Formation of ridges

Formation of ridges in the garden is not necessary. Growing horticultural crops on a flat surface has a number of advantages: more fully utilized land, saves time for the construction of ridges, evaporates the magician less, you can grow more vegetables than on the ridges.

Ridges and ridges are advisable to use on moist, with close( less than 1 m) occurrence of groundwater, undrained areas and clay soils.

ridges and ridges made mainly on low, wet places where water stagnates in the spring, summer and autumn during heavy rains the soil pereuvlazhnyat. With this method, warming up, airing the soil and draining excess water are improved. For vegetable crops, the ridges are made with a width of 100-120 cm, a height of 20 cm in the lungs and 30 cm in heavy soils. The width of the tracks between the ridges is 30-40 cm, the length is arbitrary. Ridges are formed in spring, shortly before planting or sowing, but in order to obtain early production of vegetable crops, ridges are arranged in autumn and sowing is carried out on frozen soil.

It is better to have ridges from the south to the north, this is especially important when growing cucumber, tomato and other thermophilic vegetable crops. Rows for cold-resistant vegetable and green crops are located in any direction. On the slopes, it is necessary to locate ridges on the south side and guide them across the slope.

The combs are cut with a shovel after digging the soil at a distance of 60-70 cm from each other. On the ridges the rows are located mainly perpendicular to their direction, on the ridges - longitudinally. On the ridges it is better to sow the seeds, on the ridges to plant the seedlings. Ridge podzimnego recommended for planting vegetables( carrot, parsley, etc.), Cut them in autumn, after digging the soil, they will be exempt from the snow in the spring, it is better warmed, so plants in the furrows begin to vegetate before. Ridges and ridges are also used on soils with a shallow( up to 15 cm) fertile layer. When nanizke ridges and ridges fertile layer is increased due to the soil and taken out of the sulci nut further ridge after forming the primary way care is loosening the soil, which should be carried out after each irrigation and rain, thus reducing the glaze and obstruct the growth of weeds. The ridges are loosened to a shallow depth near the

of the soil surface, thereby creating a loosened layer of soil in which the soil capillaries are destroyed.

100-120 cm

The ridge makes a width of 100 - 120 cm, wider ridges are inconvenient in processing. The height, depending on the type of soil, is 20-30 cm. The soil taken out of the furrows is poured into the ridge. Distance 35 therebetween - 40 cm

crests placed at a distance of 60-70 cm from each other, their volume embankment due to the earth from the selected groove. Slope crest should be 45-50 °

ridges and ridges made on soils with little arable layer and on raw areas positioning them across a slope, and on the flat surface - from the southeast to the northwest, for thermophilic cultures - northSouth. The height of the ridges depends on the soil, on the wet and heavy - up to 20-25 cm At the same time we must remember that the ridges and ridges, especially on the edges, quickly dry up in the dry season..On light soils the ridges are made with gentle edges, on heavy soils - with steep edges.

High bed

A special form of the ridge is a stationary high strengthened bed. In addition to the already mentioned advantages of the ridges, the strengthened bed has high strength, since its side walls are made of wood, asbestos board or other material, which prevents flushing and soil slumping. In addition, high beds are very convenient to process, as all operations can be performed without bending low to the ground and not kneeling.

However, the construction of a high bed requires time, labor and certain material costs. The design should be sufficiently stable, so do not save on materials. The frame of a high bed can be made of bricks, wood, slabs, some use slate.

Wooden planks 4-5 cm thick, sawn lengthwise round timber, wooden beams are quite suitable for the walls of the bed.

Wood materials require treatment with special sealing compounds, which prevent decay and decomposition of wood and protect it from a bug. To ensure that the walls of the walls are not bent outwards under the pressure of the earth, they are reinforced with vertical slats, stuffing on the outside, or tie the frame with a strong wire. The inner side of the walls of the frame is recommended to cover with an oilcloth, a dense polyethylene film or roofing material, so that water does not leak through the cracks of the frame and does not wash the ground.

