruning of red currants: a - bush before trimming;b - after pruning

When planting the shoots are cut short, leaving not the surface 3-4 well-developed buds. Such pruning promotes the formation of strong lateral branches from the remaining kidneys and stimulates the formation of radical shoots from the kidneys on the buried part of the plant.

In the spring of next year, 3-4 successfully located strong root shoots are left. Weak and superfluous cut at the level of the soil. In varieties with a weak shoot-forming ability, shoots are shortened by 1/3 to 1/4 of the length.

In the following years, the bush continues to form as well, until 3-4 branches of each age form. The red currant has the most productive 3-5-year-old branches. At 6-8-year-old age they start rejuvenating pruning of the bush. In varieties with a weak run-off ability, old branches are cut to a strong lateral branch( most often it is a wolf shoot).In varieties with a good run-off ability, old branches are cut out completely. Annually it is necessary to remove 2-3 old branches.

Techniques for pruning the red currant( according to Kudryavtsu RP): 1 - cutting out entire branches on the ring -( a) incorrectly,( b) correctly;2 - pruning branches "for translation"( on a strong lateral branch) -( a) incorrectly,( b) correctly

In order to restore the productivity of the old bush, cut the entire above-ground part to the level of the soil, leaving no hemp. Of the shoots formed, the strongest ones are left and they form the bush as described above.

During a lifetime, the plant removes diseased, damaged, thickening and creeping shoots every year.

Other ways of forming

The red currant can be grown not only in the form of a bush. Its crown is easily displayed in the form of a pyramid, a spindle, a vase. Very decorative forms in the form of cordons, simple palmettes fan or tapestry types.

However, the most decorative red currant in the stamping culture. The crown is not only distinguished by its unusual appearance and attractiveness, but also influences the speed, yield and quality of the berries. Usually the shrub is formed on a short or a high stem.

In Europe, red currants are often grown on a short stem( 20-25 cm) with eight skeletal branches and an open center. The stab is formed at the first pruning. Planted in September-October of annual or biennial plants, the branches are shortened by half, cutting them onto the kidney turned outward. Such pruning strengthens the branches, ensures the growth of shoots of continuation in the desired direction and stimulates branching. Remove all growths on the stem, as well as radical shoots as they form.

Next fall, a year after planting, it is necessary to shorten half those annual increments that will become the main skeletal branches( up to 8 branches).They are also cut into a kidney turned outward. The other lateral shoots are cut short, leaving 5 cm of length, to stimulate the formation of fruit branches. All dead, sick and damaged branches are removed.

In July, when the berries begin to color and the current year's growth is formed, unnecessary lateral shoots are shortened to 10 cm to ensure access of light to berries;while the main conductors do not touch.

In the spring, we again need to shorten the conductors halfway to the kidney facing outwards. A lateral shoots, shortened in the summer to 10 cm, once again cut short, leaving only 2-3 cm in length.

The result should be a compact, well-lit crown with a large number of overgrown branches.

To obtain a high stem( 80-120 cm), the shrub is formed into one trunk and allows lateral shoots to develop until the stem is sufficiently thickened, after which all lateral shoots along the length of the stem are cut into a ring.

Further shaping of the crown at a given height is to remove too thick branches and shorten the lateral shoots to 1/3 of the length( 20-30 cm).Weak shoots do not shorten. For intensively growing shoots, a shorter pruning and pinching( prischipka) of newly growing branches is envisaged.

An excellent rootstock for a redcurrant shredded form is the goldencurrant seedlings. Golden-currant root-saplings( grown from cuttings) are rarely used for this purpose.

For vaccination choose a strong vertically located shoot, the rest cut out. Winter or spring inoculation of red currant on annual goldencurrant seedlings is carried out by means of improved copulation, into the butt or "into the side cut".Inoculations stratify and early in the spring, before the buds are spread out to privovo, plant grafted plants in the open ground, and bog down loose earth.

In the early years, about 5 of the strongest, healthy, evenly spaced branches of the red currant are left;shortened by 1/3 -1/2 lengths, on the kidney turned outward. Subsequently, each spring, the crown is thinned with the leaves of 4-5-year-old branches;the older ones delete. The diameter of the crown of the shredded bush reaches an average of 1.8 m.

During the growing season, it is necessary to cut out all the growths on the stem and shoots of renewal in the golden currant. This operation, unfortunately, has to be performed annually and more than once, since the golden currant yields shoots, and shoots of renewal are formed in a rather large amount. Joshta, a hybrid of currants and gooseberries, as a stamping agent is deprived of this shortcoming.

