Unconscious strawberry

( on the photo of a strawberry with a mustache)

This perennial plant, which has become widespread, can stay in one place for a long time. However, each bush quickly thickens, and the fruiting falls, so it must be planted about every four years. In fact, this is not one bush, but many plants that grew around planted plants from seeds that fell from overripe berries. Blossoms and fruits fruity strawberry from June to September. The berries are elongated in shape, the size and appearance are similar to the berries of wild strawberry and have the same strong aroma.

Landing

Planting of garden and fruity strawberries should not be located close to each other. The best look is the fond of strawberries, planted in small flower beds in flower beds or along paths, located in a row. It can be done by fringing a flower bed or a rocky hill, that is, this plant does not require a special place on the site, but, of course, it can be planted on a separate bed removed from the planting of garden strawberries. The bushes with numerous white flowers, green and red berries look very elegant all summer.

An uncontaminated strawberry is more resistant to diseases and pests of strawberries, in particular, to weevil and nematode.

Varieties of

The most common varieties of Ada, as well as the Sakhalin remontant have recently been replaced by varieties of Ali Baba, Baron Solemacher, Rugen, Yellow Miracle. The undoubted advantage of this strawberry is that it can be grown from seeds, and in the first summer it will begin to yield. You can multiply it by dividing the bush. It is important that it is more shade-tolerant than large-fruited strawberries, so it can be planted under the canopy of trees or between trees in the garden and even grown in flowerpots on a balcony, a loggia and a window sill in a room.

Seed multiplication by

Seed propagation in the wild strawberry does not cause splitting of the variety in the offspring, so safely sow it in February or early March in shallow containers, about 5-7 cm in height, most importantly, they should be wide( for example, a can fromherring).

Soil is best prepared from a mixture of peat, sand and sifted ash or chalk. Peat can be bought in a store for gardeners, small river sand and chalk - in the stores of construction goods or in the stores "Everything for the Home".Mix them in such a proportion: a bucket of peat, a package of sand weighing 1 -2 kg and 2 cups of chalk( or a liter of sifted ash).In the future, we will often use this mixture. Personally, I still add 1 teaspoon of the AVA universal fertilizer powder to the landing mixture. If you use ash, you can not make this fertilizer. If you do not have ash or AVA, take 1 tbsp.spoon azofoski.

This soil must be filled up to the top, it is good to soak it with water and compact with a tablespoon. Before sowing very small seeds of any strawberries, bring a little snow from the street, pour a thin layer on the soil and compact with a spoon. Now sow the seeds. They are clearly visible in the snow, and you can always move them so that there is not too thick crops.

It is better to plant seeds at a distance of about 2 cm from each other. All small seeds, not necessarily strawberry, should not be buried in the soil. They need light to germinate. Snow, melting, will tighten the seeds in the soil by half, and they will ascend well.

It is important that the surface layer of the soil does not dry out. To do this, it is best to place the glass on top of the jar( not the soil!) Or put the jar in a plastic bag and place it in a warm place. As soon as the seedlings, film or glass appear, we remove and move the container to the window sill as close to the glass as possible, or we light the seedlings with a fluorescent lamp for 12 hours. Shoots are so tiny that they resemble green small dots on the ground. To water them follows the water along the edge of the jar of a teaspoon. If the moisture gets on the cotyledonous leaves, they will stick to the surface of the soil and will no longer be able to rise. You can moisten the soil from the pipette.

Strawberry seedlings are not dived, but are simply thinned when two or three real leaves grow( therefore, sparse seeding is required).By the time of transplanting to a bed or in a "schoolchild"( a special place on a bed for growing seedlings), shoots should have 4-5 true leaves. The plants are so small that they can be removed with a lump of soil with a teaspoon. The soil should be prepared on the bed in advance, at least two weeks before plant transplantation, and be completely free of weeds. For a schoolchild, it is best to make a bulk soil from a mixture of peat, sand and ash, as described above. In this case, you do not have to constantly struggle with weeds. However, you can sow the seeds of strawberries in late August or early September directly to a prepared place, clean from weeds. I remind you that the seeds of strawberries do not close up in the soil!

It should be noted that when growing large-fruited strawberries from seeds, you risk not getting what you sowed, because, in contrast to the repair, in the progeny of garden strawberries there is a splitting of the variety. After the beginning of fruiting, you will have to select those bushes that will satisfy you, and the rest will be discarded.

Care

Strawberries grow well on slightly acid and neutral( pH 5-6) soils. Like most plants, strawberries prefer leafy humus or another, humus-rich soil, loam or sandy loam soils. However, the land should not be too greasy. If the soils are poor, podzolic, then a bucket of humus and 3 tbsp must be introduced when preparing the landing area.spoon azofoski for every square meter. In the initial period of growth, the most important thing is moisture. Watering young plantings should be regular, not allowing the slightest drying of the surface layer of the soil. While the plants are small, watering should be done carefully, so as not to damage the plant to the soil. Plant the seedlings after the spring frosts pass. No friable strawberries can be planted immediately in place at a distance of 30 cm from each other, although it seems at this moment too large.

Read more

In addition to bezosoy there are remontant strawberry varieties that give a mustache, so they can be multiplied by young rosettes, which is much simpler than seed propagation. In addition, when breeding with rosettes, all varietal features are retained.

Ten to fifteen years ago, many gardeners sought to grow on their plots remontant strawberry varieties due to the fact that they bear fruit twice a season. The first in the beginning of summer, the second time - at the end. The main difference between the repair and ordinary varieties of strawberries is that the varieties repair flower buds at a high temperature and a long light day. These varieties in the summer throw out a mustache, which, even without having taken root, immediately throw out the flower stem and begin to bear fruit. Sometimes you can read that the flowers in the spring flowering must be cut off in order to get a higher yield in the fall. In the Northwest, this should not be done. And this is why: the first harvest in early summer, although it is less than the second one, ripens completely in our conditions. But the second crop at the end of the summer, as a rule, does not have time to ripen and partially perishes, even when installing arcs with film coating over the plantings. Therefore, many of the repair classes were abandoned. However, for warmer regions these varieties make sense to grow, only you should know that the berries of the repairing varieties are smaller than those of the garden strawberries.