Perennial ornamental plants
Perennial floral plants , or perennials, can grow and blossom for a long time in one place without annual re-planting or planting, although from time to time they must be excavated and divided so that the developed shoots do not crowd each other. As a rule, perennials lose the above-ground part for winter( although there are also winter-green plants, for example, balee), and in the ground there are only rhizomes, bulbs or corms that give new shoots in the spring. Most plants winter in the ground( aquilegia, or catchment, perennial species of asters, daisies, peonies, phlox, etc.).Some perennials in certain climatic conditions can not hibernate, their underground parts( tubers, bulbs) in the autumn have to be excavated and stored in various cool storage facilities, for example in cellars. Of the unending perennials in the gardens are represented by dahlias, gladiolus. Among perennial blooming plants, perennials are propagated, propagated by seeds, bulbous and tuberous, rhizome and tuberous plant species.
Perennials propagated by seeds, for durability can be divided into three groups:
short-lived - delphinium, lupine,
pyrethrum and rudbeckia, requiring the
( division) after 2-3 years;
medium-durable - nivyanik, aquilegia,
coreopsis, gaylard, bell, lichen,
well growing in one place no more than
4 years;
durable - gypsophila, cinnamon, poppy,
primrose, growing in one place for more than 4 years,
and sometimes 6-7.
The scheme of growing perennials from the seeds is as follows: seeding in March-April for seedlings, 1-2 pickings for the planting ridge and landing at the end of summer in place. Seedlings are recommended to grow all cultures, except gypsophila, lupine and poppy, which do not tolerate transplants. They are sown in the ground, and then twice thin. The flowering of most of these perennials begins in the second year. Resumption of planting is recommended in 3-6 years, and it is better in a new place.
Seed multiplication is of paramount importance not only for plant breeding, but also in selection work for breeding new varieties.
Before sowing, the seeds of perennials are disinfected. They are etched with a 0.2% solution of potassium permanganate. Seeds in the tissue bag are lowered into the solution for 15 minutes, then washed with water, dried and sown. Soaking seeds in water before spring sowing speeds up the emergence of shoots. After pickling, the soaked seeds are scattered in a thin layer, covered with wet paper or gauze, they are kept moist for 24-30 hours, after which they are sown necessarily in moist soil followed by regular watering.
For some perennials, the seeds for breeding from dormant to spring planting are subjected to stratification in advance( in autumn): mixed with moist sand in proportion of 1 part of the seeds to 3 parts of sand and stored in the basement at a temperature of 1-4C, making sure thatThe sand did not dry up and was loose, for which it is regularly mixed and, if necessary, moistened. Seeding of perennial seeds in the open ground is made in spring and autumn. Autumn sowing has a number of advantages, especially for those plants in which the seeds are covered with a dense, hard-swelling peel( aconite, cow-grass, etc.).In the autumn planting, they produce uniform, uniform shoots in the spring; in the spring season, shoots appear only the next year. Perennials with fast germinating seeds( gypsophila, poppy, lupine, cyanosis, gorichvet) should be sown late in the autumn( October-November) after a steady cooling with the expectation that the seeds do not have time to germinate. With the onset of warming in the spring, they will quickly give amicable shoots. Early spring sowing for this group of perennials also yields good results. The sowing is carried out on the ridges, which are prepared from autumn. Preparation of beds is carried out in the usual way: digging, careful removal of rhizomes of weeds, fertilization. Seeds of perennials are sown in rows or nests. Nests are placed one from the other at a distance of 20-25 cm, in each nest 5-6 large seeds or 15-20 small ones are sown. After the emergence of shoots, the plants in the nests are thinned out. In the ordinary planting, rows are made transversely or along a ridge at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other. Longitudinal rows are more convenient for inter-row processing.
Care of crops is in irrigation, feeding, regular weeding and thinning of thickened shoots. Decimation should be made in a timely manner, with the appearance of the first real leaflet. Extruded seedlings dive on ridges at a distance of 20 x 10, 20 x 15 or 20 x 25 cm to grow them for 1-2 years.
