Pruning of grapes in autumn

Pruning is an operation that removes or shortens annual shoots and, if necessary, old branches, if necessary.

General rules. For fructification in normally developed bushes leave well-ripened annual vines with a diameter in the middle part of 6-12 mm, located on two-year-old wood.

Wounds on the sleeves should be located on one side, usually with the inside. For this, the knots of substitution are left outside from the middle of the bush and below each fruiting arrow. Adjacent and opposite wounds disrupt the sap flow, the plant is depleted and may die.

Annual shoots, as well as perennial parts, are cut at the base, leaving pads about 0.3-0.5 cm. "Licked" sections lead to rapid and deep tissue withering. Leaving larger hemp is also harmful.

Rules for placement of wounds on the sleeves and formation of fruit links by years;figures indicate the age of the vines

Removal of an annual shoot from the sleeve: along the line AB - correctly;along the AB line - incorrect

Shortening of annual vines: a - correct;b - wrong;c - section through the

node. When removing perennial branches, the cut must be made perpendicular to the axis to reduce the wound area.

When the annual vines are shortened, the cut is made through the interstice 1.5-2 cm above the upper eye. The cut must be oblique and directed to the opposite side from the eye( the eyelet is protected from flooding with juice when it is sap flowing).In the areas where the vineyards are damaged by the dots, they cut it through a knot with a mustache, above the diaphragm.

With the annual pruning remove the otplodonosivshuyu arrow and create a new fruit link from the shoots that developed on the knot replacement last year. It is undesirable to leave a branch from an escape that has developed on the arthropod, as this violates the rules of pruning and leads to a rapid elongation of the sleeves.

If two fruit shoots are formed on the horn( reinforced fruit link), the lower one is cut to 2-3 eyes shorter than the upper one.

When rejuvenating sleeves, you should not choose for this shoots located between the two wounds, since the newly formed sleeve will quickly wither away.

When replacing an aging or damaged hose, use a sprout or wolf shoot, developed at its base, which is cut to the length of the future sleeve.

Removal of one-year shoot from the sleeve: on the AB line - correct;on the line AB - incorrectly

To reduce the length of the sleeve, it is necessary to cut a well-placed shoot on the knot, if it is not there, apply injections in the right place with a pruner to cause the development of sleeping buds, or cut off the sleeve 5-6 cm from the head of the bush. After this pruning, several shoots will develop, which in the future can be used to optimize the structure of the bush.

Procedure for cutting. Starting pruning, take into account the peculiarities of the grape varieties cultivated on the site, then assess the general condition of the bush, check the sleeves, fruit vines, knots of substitution, specify the most advantageous variant of the formation. On the shapeless formations, pruning is facilitated if the vines and sleeves are previously released from the garter.

Pruning of bushes begins with the removal of all unnecessary shoots and sleeves( broken, dry, etc.) on the head of the bush, stem, cordon, regardless of the type of formation. The old sleeve, which gave a slight increase in annual shoots, is whipped. To replace it, choose a strong and well-located shoot, coppice or wolf, which is cut to 80-100 cm on the shteless formations, the weaker shoots shorten more strongly.

The principle of replacing a bare shoulder cordon or an extended arm

The next step is to work with each sleeve to form on them the fruit links. It is not always an ideal option when, removing the arthropod, it is possible to form a new fruit link from the two shoots that formed on the replacement knot of last year. Consider the situations that may occur when pruning, for example, the knots of substitution:

a) there was only one good escape on the replacement knot, last year's shooter had many good shoots. Escape, developed on a knot of substitution, cut off on 3-4 eyes on a branch, and on fruiting leave one or two well-developed shoots, developed on last year's arrow;

Various options for trimming the fruit link. The dashes indicate the location of the trimming: 1 - sleeve;2 - knot;3 - arrow fruiting

b) one good escape has developed on the replacement knot, and on the last year's fruit arrow all the weak, badly ripened. Escape from the replacement knot is cut off on the fruiting arrow, but shorter, and last year's arrow is removed;

c) on the knot replacement did not develop shoots or it was not left. In this case, the fruit vine and the knot of substitution are formed from shoots that developed on last year's fruit shoot;

d) there were no shoots on the replacement knot, and only one good shoot on the arrow. This shoot is left on the arrow and bent in the form of an arc for the development of two, located at the base of the arrow of the eyes, which will give shoots for trimming next year. To bend the arrow quickly and not to break, it is necessary to substitute the index finger of the left hand in the bend, making it a fulcrum, then with your right hand grab the end of the shoot, bend and tie.