At the bottom of the bed should be laid metal wire mesh as a protection against mice and voles. The optimal width for a high bed is 100-120 cm. It is not recommended to do more because it will otherwise be difficult to care for the surface of the bed. The length is determined by the available filler material. The favorable height of the bed for convenience of processing is 75-90 cm, depending on the individual growth of the person. Before installing the frame of the bed, you should select the ground to a depth of 40 cm and lining the bottom with a metal wire mesh, lay the top layer of fertile soil aside: it will serve to fill the top layer of the bed.

All filling waste from the garden and household waste, which are also used for composting, are used as filling material for the bed. The lower layer consists of large wood residues, for example, twigs and branches left after pruning. They create a peculiar drainage and a ventilated layer due to the large cavities between the fragments.

structure of a high bed of

The frame of a high bed can be made of wooden boards, timber, sawn timber, bricks, concrete blocks, asbestos board or other durable and practical material. Its inner side must be covered with waterproof material such as a dense film or roofing material, and the bottom should be laid 9632;gt;gt;9632; 9632;9632; .9632; with a metal net.9632;: 9632; 9632; 9632; 9632; 9632; 9632; 9632; 9632; 9632. In the prepared frame, fill the material with layers.

1. Wooden frame of a high bed.

2. The inner side of the frame is covered with film.

3. The metal wire mesh is laid on the bottom of the prepared platform for the frame.

4. Large wood waste: branches, twigs, brushwood.

5. Layer of newspaper, cardboard or other cellulose waste.

6. Small wood waste: sawdust, shavings.

7. Vegetable waste, sod.

8. Immature compost or peat.

9. Fertile garden soil, fertilized with ripe compost

On top, you can lay a layer of newspapers, cardboard and other decayable cellulose residues, then a layer of small wood waste such as bark, shavings, sawdust. The next layer should be laid various vegetable waste in the same way as it does when laying the compost. As a plant waste, you can use pieces of turf removed during the construction of the bed frame, the turf is laid up with soil. Above lay a layer of peat or unripe compost, you can replace it with dry foliage. In the layer of plant residues, it is possible to add non-molted litter manure to stimulate their decomposition. The top layer consists of the previously removed garden soil and mature compost. It should be thick enough, since the roots of plants should not grow into the lower rotting layer. To seal the filler material and to better bond the layered garden waste, it is desirable to pour the layers with earth and sand and constantly water abundantly to ensure that the soil moisture contacts the surface. Nutrients released naturally in the decomposition of waste make the high bed ideal for growing vegetable crops that are strong consumers of nutrients.

The fertilizing effect of high-bed organic material is especially strong in the first 2 years, so at this time it is not necessary to grow vegetables that have the property of accumulating nitrates in their tissues. During the next 2-3 years, a high bed does not need additional fertilization.

The structure of the hillock bed

The same filling material is used for laying a hill bed, as in the construction of a high bed, which is laid in rows, evenly wetting. On the edges along the beds make a path of tiles to facilitate the approach to the bed and its processing.

1. Wire metal mesh fits in the bed of the bed.

2. The core of the mound from brushwood, twigs, branches.

3. A layer of small wood waste.

4. Layer of plant residues and turf.

5. Immature compost, peat, pressed foliage or straw with manure additive.

6. Fertile soil

It should be noted that when cultivating crops on a high bed, their water requirement is significantly higher than when grown on a regular flat bed. In subsequent years, a top layer of fertile soil is required to be poured.

The use of high beds in experimental farms showed that they give a significant increase in the yield of crops grown on them. Perhaps this is due to a longer period of cultivation, since the heat generated by decay of waste creates conditions for earlier plant entry during the vegetative period and its later completion.

Climbing bed

Another kind of ridge is a hillock bed. Outwardly it looks like an earthen mound, the middle part of which is raised about 80 cm, and to the edges its height smoothly comes to naught. Inside the bed has a rather complex structure, similar to the structure of a high bed. Do it as follows. Measure the area of ​​arbitrary length, with a width of 1.9 m, remove the sod and lay aside. In the measured area, prepare a bed, choosing the land to a depth of 25-30 cm, its bottom is lined with a thin metal net to protect it from mice and moles. Along the middle line of the bed is a mound that has a layered structure. The filling materials for it, as well as for the high bed, are rough and fine wood waste, vestiges, unripe compost, dry foliage, etc.