When breeding perennials, not all their species should be propagated by seeds: many perennials during seed reproduction do not transmit varietal characters to their offspring, and some species rarely form seeds and bear fruit poorly. In such cases resort to vegetative reproduction. There are many different ways of vegetative reproduction: stem and root cuttings, division of rhizomes and tubers, offsprings, layers, bulbs. Each specific method of reproduction is selected in accordance with the peculiarities of the biology of a particular plant species.
Perennials reproduce in a variety of ways: seeds, stem and root cuttings, bush division, rhizomes, offsprings, layers, bulbs. Both seed and vegetative propagation methods for the vast majority of perennials do not require either greenhouses or a greenhouse - they multiply easily and simply under the conditions of an open pound.
Rhizomatic perennials are herbaceous plants that have modified underground stems, called rhizomes. They are of different shapes, but they always play the role of a reserve organ. From the rhizome grow roots, on it buds of renewal are formed, from which every spring spring flower stems grow. These stems are annual, they die after some time after flowering. On the rhizome in the summer, new kidneys are laid and developed. Thus, in perennials, one generation of annual shoots replaces another. The rhizome perennials include phlox, astilba, primula, lily-of-the-valley, daylily, host, etc.
All the rhizome plants are wintering, that is, in the conditions of the middle belt, the winter period in the ground is transferred. The rhizome perennials are propagated vegetatively by dividing the rhizomes, cuttings, buds of renewal. The most common, simple and effective way of vegetative propagation is the division of the rhizome, that is actually the division of the bush.
Vegetative reproduction is of great practical importance, since it guarantees the production of plants that repeat all the signs of the mother. By the method of vegetative propagation, new varieties can be rapidly multiplied, obtaining rather quickly developed flowering specimens.
Divided and transplanted hibernating perennials early in spring, in April-early May, or in the second half of summer, in August-September, so that they managed to take root well for winter. If they have a limited number of queen cells and tend to multiply the plant faster, it is divided as small as possible. Plants with small division in the first and second year develop slowly, blossom only in the second or third year. With a sufficient number of mothers, they are usually divided into 3-5 parts - depending on the capacity of the bush. With this division many kinds of perennials begin to bloom already in the first year, and from the second year they bloom abundantly. To obtain well-developed perennials with abundant flowering, they should be planted in the garden after 1-2 years of cultivation from the moment of division on special, well-fertilized areas.
Breeding multiplication is used not only for rhizome perennials, but also for species propagated by seeds. If perennials such as gaylardia, rudebe-cia, delphinium, pyrethrum grow in the same place for 4-5 years without transplantation, then further growth and flowering are weakened. To cause again abundant flowering and growth, their bushes should be divided into parts and planted. When propagation cuttings use three types of cuttings - stem, leaf and root.
A cuttings is a part of a stem, root, leaf or whole leaf that, when separated from the mother plant, becomes well established under certain conditions and turns into new, completely independent plants.
Cutting of the along with other breeding methods makes it possible, with a limited number of initial masterbatch copies, to multiply the plant of interest and ensures the production of homogeneous specimens, which in their decorative features completely repeat the mother plant. In addition, specimens propagated vegetatively begin to bloom and bear fruit earlier than plants grown from seeds.
The most promising multiplication of perennials stem, or green,
komi, by rooting them in the open ground on shaded beds. This method of reproduction is so simple that it can be successfully recommended to all growers. A high percentage of rooting depends mainly on the correct timing of cuttings, which are due to the nature of the growth and development of the uterine plant, the state of the shoot itself, used on the cuttings. Proceeding from this, all perennials can be divided into two groups according to the method of cuttings propagation.