In cases where there are no shoots for replacing the sleeve or forming a knot of substitution, a transverse incision of the bark is made in the right place. This contributes to the development of necessary shoots from sleeping buds.

Cutting time. With unrivorous grapes culture, pruning of the bush begins 2-3 weeks after the fall leaf and is carried out during the winter period, with the exception of frosty days( temperature below 3-5 ° C).It should be borne in mind that uncircumcised shrubs are more resistant to low temperatures than cropped ones, that's why the more frost-resistant varieties are cut first - Isabella, Lydia, Magarach's Gift, December and others. Grades medium-resistant to frost cut later, when the danger of severe frosts passes. Varieties with low frost resistance( Queen of vineyards, Karaburnu, Crimean pearl, Tavria, etc.), as well as placed on more open and less secure places are cut off last.

With covering culture of the grapes, it is advisable to perform pruning in two steps: beforehand( in the autumn before hiding the bushes) and finally( after opening the bushes and before the opening of the eyes).Pre-pruning is to "lighten" the bush, that is, away from the head of the bush and the sleeves of underdeveloped, poorly matured shoots, partial shortening of normally developed shoots, which facilitates shelter and reduces the amount of work in the spring. In spring, pruning is carried out taking into account the freezing of the kidneys, the final load of the bushes is established with the eyes. Considering that frosts occur early in areas of sheltered viticulture, do not expect a fall leaf in the fall pruning. If the time for hiding the bushes has come and there is a threat of a frosty period, the vine can be harvested with leaves. At the same time, remove all obviously unnecessary parts - the unripened vine and its parts, underdeveloped shoots, stepchildren and tendrils, shorten the vine that has been fertilized, so that there remains a large supply of eyes.

Regardless of the region, spring pruning is considered to be the best, as eye eyes are more conserved and they later bloom, which is important for areas with frequent late frost frosts.

In the spring, first of all, varieties are cut, whose eyes are slowly bloomed( Senso, Karaburnu, Rkatsiteli), later - varieties with early blossoming eyes( Shasla, Aligote, Pearl Saba).If there are few shrubs on the site, it is better to cut off all varieties in later periods, closer to the phase of sap movement, which leads to a delay in the opening of the eyes for 7-10 days. In the fall, early varieties of early ripening and more frost-resistant are the first to be cut, the latter being late-grade varieties and less frost-resistant.

Trimming technique. For pruning use a pruner and a grape file, which must be well ground. When working, the pruner is held so that the knife is on the side of the left part of the vine, and the stop is on the side of the vine to be removed. This makes it possible to obtain smooth sections.

When cutting sleeves and other perennial parts of a bush, the part to be removed is tilted with the left hand in the direction opposite to the cutter blade, which greatly facilitates the work. You should not squeeze the secateur with two hands, as do inexperienced cutters. If the removed sleeve is thick, then it is cut in several steps by sliding movements.

Perennial parts of the bush with a thickness of more than 3 cm are cut with a grape file, pressing it while moving toward you. The cut must be smoothed with a garden knife or a secate blade. If it is necessary to cut the stem below the soil level, then make a well around the stem with a diameter of at least 50 cm to obtain a perpendicular cut.

Trimming length - the number of eyes left after pruning on a one-year shoot. It depends on the variety, the conditions of growth and the formation of the bush. Short pruning( 1-4 eyes) is carried out more often on the shank cordon formations, medium( 5-8 eyes) - on shtambam formulations, on varieties with high fruitiness of the eyes( Early Magaracha, Aligote, Delight, Pearl Saba, Pearl of the Hall, etc.).;long( 9-12 eyes and more) - on barless formulations on high-growth table varieties, as well as on varieties with poor fruitiness of the lower eyes( Caraburnu, Italy, Rkatsiteli, Taifi white, Nimrang, etc.).

