Building a pattern of the base of the dress: Italian technique as the easiest way to make a good pattern.

A stylish fitted dress the case must be present in every woman's wardrobe. Depending on the material selected, this part of the wardrobe can become both an attribute of a business wardrobe, or a dress for an exit.

It is sewn according to the basic pattern of the dress. Building a pattern of the dress base is an important stage in the study of designing clothes. This process requires care and consistency of action, so I suggest watching a video about building a pattern of the base of the dress.

Video lesson:

Preparation for cutting

By the way, there are several ways to build a basic pattern. Today I would like to share with you the secret of building patterns on the Italian technique.

Before , how to build a pattern dresses case, you need to remove the necessary measurements for work. The required measures with the finished values ​​are given in the table for the sample. In the field "Value" it is necessary to enter your own dimensions:

To avoid inaccuracy in the removal of measurements, I also attach a table of standard measures that are used in the Italian system of cuts. It can be downloaded free of charge under the link:

Italian-Base.rar [10,8 Kb]

The system for taking measurements is no different from the standard rules. The Italian method of construction allows you to achieve an adjacent silhouette.

Also for work you will need a table for the free fit, which is given on the photo:

Comment: for the dress we need the value of the increments 1 degree.

Constructing the pattern

So, the construction of the pattern begins with the setting of point A in the upper left corner of the sheet. Further from this point, we lay down the segment calculated according to the formula: Size / 24 + 0.2cm. We put the volume B. This distance will be equal to the depth of the neckline on the back.

Then again from Comrade A down we retreat to 4.5cm and put T. B1.

After this, we find the depth of the armhole and the position of m. C, ie, from m. A downwards we must postpone the segment equal to Growth / 8 + Size / 24.

Next we find the location of T. D is the value of the TPA, which we also put down from A.

Now, from the resulting T. D, we postpone the value of the WB measure and get that, E.

We find the last point F,equal to the DP measure.

Now mark the line of the neck. To do this, from T to the right we draw a segment that is equal to the dimension / 6.We put the comrade G.

Again from t. To the right we draw a line on which we mark the so-called H. Distance AH = W / 2

Let us go to the right of C. We plot to the right of it the line on which we find the position of m. The segment CC1 = OG / 4 + 1/4 increase in freedom of clinging( PCP).

Now from item D also to the right we postpone t. D1, which finds at a distance equal to OT / 4 + 3cm( dart) + 1/4 PSI.

We find the position of T. E1, for this, to the right of E, we plot the segment, which is equal to the value OB / 4 + 1/4 of the PSS.

The point F1 is at the same distance from m. F, as well as m. E1 from m. E, ie E11 = FF1.

We connect the points C1, D1, E1 and F1 by a smooth line. We have a side seam line. We draw the line from below. At the intersection with the segment CC1, we get m. I. At a distance of 4.5 cm from the so-called H on the same line we put m. L. We connect the points L and B1:

Extend the line B1L to the right. We find the position of T. L1 on it. Distance B1L1 is equal to W / 2.We join m. G and so on. L1.

From t. I measure 5 cm along the HI line, to the right 0.3 cm. We obtain a smooth curve for com. M. Chertim, connecting m. L1, m. M, and so on. C1.This is the armhole line. From the volume L1 along the armhole line we measure downwards 9cm. We put a notch, which will be a control mark for embossing the sleeve.

We now turn to the construction of a dart. To do this, we find the position of r. R by dividing DD1 in half. From the resulting point up and down we draw a perpendicular line. From the point of intersection with CC1, we drop downwards by 2 cm and put R1.Down from m. R we drop by 14 cm and get m. R2.On the line DD1 we postpone the segments RR3 = RR4 = 1.5 cm. By a straight line we connect m. R1, that is, R3, that is, R2, that is, R4.

Patterns of the backrest ready:

We begin the construction of the front halves of the dress. Again, we put T. A, from which we postpone the value of Growth / 8 + Size / 24.Have received t. S. This is the depth of the armhole.

The segment AD is equal to the value of the TPA, the segment DA1 is equal to the value of the accident.