The first group of combines plants that have the most longest cuttings of - from the end of April to the middle of August. This group of perennials is characterized by an active growth of young shoots during most of the growing season. This includes all perennial plants with hibernating aerial shoots, forming cushions and turfs( sedum, Arabis, floks, turfy);rootstocks, root-shoots, stylon plants with grassy shoots, flowering late in the autumn( perennial asters, rudbeckias) or blooming in early spring( primroses), but characterized by prolonged vegetation, the ability to form summer rosettes of leaves and shoots( phlox);when cuttings are cut, they easily form additional roots. The second group of combines plants that give the best results when rooting cuttings in the for a limited time. These plants are characterized by active stripping at the beginning of the growing season, sometimes continuing until flowering. Then, the bud formation is suspended, the flowering shoots quickly become woody and do not form roots during the cuttings( delphinium, aquilegia, aconite, tsimitsifuga, hypsophila, beautiful diclitra, vasilistnik, peony, etc.).Shoots for cuttings should be harvested from healthy, young( 3-4 year old), well-developed plants.
In plants of the first group, long shoots can be cut into cuttings measuring 3 cm or more( 2-4 internodes) depending on the species of the plant being propagated. The lower cut is made at a distance of 3 mm from the leaf node, the upper one - above it by 6-10 mm. From short young shoots, you can get 1-2 cuttings 3-5 cm long. In some cases cuttings can not be cut off, but can be broken off or torn from the mother plant. Well-rooted apical shoots are well established. In plants of the second group, cuttings of the upper part of the young shoot with interlocking internodes and poorly developed leaves are cut on the cuttings when the asdity of the
stem has not yet manifested itself. Such cuttings give a higher percentage of rooting compared to cuttings cut from the bottom of the shoot, where the lignification process usually begins earlier.
Removal of a part of the leaf blade to reduce evaporation is recommended for plants with moderately moisture-loving( fungi, peony, phlox) with large, highly volatile leaves. For plants that are drought-resistant and with small leaves( sedum, sax-sifraga, Arabis, sempervivum, cerastium, etc.), little evaporating moisture, pruning leaves.
A number of species of perennial plants can be propagated not only by stem, but also by leaf cuttings. This applies particularly to those perennial plants in which adnexal or dormant buds are formed not on the stem but on the base of the enlarged end of the petiole leaf( for example, in lupine) or on the base of the leaf plate of the sitting leaf( Nivian, solidago, etc.).Only fully formed leaves with normally developed petioles root well. They should not be cut, but pulled off or gently squeezed off the stem. Depending on the size of the leaf cuttings, they are planted at a depth of 0.9-1.5 cm. Lay leaf cuttings with a slope to one side so that the leaves are close to each other.
Rays are done in shaded places, the surface is compacted. For normal root formation in leaf cuttings, it is necessary to maintain a constant moisture, which is achieved by daily watering( 1-2 times) and spraying. In hot dry weather, the amount of watering and spraying is increased. Spraying should be done in the first 1-2 weeks, but you should keep in mind that excess moisture during the formation of the plant can cause decay. In the first days after planting, leaf cuttings should be covered with moist gauze, so that they do not wilt. When they restore the tour-mountains of tissues, the cover is removed. With the beginning of the rooting process, the spraying is stopped and the number of waterings is reduced. In the future, watering is carried out in such a way as to prevent the ridges from drying out. Some types of flowering decorative deciduous perennials, such as poppy oriental, lupine multifoliate, beautiful diklitru, Japanese anemone, it is possible to propagate with root cuttings. This applies to those perennial plants that form adnexal buds in the sites of injuries on the roots. When the root of the
is separated from the mother plant, the kidneys develop new shoots with a new root system. The most active subordinal buds develop on young roots. The best time for harvesting root cuttings from herbaceous perennials is August - early September.
The queen is carefully excavated, trying to keep all the roots. Then, the roots are separated from a thickness of 0.3 to 2 cm and cut into parts 5-7 cm long. After this, the cuttings are laid in horizontal rows on a previously prepared shaded bed. From above, they are covered with a layer of sand 0.5 cm thick and earth - 2 cm, then slightly compacted and watered.
