How to install plastic windows with new technologies in mind
Have you decided to replace the old wooden windows with plastic ones? Of course, it's better to entrust this to professionals, since the installation of plastic windows carries a lot of nuances, when non-observance of which windows can not keep warm, be not sealed, it is difficult to close and fog. If you are sure that you will cope with this task, then we will talk about the nuances of installing PVC windows in this article.
content of the article:
- Organizational matters
- Metering plastic windows
- Dismantling of old windows and preparation of the opening
- installation of plastic windows
Organizational matters
advantage of self-installation of plastic windows is that you are making it much scrupulous than most installation teams who sinnon-compliance with GOST when installing windows. But again, we repeat that if you have never seen clearly and are not familiar with the process of installing plastic windows - order the installation from specialists.
When it is better to install plastic windows
Make the replacement of windows is best in the warm season, from May to September. Installation work in dry weather, in rainy weather, this is not recommended. Many are interested in the question: do plastic windows install in the winter? The installation of plastic windows in the winter can be done, but this is not recommended for a number of reasons. If you bought a new apartment and plan to move to it as soon as possible, or do repairs in the apartment you live in, then it's illogical to delay repairs, because of the windows, it's illogical to repair now and after six months to install the windows - it's even more illogical, because part of the donerepair will go wrong, and even leaving old windows, doing repairs - is wrong. Installation of windows in winter can be made at a temperature not lower than -5 degrees. In addition, it is also not recommended to install plastic windows in extremely hot weather. An important aspect in the replacement of windows is not only their installation, but also the correct measurement and the right choice.
Measurement of plastic windows
Before you go to buy a window, you need to measure the window opening, based on these sizes, make an order or buy a ready window. The advantage of ordering a window is that you will make a window for your dimensions, as for the purchase of finished windows, they are made according to standard dimensions, which do not always ideally fit into specific window openings.
So, the windows should be measured as follows. For starters, the window opening is measured from the inside by the width, from the base of the wall, so if you have slopes on the windows, you must dismantle them to make an accurate measurement. Then it is necessary to measure the height of the window opening, taking into account the type of window sill. If the house is paneled, then in such houses the sill is usually a part of the slab, so a new window will be installed on it, if the sill is removable, it is necessary to measure from the base of the slab itself. After this, you need to try to measure the depth of the window opening, for this, you may need to repel some of the plaster or remove the wooden bar from the side of the window.
As for the measurements from the outside, we first measure the width and height of the window aperture, then again you will need to repel part of the plaster or cement, so as to measure the depth of the opening between the window and the wall with a knife. If possible, also remove the reflux: check whether there is a fringing from the bottom of the window opening or the surface is solid.
As you can imagine, the window itself can not go into the window opening at any time, as it needs space to narrow and expand, depending on the temperature fluctuations. As for the gaps, their minimum size should be as follows:
- For windows up to 1m 20cm - indent 15mm;
- For windows up to 2m 20cm - 20mm;
- For windows up to 3m - 25mm.
When measuring, consider also the fact that the window itself should go into the window opening only a few centimeters, that is, from the edges of the double-glazed window and the leaf was not less than 4 cm, so that the glass unit was not in the wall, and you could normally make slopes. Having received the dimensions of the window and the so-called window edging, we take into account the indicated nuances and obtain the size of the window profile. After this, make the order for the manufacture of the window, or buy the finished one, and also order: a handle, a mosquito net( fasteners), a window sill and a tide.
Dismantling of the old window and preparation of the
opening When you have purchased the window and the weather is good on the street, we start work. Please note that all work will be very dusty, so either remove all things from the room, or cover them with a film. We begin work with the dismantling of old windows, for this use a hammer, mount and chisel. First it is necessary to remove the window leaf or the smaller leaf, after which a large leaf is dismantled. Then, using a hacksaw or electric jigsaw, you need to cut a baffle between the flaps in half and pull it out of the frame. Then we cut in half the part of the frame from the bottom, after which we make it further dismantling.
When the frame is dismantled, with a hammer and a chisel or with a perforator, we shoot down irregularities and make grooves on the sides, so that the window sill comes a little into the wall. Immediately before installing the plastic window you need to carefully clean the window opening from the debris and slightly moisten it. After that, go to the preparation of the window profile and to install it.
Installation of plastic windows
Before mounting the profile, you need to remove the doors and pull out the double-glazed windows from the deaf parts of the window. We remove the protective tape from the outer part of the profile and put the decorative caps in the drain holes. With the help of screws we fix fasteners for mosquito nets.
Thermal insulation profile
Many old sources do not mention this, but to date, the technology of installing plastic windows has changed slightly, one more item has been added to it: the insulation of the profile. These actions were included in the process of installing plastic windows due to the fact that most people, even with proper installation in compliance with all the rules, formed moisture( condensation) and fungus on the windows, as a result of which the profile froze. Due to this action, all the negative consequences that were observed earlier should not be manifested.
For a more tight and tight fit of the profile to the window opening, the perimeter of the profile from the outside is pasted with a vapor tight self-expanding sealing tape. Then lateral parts of the profile on all sides( closer to the inside of the window) are pasted with steam-insulating tapes based on butyl. On top, on the side part of the profile, you can glue the seal from the self-expanding tape, then, if necessary, a starting or expansion profile is attached. After the insulation work we proceed to the installation of the profile.
What to attach the plastic window to: mounting plates or anchor
There are two options for fixing the PVC windows during installation: on the anchor and on the plates. It is impossible to say specifically and unambiguously which of the two types of fastening is best, since each of them has its advantages and disadvantages. In view of the fact that the fastener is the most important component of the installation of a plastic window, and that this issue is interested in newcomers who want to install plastic windows with their own hands, then with your permission we will consider this issue in more detail.