We get T. B, setting aside from A1 down the value of Size / 6 + 1cm.

We find the position of the vol. G. It is at a distance equal to Size / 6, to the left of t. A1.From the corner GA1B we draw a bisectrix. We find the position of B1 on the bisector. A1B1 = Size / 6 + 0.5cm. Draw the line of the neck by connecting the G, T. B1, T. B.

From the D along the line AD downward, we postpone the value of the measure WB and set the t. E. Then we find the position of t. F. AF = DP.

Continue the straight line A1G to the left and put on it the N. N. The distance A1H is equal to W / 2-1cm.

To the left of t. C at a distance that is equal to OG / 4 + 1/4 PSO, set t. C1.

From t D to the left, we postpone T. D1, which is at the distance of the segment, which is equal to OT / 4 + 3cm( dart) + 1/4 PSI.

ЕЕ1 = ОБ / 4 + 1/4 ПСО

ЕЕ1 = FF1

Using a smooth line, connect the found points and obtain the line of the lateral seam:

From the bottom, we draw a straight line. At the point of intersection with CC1 we put m. I. At a distance of 7.5 cm from H we put L.

From L to the left we draw a straight line. We find the position of m. L1.To do this, in the backboard drawing, we measure the segment GL1 and in the drawing transfer from T. G postpone the same value of the segment to the intersection with the line drawn from L. L.

The segment A1N is equal to the value of the SH measure. To the left of m. N we put m. N, which is at a distance UT / 2.

On the line GL1 we put t. G1, descending from t. G downwards by a distance equal to the size / 10 + 0.5 cm.

We draw a perpendicular line to the segment GL1 and put G2 at a distance of 1.6 cm from G1.

We draw a line between G2 and so on N1.Up from m. N1 we retreat 7,5 cm and put t. N2.From this point, we draw a perpendicular to the straight line G2N1 2cm long.

We measure the length of a segment G2N1 and draw a line of the same length from N1 so that it passes through the extreme point of the perpendicular. At the end we put t. G3.

In the backboard drawing, measure the value of the segment GL1 and draw a straight line from the point G in the drawing of the same length transmission, with this line passing through G2 and G3.At the end of the line we put m. L2.The line between G2 and so on G3 is erased.

We find the position of M on the segment IH.For this, we retreat upward from t. I by 5 cm. T. M1 is from the M on the left at a distance of 2 cm.

Now we draw a smooth line between C1, M1, that is, L2.This is the armhole line. From volume L2 we drop downwards on 9см and we put a label for hooking of a sleeve:

We pass to construction of a dart. To do this, we find the position of r on the segment DD1.DR = NN1.From the point R up and down we draw a straight line. On the N1R line from N1 down we retreat 2cm and put R1.

T. R2 is 10cm below from the R. R.

RR3 = RR4 = 1.5cm.

We connect the points R1, R4, R2, R3 and obtain a dash.

Pattern is ready.

In my opinion, this is the most understandable way to build a pattern. But it is worth considering that for different types of figures there are nuances. So, for example, when constructing a pattern for a children's dress, you should exclude the construction of darts on the drawing. And for women of large sizes it will be necessary to make other increases in freedom of clinging. Also a popular technique is to build a drawing on a muller.

Based on the basic pattern of women's dresses, by simple modeling methods, you can achieve completely different styles of dresses.

It is also possible to carry out manipulations with the sleeve production. So, for example, from a traditional dress the case can be got a fashionable summer dress with a one-piece sleeve:

This model of dress is very suitable for full women, hiding the shortcomings of the figure:

Using the skills of building the basic pattern, you can sew a light summer dress for the girl.

Another popular method is to build a pattern on the Zlachevsky. Using her technique, when drawing a drawing, all the individual features of the figure are taken into account. This method is considered the most accurate, excluding the subsequent adaptation of the product.

For beginners it will be useful to learn the classical method of constructing the basic pattern of dress and vtatchnoy sleeve. Moving from simple to complex, in the future you will be able to learn how to model products with a raglan sleeve and even top clothes on a lining.