Cuttings of August harvesting take root within a month. Care and further cultivation are the same as with green cuttings. Root cuttings harvested in September, with autumn planting can rot, so they should be kept in a non-freezing room until spring. By spring they are prepared for further growth and development. They are planted on the ridges, where they take root within 20-25 days. The peony is planted with fragments of fleshy roots. On the soils of fertile and loose peony shoots develop for the second and third years.
Korneklubnevye and tuber perennial plants have a special structure of the roots. The roots of them are strongly thickened and turned into root crops and tubers, which serve as a reservoir for large stocks of nutrients. The lifespan of these formations is different: in dahlia - 3 years, in iris - 5 years, in begonia tuber - more than 6 years.
The development of perennial tuberous roots occurs as follows: the young root of the plant thickens from the very beginning and turns into a nutrient-storing organ, then it gradually increases in size as the nutrients enter and accumulate.
All root and tuber perennials, except dahlias and begonias, winter in the ground in conditions of the middle belt. With this in mind, the scheme for growing tuberous and root-tuber perennials is as follows: wintering plants are divided and transplanted according to their individual biological cycle in spring or summer, tubers of uninjured plants are planted in the spring in spring, digged in autumn and stored in winter until the next planting in spring.
Perennials of this group are propagated by dividing the root club so that each division has at least one kidney of renewal. So, for example, dahlias in the spring or autumn after excavation necessarily divide, removing the old 3-year-old tubers. On each de-lenke should be 1-2 Korneklubnya with a piece of hemp with a kidney( kidney), from which will later develop a new shoot. Kornekluben iris cut with a sharp knife, so that each delenka had its own spatula of leaves. The most suitable time for the division and planting of the corn-root iris is immediately after flowering, when the old root system dies and the young one begins to form. A large rhizome is excavated with pitchforks from the ground and carefully shaken. The old parts of the rhizome are cut off, leaving only the young growths of this year. The roots are cut to a length of 5-7 cm, the leaf blades are also shortened to reduce the evaporation of water before rooting. In irises, which have a fleshy tuberkorn-it and sedentary leaves, for cuttings cut weak young side shoots with a heel. Rooting is successful, the plants develop well. In addition, many gardeners, believe that, for example, dahlias better, more efficiently and successfully multiply not by dividing tubers, but by cuttings. Dahlias differ in the high degree of survival of the cuttings, they should be cut off with the heel from the mother plant. To reduce the evaporation of large lower leaves in cuttings by 1/3 or 1/2 shorten. In the rest the process of propagation and propagation proceeds in the same way as described for rhizome perennials. Tartrate begonia is usually propagated by seeds.
The general rule: parts of the divided rhizome or root crop are planted at the same depth as they grew earlier.
Bulbous perennial plants constitute a separate large group of ornamental plants.
In its biological characteristics, most bulbous plants belong to the group of ephemeroid plants - plants with a short vegetation period. During this short period, they intensively grow and accumulate nutrients in the bulbs, with the most intensive accumulation occurring from the moment of flowering and during a certain period after flowering.
Bulbous flower plants develop from a bulb that is a modified underground shoot of plants with a short flat stem( donets) and fleshy, colorless leaves( scales), adapted to accumulate nutrients.
Due to the stocks of these nutrients, plants successfully grow and develop, carry wintering in the ground and a number of other adverse effects.
There are two types of bulbs - filmy and skully, which differ in the way they form scales.
Foil bulbs, , as for example in narcissus and tulip, have juicy scales covering each other and forming almost concentric circles around the growth point. Each scaly leaf forms an axillary bud. External scales dry, so they protect the bulb from damage and drying. The roots of the membranous bulbs grow at the very beginning, immediately after planting: they appear on the bottom of the base of the lower scales. Tubular bulbs, , as for example in hazel grouse and lily, have juicy narrow scales that do not cover the common cover, which makes them dry much faster than filmy ones. Roots are formed in the middle of summer or later and are preserved until next year.