So, first of all, when choosing the type of fastening of plastic windows, you need to be guided by the type of walls. That is, if you have a panel or brick house, then you are not limited in choosing the type of window fastening, if you want to install plastic windows in a new building or in a country house that are built of foam blocks or gas blocks,plate.
The biggest disadvantage of fastening the windows to the anchor is the so-called profile depressurization. As you know inside the profile there are several chambers that are separated from each other. Thanks to these cameras, the profile "holds" the temperature, because, for example, in winter the coldest camera is located on the outside of the window, and in each subsequent chamber the temperature is slightly higher. In the outermost chamber, which is located on the inside, the temperature is several degrees higher in winter than in the first chamber, due to this there is no temperature difference in the profile. In principle, the meaning is clear that thanks to this structure and the tightness of the chambers, they retain heat in the profile.
When the profile is fixed with anchors, it is drilled through and through, resulting in a depressurization of the chambers. Also fastening plastic windows to the anchor requires more time, precision and skill, so this is not the best option for fixing to beginners. If the profile is incorrectly fixed, it can lead, and if this happens, then the window by and large will be spoiled, since it is fraught with gaps between the double-glazed window and the profile and the loose closing of the window leaf. The advantage of fastening plastic windows with anchors is that the construction will be more durable, that is, strong winds will not cause the profile to vibrate, and the likelihood that the structure will strongly mount after installation is reduced.
As for attaching plastic windows to mounting plates, this is much easier, besides it will save a lot of time and cameras in the profile will not be depressurized, which is very important. The disadvantage of fastening the windows to the mounting plates can be called insufficient strength of the construction, that is, the window may slightly shake, but this will be insignificant. However, mounting plates are the easiest way to attach a plastic window to beginners.
Some installers use both types of fasteners when installing plastic windows. What kind of mounting windows to use - you decide. If you decide to fix the profile on the mounting plates, then attach them to the profile with self-tapping screws, if you decide to fix the profile using anchors - drill or perforator, then make holes in the profile.
From each corner at a distance of 120-150 mm the first fastening is made, then with subsequent steps of 700 mm the following fasteners are made. On each side there must be a minimum of 3 fasteners.
Profile fixing
Before placing the profile in the window opening, check the planes of all sides of the opening. After this, with the help of wooden blocks of hardwood or polymeric materials, we raise the profile and adjust it vertically. The vertical adjustment is made from the top of the window opening, that is, from the bottom you need to raise the profile with the help of the mentioned materials. Then align the profile horizontally. Pre-fix the profile in the window opening on the sides and on top with wooden blades. When the profile is leveled on all sides, examine it - is everything correct, and proceed to fix it.
To fix the profile on the mounting plates, use one nail-spike first. Then again, check the flatness of the profile using the level and then fix each mounting plate with the second dowel-nail. If you fix the window on the anchor, then through the holes made beforehand, with a perforator, make holes in the wall, screw the anchors, but do not tighten them, firstly check the level of the window with a level, and secondly tighten the anchor slowlyDo not disturb the geometry of the profile. When the profile is fixed, pull out the wooden blades from the sides and the upper part, the lower ones remain - they are the base of the profile.
Low tide
The next stage of the work is the installation of low tide. We measure the ebb and use metal scissors to adjust it to the desired dimensions. Then a vapor-proof tape is applied from the bottom of the frame, which will protect the seam between the wall and the bottom of the window, under the ebb. When the tape is glued, we apply a layer of mounting foam on top of it, and another layer on the edge of the plate to ensure the sealing and sound insulation of the low tide. The trough comes into the profile grooves and is fixed with special screws.
Jointing
Then, using a special mounting foam to install the windows, blow out the mounting seam between the wall and the profile: first on the left side, then on the right, then on the top. A feature of this mounting foam is the lack of expansion, which is very convenient for installation - the foam fills the slots, but does not inflate unnecessarily. Preliminary, the surface of the wall can be slightly moistened. After a few minutes, when the foam is a little dried and expanded, on top of it on the wall we paste the second part of the insulation tape.
Installing the shutters and double-glazed windows
Pre-release the protective tape from the inside of the window. When installing the double-glazed window, use special pads to evenly cover the opening. Then, using the slats, fix the double-glazed window, you can hammer the fixing slats into the grooves with a rubberized hammer. After installing the leaf and fixing it in the awnings, fix the handle and adjust the leaf itself vertically and horizontally. At the very end, a mosquito net is installed.
Window sill
Then go to the prefinal part - the installation of the window sill. Well we fill the bottom assembly seam and apply a vapor barrier tape over it. The next thing that needs to be done is to install wooden pads on which the sill will be laid. Pads should be at least 10cm in length. The level of the pads should be such that the sill is tightly pressed against the bottom of the profile. Another nuance - the windowsill should have a slope towards the room no more than 5 degrees. Note that the window sill should not close the battery, otherwise the heat from it will not spread to the window. Mount the window sill on the mounting plates is unnecessary, as well as on special clips: the method we proposed will ensure a strong and reliable fastening of the window sill. Check to see if the window sill is tight, then make it from below, preferably with a mounting foam that expands. At the end of this stage of work, place 5-liter bottles of water on the sill to fix it.
Video instruction for self-assembly of plastic windows
In order for you to clearly see the process of installing a plastic window, we recommend you to watch the videos below.
This video briefly tells you what to look for when installing plastic windows.
We also recommend to watch one more video, which describes in more detail the stages of installing plastic windows.