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  • Vegetative reproduction of actinidia

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    Actinidia is propagated by cuttings and cuttings, as well as in isolated tissue culture in test tubes. The most simple and accessible is the multiplication of actinidia with summer stem cuttings, i.e."Green cuttings".Shoots cut semi-mature, which began to bore. They are cut from the vines and immediately immersed by the cut off part of the shoot into the water. Then it is cut into cuttings with 3 buds. The oblique cut is made under the lower kidney, and above the top - straight, above it by 4-5 cm. Cuttings are planted obliquely, so that the middle kidney is at the level of the surface of the sand or slightly buried. On the cuttings, leaves from the lower two kidneys wilt. For rooting use cold greenhouses, filled with soddy soil in a mixture with humus and river sand. A layer of pure river sand in 3-4 cm is poured on top. Building sand can not be used, becauseit contains lime and is not suitable for actinidia. Lime depresses the growth and development of both young and adult lianas.

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    Cuttings planted obliquely, about 45 °, watered and covered from above with a covering material or gauze. They are pulled on the posts so that the fabric does not touch the leaves. Regularly watering and weeding. The optimum air temperature for rooting is 25 ° C, then in 20-25 days, up to 70-80% of the cuttings can become entrenched. They are left in the hotbeds for the winter, covered with a layer of dry fallen leaves for 10-15 cm and spruce lapnika. In the spring they are opened and transplanted to grow on the ridges or to a permanent place in the garden. For better survival, cuttings before planting are kept in the solution of the stimulant. The most suitable for actinidia is the growth factor IMC-indolyl-butyric acid. At present, the action of other new stimulants is also being studied. Actinidia is very important to cut off shoots on time. For Moscow suburbs the best time for cutting and rooting of stem cuttings is in June, before and during flowering. Moreover, it is always necessary to follow and mark, with which vines are taken cuttings - male or female. They completely repeat the sex and other signs of the maternal creeper.

    It is possible to propagate actinidia by rooting a young shoot. For this, in winter, a one-year-old shoot is cut off. Put it in water at room temperature. In 1 month the kidneys start growing. When they reach a length of 5 cm, it is cut with a thin layer of last year's wood. Rooted in boxes filled with a mixture of soddy soil with humus and on top of a layer of clean sand.

    In some cases, when there are many uterine actinidia plants, they are also propagated by winter wood cuttings, using the kilts. Cuttings cut in winter are kept in bundles, in wet sawdust. The length of the cuttings is about 20 cm. One month before planting in spring, bundles of cuttings are put in a pit with ice. The ice is laid on the bottom of the pit, then the cuttings are placed on top of the pit with their upper ends down, on the ice. Then fill with a dense layer of sawdust, compact them, leaving 3-5 cm of the lower ends of the cuttings free. They are poured a loose layer of moist humus earth and a layer of overgrown manure from above. All this is covered with straw mats and snow. Thus, cold conditions are created for the morphologically upper parts of the cuttings and then the beginning of the budding of the kidneys is delayed. At the same time, the lower ends of the cuttings, where the roots are to be formed, are morphologically warm. Because of this temperature drop, as well as the polarity violation in the cuttings, a callus and roots are formed in a month. In the open ground in spring, cuttings are planted with root rudiments. The buds of the upper part of the cuttings at this time are still at rest. Thus, under such conditions, the root system outstrips the overground part, and the buds slowly awaken. Without killing, the wood cuttings took root by 10%, and with kileclation up to 70%.By the autumn all the seedlings have managed to finish growing and overwinter. It is noticed that in the future they grow more slowly than seedlings.

    Planting and care. Accommodation in the garden

    Very important is the choice of a place for planting lianas in the garden. Actinidia is an almost irremovable culture.grows and fructifies more than 50 years in one place. The site is usually planted with vines where they can be supported for them, along the perimeter, to the edges of the garden plot. Lianas create a living green wall, separating the garden from neighboring sites, in addition, favorably affect the microclimate. Lianas are planted around arbours, at the porch or the entrance to the site. They twist the verandas of the cottages, climb high on the roof or on stairs, trellises and pergolas. In this case, the lianas should be planted near the house, retreating at least 1.5 m, so that rain drops do not fall on their roots. Especially decorative during flowering actinidium colomict. She is characterized by variegation, especially male plant specimens. The variegated liana, winding along a coniferous tree, gives the impression that snow has fallen out of the winter. Such unusual combinations of color give the whole area an unusual elegance.

    The best predecessor and neighbor for actinidia are the black currant bushes. Experiments have shown that for the actinidia, the neighborhood with the apple tree is very unfavorable. You can not plant actinidia under the apple tree or on the place where it grew. Lianas need to take their own place in the garden and not plant under the trees. The danger is that any fruit tree dug in the trunks. Actinidia root system is superficial and it is impossible to dig the soil under them. In addition, tall trees absorb a lot of moisture from the soil, drain it. The desiccation of the soil does not tolerate actinidia lianas. They need wet loose soil around the base, at the root neck. Collecting fruits from high lianas is also inconvenient.