For vulture varieties or shrubs, pruning should be longer than for seniors. Long pruning is carried out in areas of cover crops and in irrigated vineyards, provided with good nutrition.

Short pruning in many varieties leads to a decrease in yield, but guarantees the improvement of the quality of grapes, enhances the growth of shoots and improves their maturation.

A certain guideline for establishing the length of the trimming is the leaving on the vine as many eyes, the thickness of the vine at the base between the third and fourth internodes( measured by a caliper by the smallest diameter of the vine).If part of the eye is damaged, then the length of the trimming is increased.

An exception to this rule is trimming knots, pruning young and old shrubs that require shorter trimming.

Load of bushes. The task of the vine-grower is to bring up a greater number of normally developed fruit-bearing shoots on the bush( for shoots of not too large size - shoots of at least 100 cm in length and in the middle part of 6-10 mm, medium and strong - 120-150 cm, respectively6-12 mm).

The more developed bushes, the more they are loaded. The load is determined by the number of eyes left on the bush. However, the normalization of the eyes is an approximate approach. The final load is specified at the wreckage( unnecessary green shoots and inflorescences are removed).

Strong, but low-fruit varieties( Karaburnu, Chaush, Tavriz) leave a load more than medium- and slaboroslym, but high-fruit( Shasla, Pearl Saba, Violet early).On fertile and well-endowed soils, the load of the same variety should be greater than on soils of infertile and not sufficiently moistened soils.

With a rare planting, the load of each individual bush is set higher than when it is thick. On large formations, the load should be higher than on low-volume ones.

At autumn pruning leave an insurance stock of eyes( 20-30%), depending on the conditions of the winter period of the area.

The mistake of many wine growers-lovers is the overload of bushes by harvest. Its consequences are a weak growth of shoots and their weak maturing, the melting of bunches and berries, poor sugar accumulation, belated ripening of the crop.

Undesirable and underload. Its signs: low productivity, the emergence of strong stepsons and livers from the base of the bush.

If the growth of the bush is powerful and there are live shoots on the bush, the load on the eyes and shoots is increased by 25-30% on the average. In the absence of fattening shoots and the average growth of the bush, the load is given in the volume of the previous year. If the gain is below the average and some shoots are thinner and weaker than usual, then the load is reduced against last year's.

In large-grained varieties, 2-3 fruitless shooters leave one fruit-bearing shoot, and in high-yielding plants with medium bunch it is possible to do without sterile shoots.

It is impossible to give exact recommendations on the load of bushes, as the variety and even each bush in specific conditions require an individual approach. The lover should practically, by means of annual accounting and observation, experimentally develop for themselves differentiated norms of the load.

For guidance, the following recommendations can be cited.

On young bushes in the first year of vegetation, you can leave( during the formation of the stem) 1-3 shoots, in the second year - 6-8.Under good conditions and use for planting powerful seedlings with two knots left for 2-3 shoots in the first year on the bushes it is possible to grow 4-6 shoots, in the second year -15-18 shoots, leaving 2 pruns and 2 hands for the length of future shootssleeves. In the same year, you can already get a crop within 2-3 kg. Such bushes should be given maximum attention, providing them with food and water.

In the spring of the third year of life on the bushes, you can leave a load equal to 50%, and for the fourth year - 75% of the load, set on fruit-bearing bushes. On three-year-old bushes, providing food and water for high-growth varieties, you can leave 20-25 shoots per bush, on medium-sized and on non-irrigated plots - no more than 12-15, for four-year-olds, respectively, 25-35 and 20-30 shoots per bush.

On fruiting bushes in fan formations in the Krasnodar region under a 2.5 x 1.5 m planting scheme, it is recommended that: on medium-sized table varieties( Shasla, Senso, Cardinal, Pearl Saba, Muscat Kuban, Queen of vineyards) leave 20-25 shoots;vigorous( Italy, Karaburbu, Victory, Muscat Hamburg) - 25-35;technical( Aligote, Rkatsiteli) - 35-40;varieties prone to overload( Gift of Magarach, Saperavi North, Purple early) - 25-30;high-fruited( Nimrang, Taifi pink, Risamat, etc.) with pied-shaped forms - up to 30 shoots per 1 m2 of trellis.