To make a high stiffener more rigid, it is necessary to tie it to the support peg. To the support is tied not only the stem, but also one of the powerful branches, preferably in the center of the crown. An even more reliable method is the installation of three support posts connected on top by slats in the form of a triangle. Stamp enough to tie to one of these posts, then it will not break under the weight of snow and in strong winds. Scheme of planting of plant plants 2.4 x 0.75 m;1.5 x 1 m.

When growing red currants on the stem, it must be borne in mind that the life expectancy of such plants is less than that of the bush forms. In addition, it must also be taken into account that inoculated varieties under our conditions should be sufficiently winter-hardy.

Due to the sprouting and strength of the branches and the durability of the fruit formations of the Johnker-van-tts, the Pervenets, the Dutch Red are well suited for growing on the stem.

Red and white currants are very plastic, they can be formed not only on the stem, but also in the form of cordons and fans. The cordon is formed on a wire trellis;for the fan shape you need a wall or a fence.

Cordon( planting scheme 2.3 x 0.5 m)

Immediately after planting the redcurrant plant, it is necessary to shorten the central conductor by half, tie it to a vertical support, and trim the side branches to 2-3 cm to stimulate the formation of fruit branches.

In summer, the central conductor is constantly tied to the support, but not cut off. The lateral shoots are shortened to 3-5 leaves( 10 cm).Such shortening of shoots can not be carried out earlier than in the beginning of July, since in this case the formation of shoots of the second order of branching is enhanced.

Forming red currant on trellis

For the second year in spring, the conductor is cut to the kidney opposite to last year's pruning, leaving 15 cm of new growth;all lateral shorten to 2-3 cm in the summer of the same year again form a vertical conductor, constantly tying it to a vertical support, and shorten lateral shoots to 3-5 leaves( 10 cm).

These operations are repeated in this order until the central conductor of the vertical cordon is raised to a height of 1.5-1.8 m. A more or less straight zigzag central conductor is obtained.

On an adult vertical cordon, each year in spring, a continuation shoot on the conductor is cut to the first kidney, and lateral growths to 2-3 cm in length. In July - another pruning: all new increments on the conductor and lateral branches are shortened by 3-5 leaves( up to 10 cm).

Modification of this method is a complex cordon or a trellis with branches evenly located on the central conductor. Each branch is tied to a wire trellis and formed as a horizontal cordon.

The currant plant is formed almost the same way as the apple tree. To get this form, you need to choose an annual plant with three powerful branches. Best of all, if one of them is located vertically( central conductor), and two others at a height of 30 cm from the soil level - opposite( lower tier).In the following years, two opposite branches are left on the central conductor, located above the lower tier, the rest is shortened to 2-3 cm. As a result, a plant up to 1.5 m in height is formed with 4 tiers of horizontal branches, each up to a meter in length. When the plant is formed, each branch is cut off as a normal cordon.

Fan shape of red currant

For fan shape the wall or fence is best suited. The basis for the formation of such plantations is the cutting and shortening of the branches growing in the direction of row spacing, the width of which, when planted, is reduced to 1.5 m. The distance between the plants is from 1.5 to 0.75 m, depending on the number of branches in the fan( 2,3,4).The necessary number of branches is tied to the support by a fan. The rest are cut off as in the case of cluster formation.

The highest yield is obtained from a unit area using the "fan with three branches" system. Low yield - the system "bush on the stem without tie to the support."The traditional shrub form is characterized by average indicators of yield and quality of berries.

When growing plants formed on the trellis, harvesting is easier, the berries are large, aligned, beautiful in color and of high quality, but a fruit burn is possible.

Fan systems are very decorative, they can be used for hedges.

Interesting

Top dressing and care

In red currant after the bush is formed, never cut the tops of branches. After all, it is at the ends of branches that, unlike black branches, there is not one but a whole bouquet of fruit twigs-fruit, giving the main crop of berries. Fruits in red currants live much longer than in black currants, up to 8-10 years. After that they die and they do not give a crop. Such an obsolete branch must be cut at the root, and the next year a substitution shoot will start from the ground.

If the main fruit-bearing branches have an annual growth of only 5-7 cm, and the pads grow well, then such branches can be left. But if the growth is small and the fruit does not grow, then such a branch should be completely removed in order to trigger a replacement run.

