Tulips
Description and varieties. The tulip , without a doubt, is the favorite and most popular bulbous culture in the world. The magnificence of its flowering in the spring has long amazed the imagination of people, making this flower the object of worship, deification, worship: it was loved in the East, in Asia Minor and especially in Europe, where the tulip was rightfully considered the king of flowers. In Europe, tulips were imported in the 16th century and immediately conquered Germany, England and especially Holland, where the fascination with this flower became a national insanity, which went down in history as "tulip fever."It is to the Dutch breeders that the world owes so much to the incredible wealth of modern varieties of tulips. There are about 150 species of tulips growing in East and Middle Asia, the
Hopeway flower form( Darwin's hybrids class, Non-Late late)
to Africa and Europe. In floriculture, mainly hybrid forms are common, recently some species and hybrids between them have also spread. Tulips are ephemeroid perennial bulbous plants of the family of lily flowers with large flowers bell-shaped, cup-shaped or funnel-shaped. Flowers have a variety of colors, are arranged vertically, often one at a time, sometimes several at the ends of the stems. In some species, flowers are drooping. Perianth consists of 6 lobes of the same size, oval or elongated, with pointed or rounded edges. A flower of very many species and varieties has a dark spot at the bottom, surrounded by a yellow border. Stem cylindrical, erect, its height in different species( varieties) is not the same.
leaves Cup-shaped flower shape( Triumph class)
Oval flower shape( Non-Late late class)
Parrot flower form( class Parrots)
skinny linear or elongate-oval in shape, caecal sessile, encircling the stem. The bulbs of the tulips are pear-shaped or ovoid in shape with a pronounced bottom, pointed sharply upward. Bulbs are covered with dense skin of brown color, from the inside, and sometimes outside the pubescence. This peel is called covering scales. On the outer side on the bottom there is a crown of future roots, with the inner root - from 1 to 5 densely packed juicy feeding scales. Scales contain a supply of nutrients for the upcoming period of growth. The bulb is completely depleted and dies during growth and flowering, in its place a nest of new bulbs is formed.
Tulip bulbs, unlike hyacinths, are renewed annually, replaced with new ones. The bud of the main replacing bulb is laid near the flower stem of the current year very early, but later the daughter peripheral kidneys. The first is laid the kidney at the base of the first feeding scales, the first behind the covering, and then successively the kidneys are laid at the base of each scales towards the center of the bulb, and their magnitude decreases. The development of the kidneys occurs consistently, and the replacement kidney, although it is laid last, but in its development overtakes all the others and forms the largest replacing bulb. In the replacing bulb, leaves and a flower bud are immediately laid. The annual cycle of tulip development is as follows. In June and July, instead of the tulip bulbs planted since autumn, they dig out nests consisting of 3-5 easily disintegrating bulbs. The largest of them is the substitute
Lily-colored( class Lily-colored)
Terry-shaped flower( class Terry)
Fragrant form of the flower( class Frit)
lies in the center, next to the dried flower stalk, the rest are called children and are smaller.
The number of daughter bulbs depends on the size of the uterine bulb, and in cultural forms and on the variety.
In the period of summer rest inside the mother bulb in miniature all the parts of the future flower are formed. At the end of storage( mid-September), a root system is placed in the bulb. Donets with root buds swell and pull out, ripping the covering scales. Since the planting of the bulb( mid-to-late September), active root growth begins, lasting 25-35 days. Their length reaches 20 cm. It should be noted that the numerous rootlets of tulips are subordinate and die every year. At the same time, a bulb emerges from the bulb, reaching almost the surface of the soil. In this condition the bulbs hibernate.
Early in the spring, a sheet folded into a straw appears directly from under the snow, inside of which is a flower shoot. With the onset of warm weather, the tulips quickly begin budding, and then flowering. At this time the feeding scales of the mother bulb are gradually depleted. The replacement bulb surpasses the size and development of the lateral daughter. The size of the children increases from the peripheral to the central. In the replacing and close to her daughter bulbs, rudiments of the second generation bulbs are laid( grandchildren).
Approximately 3 weeks after flowering, the aerial part begins to turn yellow and gradually wilt. The old mother bulb with roots also dies. Substituting and daughter bulbs complete the growth, are covered with brown
scales, but within them the processes of development of the buds of flowers and new bulbs continue. The number of bulbs formed in the nest is a varietal trait, but the size and quantity of bulbs formed depend on the soil and climatic conditions and the level of agrotechnology. All existing tulips for today, and more than 2,500 varieties are known, are divided into 15 classes, which in turn are grouped into 4 groups.