The scheme of growing bulbous plants is as follows: the plant blooms mainly in spring, with the exception of later lilies, then there is a gradual dying off of the aboveground part, the bulbs are dug out, stored and re-planted. Flowering should be in the spring of next year. However, not all bulbs are excavated annually, for example, daffodils dig out once in 2-3 years, and lilies - every 3 years. Bulbs are excavated at the moment of withering and death of the aboveground part of the plant, stored under a certain temperature and humidity regime and planted on the prepared bed in the first or second decade of September.
When the bulbs are linearly planted in the rabbits, it is possible to make an appropriate groove depth at the bottom of which the bulbs are made, then the grooves are covered with earth and leveled.
Between the digging of the bulb and the subsequent flowering of the plant, a rest period comes in the next year, which, although it has this name, is actually very active, because it is at this time that the responsible processes of organ formation take place in the onion: the laying of new daughter bulbs,leaves and flowers. The weakened growth of the flower's organs occurs before the end of January, and with the beginning of the growing season it accelerates and reaches its maximum with the onset of flowering.
After flowering, the aerial parts of bulbous plants die, and a rest period sets in. With the death of the aboveground parts, the mother bulb is destroyed( as in the tulip), and a replacing and a few small onion bulbs are formed, or preserved( as in the hyacinth) and forms 1-2 daughter bulbs.
Plants with a foil bulb are propagated with onion bulbs, which are formed on the sides of a bulb of axillary buds. To increase the yield of children, for example, in the hyacinth, the bulb of old bulbs crosswise cut or cut out. Bulbs separated from the mother bulb are sorted and planted for further culture. Plants with tiny bulbs are propagated by scales, which are separated from the old bulb and planted in sand or light nutritive ground. After rooting the scales with sufficient heat and moisture, small bulbs develop at their base, which then reach their normal size. Flowering bulbs are obtained in the third, and sometimes in the fourth or fifth year.
A number of lily species form daughter bulbs, as well as plants with a filmy bulb. They grow below the surface of the earth on underground shoots, above or below the main bulb. At the end of summer, the earth is gently raked, the children are separated and planted to a depth about twice their size.
The formation of such onions can be stimulated by them artificially. Separated from the plants, the flower stems are buried in the ground, resulting in bulbs forming in the lower part of the stem. To do this, dig a groove depth of about 15 cm from the stem remove all the flowers and buds and tear it from the bulb that remains in the ground. Then it is laid in an inclined groove so that the tip of the stem protrudes slightly to the surface of the soil. For preventive purposes, the stem is treated with a fungicide, then it is closed with sand or a light soil mixture.
By the autumn, on the lower part of the stem, axillary bulbs are formed. They can either be left in place, or separated and transplanted into the soil.
This method of vegetative propagation is rather simple. The only difficulty is connected with the possibility of decay of the stem even before bulbs appear on it. In the axils of the leaves of some species of lilies( bulbous, tiger), small air bulbs, or bulbs, are formed in large numbers. Bulbs are collected ripe from the faded by this time plants and planted in pots, cover with a thick layer of sand and put in a cold greenhouse In the autumn of next year they are transplanted into the open ground. Sometimes bulbs are sown directly from autumn to the ground and for the third year they receive flowering plants. Bulbous plants are also multiplied by dividing the nests and planting the old bulbs in autumn. Especially large bulb nests grow at the lilies, the division of such formations is absolutely necessary for the development of the plant, otherwise the bulbs in the nest begin to crowd each other and there is a lack of nutrition and space.
Some rules for planting bulbs
It is necessary to observe the timing of planting: the bulbs must have time to take root, but do not grow. If the planting is too early, the bulbs may start growing early and be damaged by frost. Delayed planting is also unacceptable: plants do not take root, they are more easily exposed to diseases and lag behind with flowering in the spring.
"In the middle belt, tulips, daffodils and hyacinths are planted from the middle of September to the beginning of October, so that before the onset of frosts they may well take root. The best time for planting lilies is from the beginning of August to the middle of September.