The core of the bed is a mound of brushwood, twigs, branches, coarse stems of plants, which are laid in the center of the bed and make a width of 60 cm and a height of 40-45 cm. Between the mound and long sides leave a space of 60 cm width, the same distance should remainto the front of the bed. Top of the large wood waste is laid a layer of plant remains and sodnite with a thickness of at least 20 cm. The next layer of 15 cm should consist of unripe compost, peat or densely compacted foliage of trees. The foliage can be replaced with straw and mixed with the manure. The top layer is filled with garden soil mixed with mature compost, 15-20 cm thick.

All layers of the bed should be moderately, but not excessively moistened. The proper degree of moistening is checked as follows: if you take a handful of moist earth or other material that makes up the bed and squeeze it hard, then the water will not leak and drip through your fingers. The hillock bed is a sort of compost pile in which gradual decay and transformation into humus of its constituent organic components takes place.

The hillock bed is laid in autumn so that it will settle over the winter. In early spring, when snow still lies, it is covered with a film for faster warming up and thawing of the upper soil layer. For the winter, the bed is covered with a thick layer of organic mulch. The service life of the bed is 5-6 years. During this time, a layer of leaves, plant debris and wood core rot. The bed settles and in its place a layer of fertile soil, 35 cm thick, is enriched with humus.

Advantages of the hillock bed

The hill bed has its advantages: the

loose wood core ensures good ventilation of the lower layers of the bed. This is favorable for the growth of roots and the development of the soil microenvironment on which the rate of decomposition of organic matter depends;

due to intensive decomposition processes, the soil temperature on the bed in the first year of its laying is 5-8 ° C above the ambient temperature. This allows early in the spring to sow on it thermophilic crops, which would earlier enter the period of active vegetation;

on the hollowed down sides of the garden bed the plants shade less than on a flat surface, so you can do more dense planting on the hilly beds. On the slopes of the bed, located from the north to the south, the plants will be evenly illuminated by the sun;

in case of heavy rains, water does not stagnate on the surface of the bed, but seeps and accumulates in the inner layers, whence it is then extracted by plant roots;

a hillock bed contains a large supply of nutrients enclosed in the plant remains of the plant and gradually released when rotting, passing into a form that is accessible to plants. Therefore, the hillock bed can withstand the continuous cultivation of vegetable crops from early spring to late autumn and provide food for even the most demanding crops.

The selection and placement of cultivated crops varies from year to year, depending on the age of the bed. In the first year on the hillock can not plant crops that are prone to the accumulation of nitrates. This is due to the fact that in the first year the process of decomposition of organic matter is most intense, and a large amount of nitrogen is released into the soil, which is assimilated by plants in the form of nitrates. Therefore, in the first year it is not recommended to plant leaf and cabbage salads, cabbage, spinach, chard, beets, radish. It is better to place some quick-ripening culture, and after harvesting it, plant cucumbers, pumpkin, zucchini. In the second and third year, the soil on the bed is the most fertile, so it occupies demanding crops. In the second year it is recommended to grow cabbage kohlrabi, early potatoes, cauliflower or tomatoes. On the third - early cabbage, carrots, celery, pepper or eggplant. In the fourth year, you can, without fear of nitrates, sow salad and green cultures: lettuce, spinach, radish, parsley. The middle row is assigned to cucumbers, pumpkin, zucchini. After

On the hollow descents of the hillock beds, the plants shade each other much less than on the flat surface of the site, so it is possible to use denser plantings of a variety of

crops of the fourth year, when the supply of nutrients begins to be depleted, the beds are covered in the spring with a layer of compost 2-3 cm thickFor the fifth and sixth years, legume crops( beans, beans, peas) that are undemanding to nitrogen nutrition will grow here. In 6 years this bed will serve its term and it is necessary to make a new bed in another place.