Group I. Early-flowering tulips.
Class 1. Early non-basic, vum simple. Plants 25-40 cm high with a cup or goblet, as well as an oval shape of the flower, pink, red or yellow. Blossom in early-mid-April. Class 2. Early terry. Plants 25-30 cm high with low sturdy peduncles. Flowers are terry, the petals of the flower are widely blossomed in the sun, and then the diameter of the opened flower can reach 8 cm. Flowers of bright coloration do not fade for a long time. Blossom in early-mid April, almost simultaneously with Early simple tulips.
Group II.Middle-tulip tulips.
Class 3 - Triumph. The plants of this class are taller than the Early Tulips, they can be up to 70 cm high with large goblet flowers of the most diverse color: red, purple, lilac, yellow, pink and even white. Many varieties with bicolour flowers. Flowers have strong stems and sturdy peduncles. Resistant to wind. Blossom in late April - early May. Class 4 - Darwin hybrids. Plants high, up to 80 cm, strong with sturdy peduncles. Flowers are large, goblet-shaped and oval in shape, mostly red in various shades or yellow. More and more varieties with a two-tone color appear. The flowering of many varieties is early, usually in late April - early May.
This group is mainly used for cutting and forcing.
Group III. Late colors of tulips.
Class 5 - Non-masonry, or simple, late. Plants powerful with a high sturdy peduncle in height 60-70 cm, flowers large cup-shaped white, yellow, red, lilac and pink. In this class there are also varieties with flowers of another shape: it can be a large glass of elongated, slightly pointed up-shaped form, like the Rosie Wings, and a huge glass of lily-shaped with the corners of the petals twisted, like that of Temple of Beauty.
In this class there are also very decorative two-tone varieties of tulips. Blossom in the middle of May, when tulips of early classes start to bloom. Class 6. Lily-colored. Plants in height 60-70 cm with a graceful elongated flower shape and narrow, pointed, bent back petals. These tulips are immediately recognizable by the original shape of the flower, which, when it is spread out under the rays of the sun, resembles a lily in appearance. Coloring flowers is various: red, purple, pink, yellow, orange and white. The flowering of some varieties is quite early, usually they bloom in the second half - the end of May.
Class 7- Friable. Plants of various heights( 40-80 cm) with large flowers, in which the edges of the petals are finely chopped. This needle fringe along the edge of the petal lengthens at its apex, serves as a hallmark of this class of tulips and explains the name of the class. Coloring is various: red, violet, yellow, two-color, all colors and shades, except black. Fimbriated tulips grow well in the open ground and give a qualitative cut. Blossom in the middle-end of May.
Class 8. Green-colored tulips. The height of plants varies from 25-30 cm in low-growth varieties to 35-50 cm in medium-sized plants. The class received its name because of the properties of the flowers to preserve the green color of the underside of the petals during the entire flowering period, unlike other classes of tulips, in which, when they are colored, the bud loses its green color. When the flowers bloom, there is an effective contrast of the green middle with the coloring of the edges of the petals. Flowers are not very large, 5-7 cm tall, the edges of the petals are thin, bent. Blossom in the middle-end of May.
Class 9 - Rembrandt. The plants are tall enough, sturdy, up to 75 cm in height, strong stems. Flowers of medium size, goblet shape with strokes, stains and divorces on petals. Such variegated tulips of the Rembrandt class are due to viral diseases that alter the original color of the petals. Stains and stains appear on the white, yellow and red background of the petals. Blossom in the middle-end of May. Class 10. Parrots. High plants, up to 80 cm with weak stems and very large cup-shaped flowers with strongly petrified petals. Coloring is the most diverse, often two-, three-color, in the range from white to purple, almost black. Tulips of this class are rightfully considered the most exotic. Deep incisions of the wavy edges of the petals in combination with the variegated coloring create the illusion of feathers of strange birds. Fully unfolding, the flowers become extremely large and reach 20 cm in diameter. Weak fragile stalks of plants are not able to withstand the weight of the flower, therefore parrot tulips require support. Blossom in the middle-end of May. Class 11. Terry. High plants( up to 80 cm) with large double flowers, similar to peonies. For this similarity late terry tulips are sometimes called pion-like. Color white, yellow, pink, red, purple. Some varieties of flowers are fragrant. Flowers Terry tulips are very heavy, and the stems often break off. Therefore, they should choose an absolutely windless place and use supports. Blossom in late May.