Before planting, all bulbs must be carefully inspected, sorted by size( if this was not done after digging).
Be sure to remove all diseased bulbs. Bulbs with small mechanical damages are suitable for planting.
The soil for planting must be prepared in advance, for this purpose a double deep digging is carried out and fertilizers are introduced. Before planting the soil should be slightly loosened and leveled.
Bulbs can be planted in the wells, but the grooves are more convenient.
| Name | Height, cm | Number of plants per 1 m2 4-10 | Flowering time VI-VII | Coloration of flowers | ||||
| Aquilegia | 60-80 | White, blue, blue, yellow | ||||||
| Anemone oak wood | 20 | 25 | IV-V | White, blue, purple | 50-70 | 10-15 | VI-VII | White, yellow |
| Astra alpine | 20-30 | 15-25 | V-VI | Lilac | ||||
| Autumnal ashtray | 15-20 | 25-50 | IX | White, pink, red | ||||
| Hogweed | 150-250 | 1 | VII | White | ||||
| Vasilist | 100-150 | 4-9 | VI-VII | White, blue, pink | ||||
| Cinnamon cinnamon | 25-40 | 15-25 | VI-VIII | White, pink, red | ||||
| Helenium autumn | 80-150 | 4-9 | VIII-X | Red, yellow | ||||
| Dahlia | 60-150 | 1-9 | VII-X | White, lilac, pink, red, orange, yellow | ||||
| Hesperis | 70-80 | 9-10 | VI-VII | White, lilac, purple | ||||
| Gladiolus | 100-140 | 8-12 | VII-X | White, lilac, pink, red, yellow | ||||
| Delphinium | 100-200 | 4-10 | VI-VII | White, lilac, violet | ||||
| Iris hybrid garden | 30-75 | 9-10 | VI | White, blue, blue, pink | ||||
| Iris Siberian | 90 | 5-10 | V | White, blue, blue | ||||
| Canna | 50-150 | 9-10 | VII-X | Pink, red, yellow | ||||
| Bell | 60-100 | 5-10 | VII-VIII | White, lilac, purple | ||||
| Crocus | 12-16 | 100 | rv-v | White, orange | ||||
| Bathing suit | 40-70 | 10-16 | V-VII | Orange, yellow | ||||
| Lily of the valley | 15-25 | 50-100 | V-VII | White, pink | ||||
| Lilies | 30-200 | 5-10 | VI-IX | White, red, orange, yellow | ||||
| Lupine | 90-120 | 4-10 | VI-VII | White, blue, blue, violet, red, yellow | ||||
| Oriental mushroom | 60-80 | 4-10 | V-VI | Pink, red, orange | ||||
| Small finch | 60 | 9-16 | VI-X | Lilac, yellow | ||||
| Muscari | 12-20 | 60-100 | V | White, light blue | ||||
| Narcissus | 35-45 | 25-50 | V-VI | White, yellow | ||||
| Night violet | 40 | 16-25 | VI-VII | White | ||||
| Purified fine | 35-40 | 10-25 | VIII-X | Pink | ||||
| Peony | 70-120 | 1-4 | V-VI | White, pink, red | ||||
| Pyrethrum | 60-70 | 4-10 | VI-VIII | Pink, red | ||||
| Snowdrop | 12-15 | 100 |
| 100 |
| White | ||
| Primrose spring | 20-25 | 16-25 | rv-v | White, red, orange | ||||
| Scilla | 15-20 | 100 | rv | White, blue | ||||
| Camomile large-color | 60-80 | 9-10 | VI-VII | 9-10 | VI-X | White, blue, purple, pink | ||
| Tulip | 30-60 | 25-65 | V-VI | White, pink, red, yellow | ||||
| Violet fragrant | 15-20 | 50 | IV-IX | White,purple | ||||
| Phlox turfy | 15-20 | 16-25 | V-VII | Purple, pink | ||||
| Phlox frosted | 40-120 | 9-10 | VII-X | White, purple, purple, pink | ||||
| Fuchsia | 30-50 | 9-16 | VII | White, lilac |
The density of planting depends on the size of bulbs and corms: the smaller the planting material, the thicker it can be planted.