The red currant blossoms in parts and quickly, so it usually manages to tie and even grow the ovary to the age that they already tolerate freezing to -7 degrees, so it's not afraid of late spring frosts.(The least hardy for all plants are flowers and young ovaries.) Therefore, red currant produces high, stable, annual yields. Unlike the black currant, the red berry can hang for a long time on the bushes, without crumbling or losing taste. The exception is white currant varieties, in which overripe berries lose their taste. Red currant is a long-liver. It grows and fructifies 20-25 years in one place. And the old bush can still be rejuvenated, gradually for three steps cutting out of it a third of the branches to the soil itself.

Every year after fruiting, a complex mineral fertilizer( at least 3 tablespoons) should be applied to each bush. If AVA is used, then it is made once every three years for 1 tbsp.a spoonful of granules under the bush. All fertilizers should be applied dry, along the perimeter of the crown of the bush, and be embedded in the top layer of the soil. Every year the soil must be deoxidized, for which use dolomitic milk( 1 glass of dolomite per 10 liters of water), which should be watered bush around the perimeter of the crown at the end of summer. If instead of mineral fertilizers you use ash( half a liter pot under the plant), then dolomite can not be made. In addition, the currant requires organic. In the late autumn, under each bush, it is necessary to deposit a bucket of repaired manure or compost.

In additional watering this currant does not need, except for a short period in June, if dry weather is, and in October, again if the fall for a long time there was no good rain. Watering should be abundant - at least 3-5 buckets under the bush. First you need to lightly moisten the soil along the perimeter of the crown, then add the rest of the water, then the moisture will soak into the soil, and not roll off it no one knows where. Watering and spraying bushes should be done in the evening in dry weather.

On the note

To grow a red currant, not in the form of a bush, but in the form of a tree - a die-shaped form, the seedling is planted in autumn, as usual, but not obliquely, but vertically. Then there will be no root shoots, and those that can later appear should be cut out according to the soil level. The next spring, the stem is shortened to just one kidney. To form a stem, the lower 4-5 kidneys are plucked. If in the future on the stem will appear twigs, then they should be deleted. Then, when the twigs from the two upper buds develop, in the spring they are plucked or cut off the upper kidney. Approximately in 5 years you have a small, elegant tree. It will bear fruit about 8-10 years, then the fruit will die and the fruiting will stop. We'll have to cut the only stem to the level of the soil in order to trigger a replacement run, and repeat everything first. Of course, the currant in the form of a stem yields a very small crop, since it is only one branch, and in a common bush there may be up to ten or more. The current that the currant in the form of a stalk is just an elegant toy.

Pests and Diseases

Red currant is resistant to powdery mildew and viral diseases. Sometimes it is affected by columnar or goblet rust and at the end of summer - angrachnosis, which causes reddening, then blackening, twisting and falling off of its leaves. Against these diseases, you can use 1% Bordeaux mixture, better use the biopreparation "Phytosporin" or "Zircon".

The most malignant pests are red-throat aphids, causing red swellings on leaves in early spring, and the caterpillar of gooseberry fire, eating leaves mainly in July. Against these pests, it is best to use the biologic "Fitoverm" or "Iskra-bio".Against the red-head aphids can be done by spraying with drinking or soda ash( 3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water), but it is necessary to moisten the underside of the leaves, according to which the aphids crawl. At aphids, as is known, very gentle covers. Creeping over the soda, it burns the abdomen and dies. No wetting drugs, like "Intavira", do not work on aphids, since aphids penetrate inside the leaf plate, and feed there. Therefore, an absorbable preparation is needed against sucking pests. The safest to date is "Fitoverm"( Iskra-Bio or Agravertin).

Caterpillars of gooseberry fire are the easiest to collect and destroy. But there is an ancient folk way about which I already told when I wrote about the black currant. In late May and early June, a shovel of fresh manure should be thrown into the center of the bush. It has long been noted that pests, even aphids, do not touch such a bush.

A small branchy shrub with a grayish bark. Leaves cordate, serrate, from below hairy. Flowers are greenish-white, collected in a drooping brush. The berries are spherical, red, sweet and sour. Blooms in May, fructifies in July. Spring honey plant.

Widespread in the wild from the Urals to Lake Baikal, Siberia and the Far East. It grows in moist forests, along the banks of rivers and marshes. Cultivated as a horticultural fruit garden.

medicinal properties of red currant

Medicinal raw materials are fruits. Fruits contain a small amount of ascorbic acid, carotene, flavonoids, thiamine, riboflavin, nicotinic, malic, succinic and citric acids, sugars, pectin substances.

In folk medicine, fruits and juice use to lower fever temperature, regulate intestinal peristalsis and as a mild laxative. Redcurrant juice increases the secretion of sweat and urine and improves appetite. It also has a slight laxative, slightly choleretic, anti-inflammatory and hemostatic effect.