All classes of late-tinted tulips are widely used for cutting.
Group IV.Wild-growing, species tulips and their hybrids.
The group includes wild species, mainly Middle Asian varieties and their hybrids. Most varieties of this group are early and small. Used for the design of rock gardens, curbs and for the Fimbriated tulips
| Grade | petals Coating | Coating fringe w shshshshshmmShKshshShshyaYaschshschshshschshshshsh | |
| Pasadena( D) | purple to a pink shade | purple to a pink shade | |
| Regulus( P) | Violet with purple fringe | White | |
| Ricardo( P) | Lilac Magenta | Morelight | |
| Skipper( P) | Blue-violet with bronze border | Bronze | |
| Fringed Lylek( P) | Lilac-violet | Lilac | |
| Humor( P) | Purple with lilac border Pink | Lilac | |
| Berne( P) | Bordeaux pink | Lilac pink | |
| Bellflower( P) | Pink cowberry | Light pink | |
| Wendy | Dark pink with a reddish rim | Lighter | |
| Christella( P) | Lilac | White | |
| Rendburg( P) | Cherry pink | White | |
| Sagitta( P) | Carmine pink with a reddish rim | Pink | |
| Fancy Friels( C) | Below white, wide rim | ||
| lilac-pink | Lilac pink | ||
| Exotics( C) | white, wide border | ||
| lilac-pink | Lilac-pink | ||
| Esteron( P) | Reddish-pink White | Pink | |
| New Bow( P) | White with a pale pink border | Pale pink | |
| Its Wings | White Red | White | |
| Aleppo( C) | Pink-red with wide rim of ripe apricot color | Colors of ripe apricot | |
| Armagh( R) | Carmine-red | Scarlet | |
| Asama( P) | Claret red | Red | |
| Burgundy Leis( P) | Russet raspberry | Russet raspberry | |
| Johann Gutenberg( P) | Claret red | White | |
| Crystal Beauty( CP) | Red | Orange-redseparate fringe needles can have white tips | |
| Mikkeli( P) | Blood-red with a pink border | Yellow | |
| Ministrel( P) | Red | Red, highly developed | |
| Madison Garden( SP) | Bright pink-red | White | |
| NORAND) | Dark red | Orange | |
| Reding( P) | Dark red, as if varnished | Red | |
| Sandew( _) | Raspberry red | Lighter | |
| Sotis( P) | Bloody red | Bright red | |
| Furness) | Smoky red to pink border | creamy | |
| fringed Apeldoorn( CP) | Red | Bright red | |
| Fridzhed Beauty( P) | cinnabar red( gustomahrovye) | golden-yellow | |
| Hellas( P) | orange-red | Orange | |
| Henley( TT) | purplish red | purplish red | |
| Heidrun Harden( P) | Claret raspberry | reddish | |
| Edda( P) | Red | darker | |
| Emmy( R) | mauve-red with lighter border Yellow | Lighter | |
| Hamilton( P) | Yellow-eyed bouquet | Yellow | |
| Dagmar( P) | Yellow | Dark yellow | |
| Kossak( P) | Bright yellow | Bright yellow | |
| Laverock( P) | Laverock( P) | Canary yellow | Yellow |
| Maya( P) | Cream-yellow | Lighter | |
| Snipe( P) | Golden-yellow | Darker | |
| Fringed Golden | |||
| Apeldoorn( AS) | Yellow | Yellow | |
| Friedjed Elegance(CP) | Ivory or light cream color with a threadlike red border along the edges of the petals | Light cream | |
| Frosty Down( P) | Thick yellow with a creamy yellow fringe | Cream yellow |
| : :. .. | 1Shsh - | Paint of petals | t | Color fringe |
| Purple | ||||
| Bunting( P) | Reddish purple with a lighter border | Purple | ||
| Blue Heron( P) | Blue-violet | Lilac | ||
| IsisP) | Dark vinous-purple | Vinous-purple | ||
| Kanova( P) | Bluish-lilac with light lilac border | White | ||
| Liska( P) | Reddish-violet | Lighter, contrasting | ||
| Max Durand( P) | Lilac | Lilac | ||
| Paraboa( n) | Pink-purple with lightening outwards - late;C - medium;SP - medium-late;CP - q | eded | Purple | |
| Flowering period: P | is the first. |
garden in groups on lawns. This group includes the remaining 4 classes of tulips, namely: Class 12. Tulips Kaufman;Class 15. Tulips of Foster;Class 14 - Greig Tulips;Class 15 - Wild species.