The distance between the plants in the row is 10-15 cm for large bulbs of hyacinths, 8-12 for tulips, 10-12 cm for daffodils. Small bulbs and a baby are planted thicker. The width of the rows can vary from 15 to 25 cm.
The depth of planting is very important: they take into account not only the size of the bulbs, but also the type of soil. On a heavier landing depth decreases by 2-3 cm, on the lung increases by the same amount.
Plants with large bulbs plant deeper, shallow - to a lesser depth. Lilies bulbs are planted at a considerable depth, because many of them develop so-called supramundary roots.
There is a rule that simplifies the determination of the depth of planting bulbs and corms: the depth of planting should be equal to the triple height of the planting material.
The tips of the bulbs are directed upwards when planted. Being inverted, they will sprout later, at different times, and will be weakened.
After finishing the landing, the surface must be slightly leveled.
All bulbs need sufficient soil moisture after planting: without this, normal rooting is impossible. Watering will accelerate rooting and lower the temperature of the soil.
Well-rooted bulbs carry winters without shelter, and poorly rooted need shelter from needles, peat, humus or dry leaves. In general, mulching for the winter of planting with peat or humus in comparison with unopened ridges gives an excellent result.
Depth of planting bulbs of various flower plants
1. Veins.2. Crocus.3 - Spring vestnik.
4. Anemone. 5. Snowdrop.6. Muscari. 7. Scilla.
8. Small narcissus bulbs.9. Kandyk.
10. Colchicum.11. Decorative bow.
12. Hionodox.13. White-flowered spring.
14. Hyacinth.15. The tulip.16. Narcissus.17. Lily.
18. Eremurus.19. Hazel( fritillaria)
The tuberous perennial plants stand out in a separate group on the basis of the features of the structure of the bulb. Corm-bulb is an underground thickened stem, which serves to store nutrients. Outwardly, it is very similar to an onion, but in structure they are very different. The corms are shorter and wider than the bulbs: on it are placed the leaves turned to thin dry films, covering it and protecting it from damage and drying out;In the sinus of each leaf there is a kidney;the tip of the stem usually develops into a flower-shoot;roots grow from the base of the corms, often having a concave shape. Some tuberous bulbous plants form a few flower buds in the upper part of the corms.
Every year at the base of each stem a new daughter corm is formed, replacing the dying corms. At the base of the daughter bulb on short shoots appear tuberchinki-babies. In natural conditions, plants that form corms, just so multiply.(The most famous strawberry flowers: gladiolus and mount.)
These species do not hibernate in the ground, since they can not tolerate the critical temperatures for them.
Characteristics of some perennials
of freezing soil. For the winter corms are excavated and stored until the spring. In accordance with this, the following pattern of cultivation is applied: planting in spring, beginning with the third decade of April, a period of growth, flowering, excavation of bulbs 30-40 days after flowering and storage in appropriate conditions during the winter until spring planting for the following year. The depth of planting depends on the size of the corms and the composition of the soil. Large bulbs plant to a depth of 15 cm on light soils and up to 8-10 cm on heavy. The distance between plants is 10-15 cm, between rows - 25-30 cm. In order not to be mistaken, it is best to plant corms to a depth equal to its three diameters. For young tubers and children the depth of planting decreases.
It is recommended to use simple but very effective method for the prevention of fungal diseases: planting bulbs and corms in a so-called sand pillow. River sand in a small layer is poured under the bottom of the bulb, and then lightly covered with it from above. This not only protects the bulb of the bulb from infection, but also serves to improve drainage.
Club-perennial perennials form a large number of tubercles, which serve for reproduction. These plants can be propagated by cutting the corms into several parts. Each part gives a normal corms, sometimes blooming in the same year.