Forms of vine bushes and their excretion

If the grape plant is left without pruning, it will take the form of a climbing plant. The fruits are small, not tasty, the yield is low.

With proper pruning and shaping, you can make the vine grow evenly and yield a good harvest. In this case, the size of the bush, its shape, as well as the fruiting, primarily depend on pruning, and the method of forming shrubs is selected depending on the soil-climatic conditions, the biological characteristics of the variety and the system of supports used.

DEVICE OF SUPPORT SYSTEM FOR GRAPE

The main types of supports used on private plots can be grouped into three types of trellis system: vertical trellis, pergolas, wall. It is advisable to equip the support system well in advance of the planting of the grapes or not later than the beginning of the second vegetation of the bushes.

Vertical trellis consists of anchor and intermediate posts connected by wire in one or several tiers. With this system, all parts of the bush are guided along a wire located in a vertical or inclined plane.

The most common vertical trellis. For its installation, at both ends of the series, edge poles of about 2 m in length and 10-12 cm thick are dug to a depth of 50-60 cm. Between them, every 5-6 m, intermediate poles of the same length are installed, but with a smaller diameter( about8 cm).

To impart strength to the edge posts, use an anchor, spacer or simply bury the edge column in a position inclined from the row to a greater depth. Then galvanized wire of 2-3 mm thickness is attached to these poles in one or several tiers. To the extreme posts, the wire is fixed firmly, and to the intermediate ones it is free - staples, hooks or simply pieces of wire, so that it can be freely moved along the row and pulled up by sagging.

For conventional fan formations, the first layer is stretched at a height of 35-40 cm from the soil surface, the next - every 40-50 cm.

If a long arm is used, then the first wire is pulled at a height of 15-20 cm to create a bend at the hosesthe first or second year of planting) and the next year it is raised to the uppermost level. Instead, the bend can be created by pinching shoots. The second tier is pulled at a height of 60-70 cm, and the next - every 35-40 cm.

For strongly grown varieties, the number of tiers should be at least four, and for slackers - two or three.

In the case of a sham formation, a batch is set for each bush from the first year of planting. The first tier of the wire is pulled at the height of the stem, the second double - at 25-30 cm for free dangling growth. If the stem is low, then stretch the second and third tiers - every 35-40 cm. The first tiers are pulled by the upper tiers, the lower tiers first.

Various options for installation of anchor poles

Types of trellises: 1 - single-plane;2. .. 3 - two-plane;4 - double row inclined

With a vertical trellis it is impossible to give the bushes a high load without reducing the productivity due to the thickening of the shoots. Therefore, a two-plane trellis is suitable for fertile, well-moistened areas for high-growth varieties, which differs from vertical by the presence of two inclined planes.

Tapestry makes a height of 2 m with branching in the direction of row spacing at the top of the center of the series by 75 cm. As with the usual trellis arrangement, the extreme rows of the two-plane trellis columns are firmly anchored with anchors or stoppers. To the upper ends of the pillars are attached wooden or metal bars of length 1.5 m. From the end of the rails down there are wooden slats or iron bars, which are fastened to the lower part of the poles at a height of 20-25 cm from the soil level. On the sides of the slats( rods) fasten to 3-4 rows of wire.

A similar effect can be achieved by setting the supporting columns in pairs obliquely to the rows and interlocking them in the upper part of the crossbar. On such trellis bushes can be formed as a multi-arm fan or cordon. The perennial and annual parts of the bushes distribute trellises along both planes so that the bushes or their parts occupy either the right or the left plane of the bushes.

A great advantage of a two-plane trellis is the possibility of increasing the number of bushes per unit area, i.е.more rational use of the land area of ​​the infield. But because of the laboriousness of the work on caring for the bushes, it can be mainly recommended in areas where the grapes do not hide during the winter period.

Conveyor system

Gallery system with round( a) and flat( b) "roof"

With the device of such a trellis, the support system can have a cross-shaped, Y-shaped. These forms can be created in the first case by attaching two slats on the supporting column at a height of 25-30 cm from the soil surface and fastening them in the upper part of the crossbar with a width of 1.5 m, in the second - by setting the two columns obliquely to one another and attaching them to the transversecrossbar.