The timing of the flowering of tulips varies depending on climatic conditions of cultivation, as well as on conditions of harsh or mild winter, early or late spring.
Varieties
I. Early-flowing tulips
Early non-basic or simple( 1) Dr. Plesman ( light orange-reddish), Bellona ( golden yellow), ibis ( pink), Epicut Beauty( pale pink salmon), Olga and Krelags Triumph ( carmine-red), Pink Trophy and Christmas Marvel ( bright pink), Princess Irene ( yellow-orange with divorce), Full( yellow), Charles ( bright red), Ruby Rea ( red), White Sail ( creamy white), Diane ( cream-white).
Early Terry( 2) Electra ( carmine), Peach Blossom ( dark pink), Monte Carlo ( greenish yellow), Oranje Nessau ( orange-red), Carlton ( bright red), Stockholm ( red).
II.Medium-light tulips
Class Triumph( 3) Red
Alberio iJustige Battle ( with white border), Paul Richter, Prominence, Orient Express, Kiss Non-fox ( with yellow border), Cassini, Fest Lady, Lucky Strike (with a creamy white border), Bing Crosby, Atom, Fidelio ( with orange border), Elmu s, Albury ( green bottom), Abu Hassan ( with yellow border), Tommy, Roland. Orange
Dutch Princess and Danton ( with yellow border), Lin van der Mark ( with a creamy white border), Hai Co-syeti. Pink
Golden Maggeren ( yellow edges), Grevel ( with white border), Weber, Lens hood, Driming Maid ( white edges), Pearles Pink, Emmy Peak, Prelude ( white bottom). White
Carrara, Garden Party ( with pink-red border), Pake, Blizzard, Athlete, White Virgin, Hibernia, Snow Star.
Darwin hybrids( 4) Red
Ad Rem, Apeldoorn, Diplomat, London, Oxford,
Oxford Elite, Parade, Scarborough ( with orange
border), Eric Hofsyu ( with yellow border).
Orange
Vivex, Königin Wilhelmina, Big Chef.
Yellow
Beauty of Apeldoorn, Golden Apeldoorn, Golden
Oxford, Wallow Dover.
Pink
Pink Impression, Elizabeth Arden, Aristocrat,
Fogotten Dreams ( with yellow border), Gordon Cooper.
White
Tender Beauty ( light pink edges), Ivory
Floridale, Judit Leister ( pink with red
border).
III.Late flowering tulips
Late non-fluffy or simple( 5) Reds and purples
Bacon, Dicke Feyvorit, Flange Datchman, Gander
Rapsodi, Farncombomb Sanders, Queen of Knight,
Campfire, Halco, Prince Charles, Gander, Moust
Miles, Demeter.
Pink and purple
Aristocrat, Blue Aymabl, Clara Butt, Pandion,
Roso Wings, Palestrina.
Yellow and Orange
Golden Havest, Orange Bouquet, Sweet Harmony,
Temple of Beauty.
White
Maureen.
Lily Color( 6) Red and Purple
Aladdin, Queen of Sheba ( with orange border),
Mateim, Red Shain, Dianito.
Yellow
Arcadia, West Point.
Pink
by China Pink, Jacqueline, Marietta.
White
White Triumphant.
Fragmented( 7) Swing Wings ( white), Exotic ( white with pink border), Maya ( creamy white), New Bow ( white), Crystal Beauty ( red with orange border), Burgundyceys ( Wine Red), Frindshat Alpendorn ( red).
Parrot( 10) Karel Durman ( red), Fire Breed ( red with green spots), Bode of Transfers ( red with orange edge), Black Perrot ( dark red), Blue Perrot (lilac), White Perrot ( white), Queen of Perrotts ( pink), Fantasy ( salmon-pink), Orende Favorit ( orange).