    Soils, fertilizers

    For actinidia, a variety of soils are suitable, except for clayey swim, with a close standing of groundwater. The main requirement is a good natural drainage of the soil. Have a landing on the slopes, where there is a flow of water and on elevated plots. Plants do not tolerate water stagnation in the root zone. Favorable soil, rich in organic fertilizers, weakly acidic, acidic, pH = 4-5.Under actinidia, lime and chlorine-containing fertilizers can not be added. The roots of actinidia are close to the surface and are usually under a loose forest litter, where moisture is retained for a long time. For the same reason, actinidia are not treated with pesticides and herbicides, so that they can not penetrate to nearby roots.

    Fertilizers are very finely ground in the soil near the vines. Weeding is carried out carefully, with shallow loosening of the soil. Fertilizers are made depending on the age and growth of the lianas. On average, 25 g of simple or 10 g of double superphosphate, 22 g of ammonium sulfate or 13 g of ammonium nitrate, 8 g of potassium fertilizers are applied per 1 m2 of young plantings. Instead of the latter, wood ash can be added. Liming of soil and chlorine-containing fertilizers is completely excluded.

    Landing in a permanent place

    Plant and transplant actinidia at the age of no more than 4 years, later they do not take root. Spring planting is preferred. Pruning plants before planting does not produce.

    Pits or trenches with a depth of 40-50 cm are dug for planting. Stones, pebbles or coal slag are laid to the bottom for drainage. The pit is filled with loose fertile soil mixed with humus and mineral fertilizers at the rate of 10 kg( bucket) of humus, 200 g of superphosphate and ammonium nitrate and 100-150 g of wood ash. Seedling is planted on a mound of fertile soil mixed with fertilizers. Saplings before planting should be with a closed root system, with a clod of moist soil. Open the roots only when you land. Plants take root thanks to small roots, and 5 minutes are enough to kill them from air drying. Seedling after planting in the hole on the mound watered abundantly at the rate of 2-3 buckets of water. After planting and watering the soil around the seedling is mulched with humus or dry soil.

    When planting the root collar is not buried. In the future, the soil around the seedling becomes denser, its sedimentation occurs. As a result, the root neck remains at ground level. Thus, no depressions are formed around the seedling, and water does not stagnate in autumn and spring.

    In the first year after planting in the spring during the summer the soil is finely loosened, the weed grass is removed. In dry, hot weather, the seedlings water and mulch the soil to preserve moisture. For actinidia it is necessary to keep moisture not only in the root zone. Lianas love sprinkling, when they are sprayed in the morning and evening.

    In spring planting, regular watering of seedlings from a watering can or a hose with a diffuser is necessary to form airborne moisture.

    The green mass of leaves and shoots is rapidly growing in lianas, a lot of water evaporates.

    The lightness of the lianas also matters. They need partial shade to avoid sunshine or thick shade.

    At the beginning of the sap flow in the spring, a small cut on the branches or stalk of lianas can damage it. Excision of actinidia in spring and pre-spring time is excluded. Lianas can be dried up and lost due to "crying".

    Young seedlings and rooted cuttings also need constant watering and spraying.

    They should all be lightly shaded all the time. Moisture for lianas is one of their main needs. In localities with dry winds, lianas are planted under the protection of forest belts, or on a site sheltered from prevailing winds. Near the houses, creepers find a suitable microclimate for moisture, water reserves in the soil. Usually on plots a lot of snow accumulates in winter, which also contributes to the supply of lianas with water in the spring.

    Actinidia refer to the crocheting support of lianas, they need support in the form of trellises, ladders, pergolas. In commercial plantations of kiwi, various supports are used, incl. T-shaped. For our actinidia in a temperate climate, trellises up to 2.5 m in height are suitable. It is fastened with a thick, durable wire in 3 rows: the lower one at a height of 0.5 m, then 1.0 m and 1.5 m. A wooden crossbar is made at the top. On the trellis, the young plants are tied first to the lower wire. As the growth of lianas shoots tied, having a fan on the trellis. For the winter shoots from the trellis are not removed, only cover the fallen foliage roots. In subsequent years, actinidia grow without shelter. In spring, when late-spring frosts come, shoots are damaged in lianas. Then there is a regrowth and shoots are restored from sleeping buds.

    Practice shows that actinidia in Russian gardens can grow and bear fruit in all areas of horticulture. This new garden culture is environmentally friendly, i.e.no special chemical treatments are required during cultivation. However, in natural habitats, diseases and pests are found on wild actinidia. When introducing into culture it is necessary to know about them and to prevent them from growing lianas in the garden.