Application of

Infusion: 3 tbsp. Spoon berries pour a glass of boiling water, insist 4 hours, filter and take a quarter cup for 30 minutes before meals 3-4 times a day. Berries are suitable for preparing a vitamin extract.

Jelly from a mixture of red currants and raspberries

4 l of redcurrant juice, 1 l of raspberry juice, 7.5 kg of sugar.

Squeeze out the juices. Sugar with constant stirring add until the juice thickens and turns into jelly( usually sugar has to take 1.5 kg per 1 liter of juice).To spread out on sterile cans. Close. Store in a cool place.

Note. Jelly from the mixture of red currant with raspberries gets the taste and aroma of raspberries, and this, you will agree, is much tastier. Red currant is a natural preservative, like blueberries and bell peppers or horseradish. Using jelly from red currants, you can turn any herring to taste into a delicious herring in wine.

Dressing for herring

Herring peel, remove the bones, remove the skin, cut into pieces. Prepare a dressing from water, vegetable oil and red currant jelly in a ratio of 1: 1: 1.Pour the pieces of herring with a dressing for at least 3-4 hours.

Any, the cheapest, herring will acquire the taste of exquisite herring in wine sauce.

Lemonade from red or white currant

1 glass of currant berries, 3-4 st.spoons of granulated sugar, 1/2 lemon peel, 1/2 lemon juice mixed and ground with a wooden pestle, add 1 boiled cold water, allow to stand for 7-10 minutes, filter and drink.

The red currant is also called the "Ivanova Berry" - it ripens, for the most part, exactly to Ivanov's day( June 24).And they call her "porechkoy" - in the wild it grows along the banks of forest nameless rivers. Cultivate the red currant steel from the XV-XVI centuries, so that the healing properties of this berry are known for a long time.

In the harvest year, the red shiny bunches of berries, like a rich fringe, hang from every branch, from afar they beckon to people and birds. And, on the branches of ripe berries hang for a long time, do not crumble, as if waiting, when the hands of the landlady will reach them. And the housewives are happy to cook jam from it, make juices, compotes, jellies.

The fruits of this plant store a rich set of nutrients: sugars, organic acids - citric, apple, salicylic, amber. They contain many vitamins: B1, P, E, K, B12, PP, carotene. The content of vitamin C red currant is much inferior to black, but it has a lot of coumarins, which lower the coagulability of blood, contribute to the prevention of heart attacks. It is richer than black currant in the content of pectins, mineral elements such as potassium, calcium, sodium, magnesium, phosphorus, iron.

Amber and malic acids, which are saturated with red currant berries, are very strong energy-giving compounds. Therefore, berries are very effective in treatment in old age, with overwork. They are necessary for athletes to maintain a tonus and quick recovery at high loads. Red currant berries well regulate metabolism, promote the removal of cholesterol from the body, so they are useful for eating with atherosclerosis.

Red currant - a wonderful adsorbent of intestinal toxins, improves appetite, strengthens the activity of the stomach and intestines. It is used to eliminate nausea in all kinds of ailments.

Redcurrant juice is drunk with spastic colitis and enterocolitis. It quenches thirst, reduces the fever, especially in children, has an anti-inflammatory and diaphoretic effect.

Red currant tea helps remove purines and uric acid, so it is very useful for patients with gout, rheumatism and urolithiasis.

♦ For colds: take equal amounts of fresh juice of red currant, cranberries and black currant. Take a quarter cup with the addition of a teaspoon of honey 4 times a day.

♦ To stimulate appetite: take red currant berries, 3 parts of herb wormwood and 1 part of yarrow herb. A tablespoon of herbal mixture pour a glass of boiling water, insist 30 minutes, drain. In the infusion, add the juice, squeezed from 2 tablespoons of red currant berries. Take half a cup for 15-20 minutes before eating.

♦ For urolithiasis: take 2 parts of red currant leaves, anise fruits, sheep's grass, 3 pieces of common juniper fruit, bearberry leaves, root of field harness, dandelion root, 4 parts of parsley grass. A tablespoon of mixture to pour a glass of water, boil for 10 minutes, insist 30 minutes. Take equal portions in a warm form 2-3 times a day.

♦ With urolithiasis: take 2 parts of red currant leaves, peppermint leaves, black elder flowers, 3 parts of rhizome of marsh, horsetail grass, juniper fruit, 4 parts of nettle leaves. A tablespoon of mixture to pour a glass of water, boil for 10 minutes, insist 30 minutes. Take in warm form for half-a-quarter glass 2 times a day.