Late terry( 11)
Mount Tacoma ( white), Angelica and Eros ( pink), Orendj Triumph ( orange), Viroza ( Wine Red), Symphony ( cherry red).
Breeding, growing and care. Tulips reproduce vegetatively with the help of bulbs. Tulip bulbs, like most bulbous cultures, are divided by analysis. Analysis allows you to establish the quality of the bulb and the depth of planting.
Diameter of tulip bulbs according to parsing, cm
Darwin hybrids
Extra 4.1 and more
I 3,6-4
II 3-3,5
III 2,3-2,9
Lily-colored, Triumph, Unmature early, Non-masticlate, etc.
I 3,2 and more
II 2,5-3,1
III 2-2,4 Children 1,4-1,9
Tulips have a short period of vegetation: autumn root growth - during 4-5 weeks after planting and spring growth of the aerial part - within 10-12 weeks. During this short period the tulip not only grows and blossoms, but also forms a nest of new and rudiments of future bulbs. This explains the special demand of tulips for food and a high intake of nutrients. The site for growing tulips should be sunny, protected from cold winds. It is necessary that it be flat, without depressions, or with a slight slope for the drainage of meltwater.
For the cultivation of tulips, loamy nutrient soils are best suited. It is important that they are highly fertile with a neutral reaction and arable layer of at least 30 cm, as well as good physical properties: sufficient apagoemkosti, friability and air permeability. Very heavy soils are suitable only after applying a large amount of sand - 20 kg / m2 of peat, manure or other organic fertilizer.
Observations showed that on relatively dense, cultivated and fertilized soils, the tulips have well-colored flowers and more massive bulbs than on the soils.
The site must be well planned, drained, the subsoil layer is water-permeable, the groundwater level is not more than 60 cm. Neutral and slightly alkaline soils with a pH of 6.5-7.5 are most suitable for growing tulips, and acidic soils are unfavorable for them.
The precursor of tulips can be any vegetable or flower culture, except bulbous and solanaceous. Nematode and viral diseases of potatoes and tomatoes are transmitted to tulips.
The site for growing tulips needs to be changed annually. Return tulips to their original place can not be earlier than 3-4 years. Florists do not recommend planting tulips after gladioli, asters, onions and cucumbers. The soil on the site is prepared for 1-2 months before planting the bulbs, so that it has time to settle. Perekopku spend at a depth of 30 cm During digging, select the roots of perennial weeds, destroy pests, make the necessary doses of fertilizers for digging. Organic fertilizers, except fresh manure, are brought in spring in the year of planting tulips. Their doses depend on the fertility of the soil and range from 10 to 50 kg / m2.Fix fertilizers in the soil under the digging. Manure in fresh form is introduced into the soil of no earlier than than a year before planting.
Fertilizers that make a digging site for tulips per 1 m2
Well rebuilt manure or mature compost 2 buckets
Granulated chicken manure 200 g. Wood ash 200 g
Dolomite flour 500 g
Double superphosphate 50 g
Potassium sulphate 30 g
Nitrogenor ammonium nitrate at a rate of 30 g / m2 is made directly upon planting.
If mineral fertilizers are not brought under digging, then before planting it is better to use a complex mineral fertilizer at the rate of 100 g / m2.Nitrogen fertilizers are better to make or on the frozen top layer of soil in the autumn before mulching, or in the spring after thawing of snow. When introducing mineral fertilizers, it is important not to lose sight of the fact that the optimal ratio of sodium, phosphorus and potassium should be 1 1.5: 3.
Attention!
Under no circumstances should you use fresh manure for tulips: it can cause an outbreak of fungal diseases and the death of bulbs. Manure can be introduced only under the previous culture for 1-2 years before planting tulips.
As for feeding, tulips are very responsive to nitrogen. They need to be introduced in April-May, since it is during this period of time that nitrogen is absorbed by plants as much as possible. The best time for planting tulips is the second and third decades of September, when the soil temperature at a depth of 15 cm will drop to 9 ° C.At lower temperatures, the tulips do not take root.
To form a good root system, tulips need 30-40 days. When planting tulips in the Moscow region in the second half of September, they manage to take root well before the onset of a cold snap. Early-spring varieties are planted 1-2 weeks earlier than late-maturing varieties. Before planting, the bulbs of the tulips are carefully inspected. Healthy bulbs are etched in a 0.5% solution of potassium permanganate for 30-60 minutes. Because the bulbs quickly absorb moisture, they are planted immediately after pickling.