The boring or gallery system of supports is used mainly for decorative purposes, while the above-ground part of the bush is located in the vertical and horizontal planes. The leaves under this system are better illuminated by the sun, and the grapes are under their protection.

The frame, which is installed for a gazebo or a gallery, has a height of 2.5-3 m, and width and length, depending on the conditions for planning the homestead or summer cottages and the characteristics of the planted varieties. Support posts( wooden or pipes) are placed at a distance of 3-4 m from each other.

A number of strong beams or racks are fixed on top of the pillars, and it is best to install an iron-welded frame with a strained grid of trellised wire with gaps( 0.5x0.5 m).The upper racking part of the arbor must be strong and reliable, on the vertical and horizontal part of the gallery pull the trellis wire every 60-80 cm.

Tapestry with "visor"

If in the courtyard of the vines they are put on a trellis with a height of 2.5 m, top it with a visorwith a wall, you get a gazebo. Pavilions can be separately standing, of various shapes - rounded, oval, quadrangular, polyhedral, with a varied coating( flat, domed, cone-shaped).

A vertical trellis with a visor( for a large fan shape), which has two planes: vertical and horizontal, also belongs to the conversation system. For its installation, support poles and their fastening should be strong. They are set at a height of about 2 m with a distance of not more than 3 m from each other. At the top of each column, a horizontal bar of 1 m length is attached, supported by another bar fixed to the lower end on the pole. The trellised wire is stretched on the vertical and horizontal parts.

Such a system is better to use near a wall, a fence or for decorating a rest corner.

To decorate the site, use supports to create an alley, from tall trellises without a visor and with a visor. Galleries can be made straight, semicircular, half-engaging.

With a support for wall culture, metal crutches are driven into the wall every 50-60 cm and the wire is stretched on them( the distance from the wire to the wall is 10-12 cm).You can use the usual vertical trellis as a wall system, setting it at a distance of 15-20 cm from the wall and thus increasing the height of the pillars and the number of tiers.

Support system of the type "our": a - Don;6 - decorative

The largest yield of high-quality large-bodied table grapes from a unit of area can be obtained on large cup-shaped forms, the best of which is for the vineyard viticulture zone is the Don bowl.

With this form of the bush, not only a continuous, but also the most capacious, rationally located sheet device is created. The bush looks like an inverted pyramid, has four inclined surfaces, or triangular trellises. Bowls, located close to each other, form rows or entire sections.

The support system for this form can be arranged in several ways. Classic - at a distance of 50-60 cm from the center of the fossa pit, four 50 cm support poles are driven into four corners, which are joined together by wooden slats. The next tier is created due to a similar, but more extensive support system. A third tier, created in a similar way, is also possible.

One to four bowls of grapes can be planted on one bowl. Adult bushes of cup-shaped plantations, depending on growth conditions and growth force, can have a load of 400 to 800 eyes.

An improved design - at the corners of a quadrilateral with sides 3-4 m in length and with a pit in the middle set strong supports 2.5-2.7 m high. Next to the landing pit, anchor is fixed, which is connected by a thick wire to the upper ends of the supports. Then through certain distances( 40-50 cm) they are connected horizontally by several tiers of wires.

Approximately the same result can be achieved by applying the following construction. A solid column with a height of 2.5-2.7 m is installed in the landing pit. On it, at an altitude of 2.3-2.5 m, a ring with a diameter of 3-4 cm is fixed from the wire. The second ring is fixed below 100-120 cm from the first. From these rings, 4-6 wires are pulled along the radius by fixing them on two rings made of iron rods 15-18 mm thick( the diameter of the lower ring is 80-100 cm, the upper one is -160-180 cm).In this way, two tiers of vine attachment are created. After the green garter of the shoots, this support takes the form of a green vase. In autumn, the foliage of many varieties becomes unusually beautiful purple and even pink, from which the grapes can be seen, which have acquired all the juiciness of their color.

Using a grapevine, you can draw a gate, disguise a fence, a garage, and green the old wall. A skillful combination of different types of supports will make the site an interesting and cozy corner for rest and aesthetic pleasure.

Type of the arbor system