It is important to maintain the depth of the landing correctly. It depends on the size of the bulb in accordance with the analysis and on the type of soil on which the planting is performed. The depth of planting should be equal to 3 heights of the bulb. For large bulbs, this is up to 15 cm on the lungs and 2-3 cm smaller on heavy soils. Bulbs of the third parsing and counting babies are planted to a depth of 10 cm from the bottom of the bulb.
Depth of planting tulip bulbs, cm
Light soils Heavy soils Extra 18 15
I 15 12
II 12 10
Planting patterns can be different. The distances between the bulbs for the first analysis are 6-7 cm, not less than 2 bulb diameters, for smaller ones the distance is less. Depending on the volume and the scheme of planting, 1 to 2 m2 are planted from 20 to 40 onions of the first analysis. At the bottom of the hole, sand is poured a layer of 2-3 cm. The bulbs are placed on the sand by the bottom of the bottom.
When planting bulbs pressed into the bottom, but not much, and do not make circular movements, so as not to damage the rudiments of their roots. Then the bulbs are dusted with ashes, poured on all sides with sand and covered with soil from above. After planting in autumn, when the soil freezes to a depth of 2 cm at the end of October and beginning of November, the planting of the tulips is mulched with a peat layer 3-4 cm thick. This mulching prevents cracking of the soil, damage to the root system, and promotes the development of sturdy peduncles and large flowers. In the spring, thanks to mulching in the soil, moisture is better retained and the development of weeds slows down. In the spring, when the surface of the soil warms up to 5 ° C, adolescent tulips appear almost directly from under the snow and quickly go into growth. Mulching materials do not remove. In the period of growth and flowering and the simultaneous formation of daughter bulbs, it is very important to provide plants with water. During this period, intensive absorption of batteries. Plants should be sufficiently provided with moisture until the appearance of the first signs of the death of the aerial part. With a lack of moisture in arid periods, additional abundant watering is required.
For soil at the depth of the roots( 30 cm), an average of 50-60 l / m2 is needed. On light soils, moisture seeps into the lower layers more quickly, so they water more often, but with less water consumption than heavy ones.3 weeks after flowering, watering is stopped.
Tulips are strong consumers of nutrients, so they require the introduction of fertilizing during the growing season. The first application of mineral fertilizers with microelements is carried out in dry form through the snow when sprouts appear. In the first feeding, an increased dose of nitrogen promotes active growth of the leaves.
The second fertilizing with mineral fertilizer is carried out in the form of a solution during the budding period.
The third top dressing is also carried out as a solution during flowering or immediately after flowering and significantly reduces the nitrogen dose.
Feeding dose, g / m2
Nitrogen Phosphorus Potassium 1st fertilizing 15 5 8
2nd fertilizing 10 5 8
3rd fertilizing 5 5 8
When watering and applying liquid fertilizing, the
should not fall on the leaves of the tulips.
It should also be recalled the need for timely weeding and loosening of rows during the growing of tulips. It is recommended to always combine weeding with loosening and loosening every time after watering or rain. This is very important for maintaining moisture, improving air exchange and preventing growth of weeds. When the leaves of the tulips become brown and begin to dry out, and the covering scales of the bulbs become light brown, you can proceed to the extinction of the bulbs. Usually it happens in the period from the end of June to the middle of July. You can not wait for the leaves to dry completely, since the bulb nests will be scattered by this time and it will be very difficult to select individual bulbs from the ground.
Dug bulbs are stacked in boxes with mesh bottom in one layer and put
for drying under a canopy, in a shed. After drying, the bulbs are cleaned of old scales, roots, pieces of soil, the patients are culled and divided by parsing. Store bulbs in boxes or boxes in dry, well-ventilated areas. Tulips are cut in the bud budding phase carefully, so as not to damage nearby, non-flowering plants in the early morning or late evening, when the tone of the plants is the best. The cutting tool should be disinfected in order not to spread the virus diseases.
Diseases and pests. Gray mold or burn( botrytis), typhulosis, sclerotinia bulbous and tulip, penicillosis, fusariosis, bacterial decay of bulbs, tobacco necrosis virus, variegation, root onion mite, onion and tuberculate murmur, mucus. Physiological disorders in forcing: drooping of the upper part of the stem, the formation of blind buds.